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So... how are you suppose to secure the top of the gaiters?
Fork Gaiters
- Thread starter swooshdave
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So... how are you suppose to secure the top of the gaiters?
You are not going to secure those,as you have bought the wrong ones,they look like Triumph/BSA.Go out out and buy a pair of Genuine Andover Norton Commnado gaiters.The bottom section can be a bit hard to get over the alloy sliders.
I use 8mm narrow stainless hose clamps on the botttom and black cable ties on the top.
Fit them,forks protected,problem solved,end of story
Go for a ride.
Brett
I use 8mm narrow stainless hose clamps on the botttom and black cable ties on the top.
Fit them,forks protected,problem solved,end of story
Go for a ride.
Brett
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Thanks! I had no idea where the gaiters came from but I think they are marked Made in Great Britain.
Not looking to drop the front end again. :|
Not looking to drop the front end again. :|
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have to be a hell of a tie wrap on the top to make 'em look/fit right
Onder said:
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You're gonna have to be at least 10% less lazy in this case :shock: :mrgreen:
You could cut a V-shaped portion out of the top of the gaiter and have it seal, but it doesn't look like it seals at the bottom either. It should be a stretched fit at both ends. The correct gaiters are not that much (~$20) and will function correctly.
I guess you could also wrap something like bicycle handlebar tape around the fork tube enough to take up the gap, but it looks like you'd need a 1/2" thick layer!
You could cut a V-shaped portion out of the top of the gaiter and have it seal, but it doesn't look like it seals at the bottom either. It should be a stretched fit at both ends. The correct gaiters are not that much (~$20) and will function correctly.
I guess you could also wrap something like bicycle handlebar tape around the fork tube enough to take up the gap, but it looks like you'd need a 1/2" thick layer!
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The bottom fits great. Top? Not so much. I'll cinch it down good for now and tear it apart later. Unless I get a dose of good sense and do it now.
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manx850 said:
They don't look long enough, and don't have enough pleats to be the early Fastback 020463 type.
http://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/long-for ... r_2329.htm
They look more like the BSA/Triumph 97-4635 gaiters to me.
http://en.vintage-motorcycle.com/index. ... 34&limit=0
The correct gaiters would be 065743
http://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/long-for ... o_2328.htm
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It makes sense they are BSA.
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swooshdave said:
Also, when fitted to a BSA or Triumph they would usually go the other way up. :wink:
http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/Mags ... CG-Feb.pdf
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if you use rtv silicone on the top end with your new ones, might be best to fit top end first with the cable tie , then when the rtv sets, it wont slide down. Also, don't forget to put a little oil on the chrome or it will go rusty, and you wont see the rust till its too late.
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Doing it right.
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ashman
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RGM sell the right size gaiters as well as the S/S clamps for the top and bottom, I have had mine on for 5 years now and they still look great and work well.
On another note hows has your Bonnie been going, I see you on the Triumph Rat site some times.
Ashley
On another note hows has your Bonnie been going, I see you on the Triumph Rat site some times.
Ashley
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ashman said:
It's good, I'm still in search for a better seat. It's pretty uncomfortable after a few miles.
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Swooshdave,
You did remember to put the 3 O-rings in with the headlamp clamps 6 in total. 1 on top of each ear and 2 in bottom. Stops that buzz sound where you cant seem to locate while riding. :?
Same size as the Amal O-ring seal to the manifold contact.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
You did remember to put the 3 O-rings in with the headlamp clamps 6 in total. 1 on top of each ear and 2 in bottom. Stops that buzz sound where you cant seem to locate while riding. :?
Same size as the Amal O-ring seal to the manifold contact.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
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I tried bu they kept getting caught on the fork tubes so I finally said %^&# it and left them out. :twisted:
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The trick to that is to rotate the top clamp. If you notice (at least on the 850 top clamps) the bottom surfaces have a light taper to them. You put two orings on the bottom triple (per side) while the top triple tree is at ~10-15 degrees from the bottom one. Then put the ears on, put the top O-rings in with a little grease to hold them in place and rotate the top triple and swing the ears under. If you then rotate the top triple clamp with respect to the bottom one, you'll find that each ear will loosen as you rotate the top clamp in opposite directions wrt to the bottom one. Use the slight slack you get and a finger inside the ear to press the o-ring in if it's coming out.
When you're all done, you should have both ears mounted with all the o-rings in place, and when you slide the tubes in you shouldn't have any issues. After measuring, I've found a LOT of the aftermarket ears (3 sets I measured) are a little longer and are actually nearly impossible to fit without loosening the triple clamps. A quick bit of work with a file and some POR-15 on the filed surfaces takes care of that.
When you're all done, you should have both ears mounted with all the o-rings in place, and when you slide the tubes in you shouldn't have any issues. After measuring, I've found a LOT of the aftermarket ears (3 sets I measured) are a little longer and are actually nearly impossible to fit without loosening the triple clamps. A quick bit of work with a file and some POR-15 on the filed surfaces takes care of that.
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