Four position Ignition Switch (2011)

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The ignition switch on my 1972 is unreliable: erratic starting, engine cuts out momentarily when switching from pilot lights to head lights,etc. This is one of the four position switches. Not to be cofused witht the two position switch on my 1968, or the three position swtich on my 1971.

I never liked the four position switches: too many positions, too much opportunity for wear, especially when they are flying around on the end of the flimsy vibrating switch bracket.

I see from the archives that some people open up the switches and repair them. Other suggestions are to buy a new switch, but the replacements often appear to be no better.

I have a couple of three position switches in nice crisp condition, and am thinking of installing one on my 1972. This would mean changing the switch in headlight shell from a two to a three position switch . And maybe modifying the wiring harness.
How tough will it be to make this work? The cloth harness is in pefect condition and I don't want to bodge it.
Or is there a source of good quality four position switches?

Stephen Hill
Victoria, BC
 
I think it was replaced in the frameoff restoration. So not original, but a quality repro in pefect condition. The kind you don't want to take a box cutter to.

Stephen Hill
 
A new 4 position switch here in Edmonton is less than $70 CAD. I would try a new one before I bastardized my harness.
 
Is that for both the key half and the electrical half? Seems they often come in "halfs".

Were you referring to Motoparts in Edmonton? I checked out their website, and see they list:
39130552 sw,ign,4pos,4contact,bare (149SA)

Which sounds like half a switch, presumably the electrical side.
Any info on the one you referred to?

Stephen Hill
 
Here's a fix for the switch..... better than new! I've done 3 and can do it less than 1/2 hr.

Removed broken link


JD
 
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batrider said:
Cloth harness on a '72? Strange.


War Surplus ; left over from Sopwith Camels . :D

Old Morrises & Austins if theres any in the local paddocks have compatable electrical pieces , or pieces of pieces .
If you like pulling things to bits , or wish to practise first .
 
Does anyone use the "park" position on the 4-position switch? I've had one of these switches fail on me also, but had a NOS one in my spares box, so haven't tried the repair on the old one yet. (It's still in the box for when I have the time to fool with it.)

It did start me thinking about the cheap 3-position switches that look to be more robust than the Lucas one. If it has off-on-accessory, why not wire the lights to accessory and take a jumper from accessory to "on". It would mean that straight up is "off" and clockwise is "on" and counterclockwise is "on with lights". What am I missing?
 
In the US the park function is not legally required, but is useful for when you need to stop along the road at night to pee.
 
good site and thanks for the link... word of warning... be very careful when sanding epoxy glues.. the dust is a major health hazard
 
good site and thanks for the link... word of warning... be very careful when sanding epoxy glues.. the dust is a major health hazard


Agreed, thanks Charlie and oldmikew.

Perhaps it would be better to epoxy the two fibre plates together then fill the recess around the contacts with JB weld or similar?

While we are on the subject of ignition switches, I'd really like to mount mine between the clocks as I hate fiddling around trying to get the key in it's existing location. As I can't get to my bike at the moment, could anybody tell the diameter of the threaded portion of the switch and the width across the flats please?


Cheers,

cliffa
 
I purchased the Emgo version of the 4 position switch...it came with lock cylinder and two keys but is fully compatible with oem lock cylinder...so I swapped it giving same key function for steering lock & ignition. This repro switch is $29 CDN from Walridge in ON. I had attempted to try a local auto parts store ignition switch but the neck would not fit the Norton bracket and I didn't want to drill/file the bracket to suit it.
Oh, and before that I had attempted refurb'ing the 45 yrs old original using the technique described on these forums....but taking it apart, the "bakelite"? backing plates cracked up and I gave up trying to save it (I am pretty good with epoxy repairs generally...I own/service a sail boat ;-) Not worth my bother on this switch at the low cost price.
 
The ignition switch on my 1972 is unreliable: erratic starting, engine cuts out momentarily when switching from pilot lights to head lights,etc. This is one of the four position switches. Not to be cofused witht the two position switch on my 1968, or the three position swtich on my 1971.

