Fork gaiters on 73 750

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filthyphil

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Hi to all
I've just become the owner of a 750 Roadster, yellow with f'glass tank, numbers suggest 73 with 72 engine.
It has later disc brake forks, stanchion chrome is a bit worn but seals aren't leaking, so I was going to fit rubber gaiters.
Arrived today, in 'Norton 'packaging - but ID of lower end to fit over seal cover is only 44mm, seal cover ID is 57 mm OD.
Vendor of gaiters says heat it up and it'll fit [they would!] but I am pretty sure the gaiter will kink around the bottom belows if I stretch the bottom that much.
They say there is only one type, to fit an 850, so I can't have the wrong ones [heard that before..]
Anyone know of this problem?
Suggestions of what gaiter will fit without stretching the bejeesuz out of it?
Advice most welcome......
 
filthyphil said:
Vendor of gaiters says heat it up and it'll fit [they would!] but I am pretty sure the gaiter will kink around the bottom belows if I stretch the bottom that much.
They say there is only one type, to fit an 850, so I can't have the wrong ones [heard that before..]
Anyone know of this problem?
Click to expand...


Yes, they are tight, so they do have to be stretched to fit, however, there isn't any actual problem as far as I'm aware?
Fork gaiters on 73 750


Fork gaiters on 73 750
 
Mine were tight too, also a '73. Had to use zip ties to keep them from slipping off at first but they took a set and have been fine for years. Good for the forks too, pretty much eliminates the periodic need to replace seals.
 
I like the way gaiter take out the too skinny to work view of the smaller OD stancion than the robust wide sliders. I'm pissed that rubber booties carbs to forks don't seem to last couple years then crack in the valleys. So pissed I"m thinking to fit off road shock booties in bright color.
 
I got a pot of boiling water, dipped just the ends of the rubbers in it, and stretched them over by stretching one side and rolling the lip over all the way around. I also took the same measurements as you because I too was concerned as to the amount of stretch needed :shock:
 
Ugh Peel's forks extend two inches further so another reason she's having to shop else where. Heating stuff routinely sure helps to be reminded of.
 
I have a 75 MK 3 with the same gaiters and yes they are very tight . Midnightlamp is spot on. That is how I got mine on. You can also use a little automotive silicone if you need to.
good luck!
 
I'd recommend coating the staunchins with a coating of oil to stop the rusting that occurs. I fitted a new seat of seals before doing a big trip. They did not leak at all but when I got back, after riding through a lot of rain, is saw rust spots occurring on the chrome. I regularly wipe mine with an oily rag. [ I run the original dust seals though.
 
Thanks to all.
Heat gun and another person to hold it while I carefully eased the gaiter on while it was soft worked and they now look a treat, though they could be an inch longer, since there is a gap at the top where stanchion is visible when the bike is on the centre stand.
So a zip tie or something nicer looking will be required to 'keep its socks up'....

Gee, its a lot of fun putting the o-rings in, to stop the headlight brackets rattling [ they were missing when I bought it - must have been a joy to ride....]

Now I just need to refurbish the rust-filled master cylinder....or should I just buy a new Grimeca unit from Old Britts? The bike came with an old Triumph one, 16mm piston.
 
Dear hobot:

The "off-road shock booties" are known as "Seal Savers" and they protect the forks against dust better than any pair of gaiters. They do come on many colors, including black. Too keep them in place on the sliders, I put a narrow piece of double sided tape around the slider and install the Seal Saver. I add a zip-tie to bond the material (wet suit material) to the tape and after a month the zip-tie is no longer needed. Some Seal Savers even have zippers to ease installation.

I'm going to put them on mine (red).
 
filthyphil said:
Thanks to all.
Heat gun and another person to hold it while I carefully eased the gaiter on while it was soft worked and they now look a treat, though they could be an inch longer, since there is a gap at the top where stanchion is visible when the bike is on the centre stand.
So a zip tie or something nicer looking will be required to 'keep its socks up'....

Gee, its a lot of fun putting the o-rings in, to stop the headlight brackets rattling [ they were missing when I bought it - must have been a joy to ride....]

Now I just need to refurbish the rust-filled master cylinder....or should I just buy a new Grimeca unit from Old Britts? The bike came with an old Triumph one, 16mm piston.
Click to expand...
or re-sleeve it to 12mm
 
Still going on the brake rebuild....
Honed out the cylinder using 1200 wet and dry on a dowel, looks luvly in there now. New s/s piston etc.
The fun is going to be getting the back piston out of the caliper , since I can't use the hydraulic pressure in its current disassembled state.
And reshim the Isolastics.... all useful knowledge but I would rather be RIDING her....
 
I heated the oil vapor snot out of caliper with a stack of super magnets on the inner punk for extra mass then slammed on wood to gradually ever so slowly bump it out. It you leave the tiny pin hole rubber restrictor 'valve' of factory stack intact you may be missing out of its full potential, ie: more worry about too small tire patch than lack of power ratio.
 
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