From neutral to first gear needs a little help

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I have fairly recently cleaned my clutch plates and my clutch is adjusted properly but at a stoplight when I put it in neutral, it doesn't shift back into first gear very well. When I shift it into first from neutral , about half of the time it has not gone into first so I will do it again and it usually takes. While moving it goes through the gears fine in either direction. It also shifts pretty easily into neutral. It is not a huge problem but I thought someone might know of a fix.
 
I would first take the gearbox inspection cover off and look at the position of the clutch rod. Is it too low?
It could well not be set properly and not allowing full disengagement of the clutch, this would be a good symptom
of the difficulty moving easily between first and neutral. Check the manual for correct procedure to set this.
Second, you probably already have checked this, but the primary chain cannot be too right, check free play again?
Overall, something is not allowing full disengagement of the clutch?
good luck and please let us know
 
A tight primary can cause your problem, It loads up the sleeve gear bushes.

Cash
 
Yellow_Cad said:
I have fairly recently cleaned my clutch plates and my clutch is adjusted properly

Did you check for wear on the clutch centre splines?

I recently changed my own MkIII's clutch centre, which certainly improved 1st gear selection.

The amount of wear can be seen clearly on the old centre.
From neutral to first gear needs a little help
 
highdesert, I'm not sure what you mean when you say that the clutch rod could be too low.

Thanks but my primary chain is adjusted fine.

Les, the last time I was in my clutch, my clutch center had some wear but I don't believe it was quite like yours. I will change this next time I am in there though. Were there any other improvements with the new clutch center or was shifting into first the only improvement?

Thanks for the help guys.
 
Yellow_Cad said:
Were there any other improvements with the new clutch center or was shifting into first the only improvement?



I noticed that if my Commando had not been started for a while, then the clutch would often drag, and the initial selection of 1st gear would result in a stalled engine-unless the revs were kept up. Often the box would slip back into neutral from 1st before I had ridden to the end of my driveway, after re-selecting 1st and pulling away there would be no further problems. Fitting a new centre does seem to have reduced the initial clutch dragging after start up, and it hasn't jumped out of 1st since then.
 
Leaving my inspection covers off the primary to keep my belt drive cooler, I found that when ridden in the rain and left for a day or two, the clutch plates were welded together with rust. I had to strip the clutch and clean everything up. Nobody's ever mentioned this before or doesn't anyone ride their Commandos in the rain? I'm just going to run the belt a bit looser and keep the inspection caps fitted.
 
Yes,

But I have the new style sealed primary cover with a chain running in actual oil. Although it weighs much more than the belt primary it also has the advantage of rarely breaking. These models are said to last over 40 years if they remain sealed and oil covered. The clutch does not rust, indeed sometimes it is over lubricated!
I highly recommend these primary chain conversions to everyone I meet, I'm just a high tech kind of guy.
 
Hi YC,
Two little tricks that I use are: 1. Before starting I pull the clutch lever and kick it through to break the clutch plates loose (only takes a little prod since the primary belt conversion), and 2. When engaging 1st gear hold upward toe pressure as you begin to let out the clutch, if it has not fully engaged it will then easily and completely slide the rest of the way in.

GB
 
Fullauto said:
Leaving my inspection covers off the primary to keep my belt drive cooler, I found that when ridden in the rain and left for a day or two, the clutch plates were welded together with rust. I had to strip the clutch and clean everything up. Nobody's ever mentioned this before or doesn't anyone ride their Commandos in the rain? I'm just going to run the belt a bit looser and keep the inspection caps fitted.

Isn't the trick to use the Sure flex plates?
 
Hi Cookie
Very funny....primary chain conversions running in oil :lol:
I don't agree tho', No clutch I know of is better running in oil. That is a nessesarry evil due to lube being required for other components.
I have a belt drive running dry with sureflex plates and a new hub centre and I have no problems at all in anyway, plus a super light clutch.
I don't like the idea of running without inspection covers for cooling, the rain does come in, and it doesn't look good. On the Commando I have cut a 'hole' in the backplate just under the central mounting bolt, and covered with mesh. This seems to avoid rain pouring in, and you cant tell the difference from the outside, so it looks good.
On my Triton I have a ali cover which is completely open so I can remove the plates every now and again dead easy...on
I do ride in the rain.....I live in the north of England....it rains here ALL the time!!

I know Yellowcad says all is adjusted properly, but this problem happened after cleaning the plates.....so what changed?
Were some plates warped and then put back in a different position? Did two steel ones go together instead of alternate?
Loosen off the cable and make sure you have just a touch of play in the rod adjuster and try again?
I suspect slightly warped plates being put back in a different angular configuration.

Stu.
 
Just for chuckles Stu I hope you recall that Goldwing cluthes run in oil and usually last at least 100,000 miles. I think the issue might be the term "properly engineered". Sometimes it is a bit hard to apply that term to certain of the Norton's componants.
 
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