I never liked the four position switches: too many positions, too much opportunity for wear, especially when they are flying around on the end of the flimsy vibrating switch bracket.

I see from the archives that some people open up the switches and repair them. Other suggestions are to buy a new switch, but the replacements often appear to be no better.

I have a couple of three position switches in nice crisp condition, and am thinking of installing one on my 1972. This would mean changing the switch in headlight shell from a two to a three position switch . And maybe modifying the wiring harness.
How tough will it be to make this work? The cloth harness is in pefect condition and I don't want to bodge it.
Or is there a source of good quality four position switches?

Stephen Hill
Victoria, BC

Stephen, the barrel with the key is removable, so you only need a replacement switch body.
 
I purchased the Emgo version of the 4 position switch...it came with lock cylinder and two keys but is fully compatible with oem lock cylinder...so I swapped it giving same key function for steering lock & ignition. This repro switch is $29 CDN from Walridge in ON. I had attempted to try a local auto parts store ignition switch but the neck would not fit the Norton bracket and I didn't want to drill/file the bracket to suit it.
Oh, and before that I had attempted refurb'ing the 45 yrs old original using the technique described on these forums....but taking it apart, the "bakelite"? backing plates cracked up and I gave up trying to save it (I am pretty good with epoxy repairs generally...I own/service a sail boat ;-) Not worth my bother on this switch at the low cost price.


Tornado; what was the Walridge part # for the emgo switch body? i had to replace a switch recently and the one sold by motoparts looked like the 45yr old part it replaced and came in a lucas box.
 
Agreed, thanks Charlie and oldmikew.

Perhaps it would be better to epoxy the two fibre plates together then fill the recess around the contacts with JB weld or similar?
While we are on the subject of ignition switches, I'd really like to mount mine between the clocks as I hate fiddling around trying to get the key in it's existing location. As I can't get to my bike at the moment, could anybody tell the diameter of the threaded portion of the switch and the width across the flats please?
Cheers,
cliffa

OldMikeW & Cliffa,
Thanks for the "heads up" regarding epoxy dust. Is JB Weld conductive? If it is, probably not the best idea to have near electrical contacts. Why not install a Mk 3 ignition switch/warning lamp console to your upper fork yoke? Or fabricate a plate similar to it? Whatever you do, please post a photo of the finished product here for us to see [steal & copy ;)]?

Charlie
 
Tornado; what was the Walridge part # for the emgo switch body? i had to replace a switch recently and the one sold by motoparts looked like the 45yr old part it replaced and came in a lucas box.

From my order receipt:

Part Code: 39784E
Description: IGNITION SWITCH*
Price: $29.95

The "E" in the code is for the Emgo version....drop it for the Lucas but it runs more like $55 CDN with lock tumbler....I think you can get it without for less.
 
I bought a $40 repop switch and it took a shit in short order. I replaced it with a Genuine Lucas 4-position switch ($80!) and now after a year it's f#%$ing up too. I'm gonna rip it out and replace it with a gd toggle switch and a hidden safety switch. Gotta have lights on always anyway, so what do I need with anything other than "ON" and "OFF"?
 
I bought a $40 repop switch and it took a shit in short order. I replaced it with a Genuine Lucas 4-position switch ($80!) and now after a year it's f#%$ing up too. I'm gonna rip it out and replace it with a gd toggle switch and a hidden safety switch. Gotta have lights on always anyway, so what do I need with anything other than "ON" and "OFF"?

If your battery is low, that extra electrical draw having the lights on may prevent the engine from starting. Always have a way to power the coils and NOT the lights. This is an absolute if you want your Mk 3 starter to work! :cool:
 
OldMikeW & Cliffa,
Thanks for the "heads up" regarding epoxy dust. Is JB Weld conductive? If it is, probably not the best idea to have near electrical contacts. Why not install a Mk 3 ignition switch/warning lamp console to your upper fork yoke? Or fabricate a plate similar to it? Whatever you do, please post a photo of the finished product here for us to see [steal & copy ;)]?

Charlie
Will do Charlie.

Can anybody help me with my request for the switch or hole dimensions please?

Cheers,

cliffa
 
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