Footpeg/Kickstart/brake Lever/Shifter alternate coating

I know very little about Plating but I want "other than Chrome" on the peg arms and levers.
I would think that Copper would be too soft (but I've been wrong before), I am looking for opinions on Brass Plating, Powdercoating, Anodizing or any other alternative coatings.

Unclviny (trying to "de-Chrome" all but pipes and mufflers)

The footpeg supports get some wear from your boots over time, mine have a soft patina of scuffed chrome now. I'd think maybe powdercoat might survive the wear. There's also something called "black chrome" that can look good, if black is your thing.

But personally, I'm a chromaholic. Love the bling.

You can go with nickel, which has a softer glow than chrome, but is much less durable. -- and then there's always painting, powder coating, black oxide, phosphate, zinc, or cadmium plating, or phosphate coating. Take your pick.

powdercoating is good just blank off brake pedal nub else it won't fit into foot pedal after coating.
probably knew that but better to offer it upto avoid any headaches. You could have it coated in silver?
Marshal

Black chrome is beautiful but my have a contrast issue unless you do the pipes, headlight shell, ears, fenders and handlebars also. $$$$$ I have seem levers anodized but look outstanding with a powder coat. It could be hard to stop at just the levers and pedals.

Nickel plate has been rowing my boat lately. I'm seriously thinking of nickel plating the frame I'm using for my hard tailed Triumph chopper project. That or paint. No more powder coat for me ever.

You folks confirmed what I was thinking, Powdercoat is going to be the way.

I will have the frame, swingarm, centerstand, sidestand, oil tank (non-stock), headlight bucket, footpeg supports, shifter, shock valances, fender stays and kickstarter Powdercoated British Racing Green, the cradle, triple trees and cylinder will be painted black and the tank and modified tail-section (it's a "high-back") painted flat(ish) black (to match the other black stuff). With all the SS bits I think it will look great.

I am assuming that I can use hi-temp Silicone to mask off threads and such for Powdercoating? and just dig out the Silicon later.

The remaining Chrome will be handlebars, gas cap, pipes and mufflers.

This is my first "Custom" and I'm having fun with it!

Unclviny

Good chrome plating starts with a layer of copper followed by a layer of nickel followed by a flash of chromium. Back in the day, motorcycle frames welded or brazed together out of mild steel culd not be chrome-plated because the chromium was much more stiff and brittle than the steel and places where the frame would flex would crack the chrome and spread the crack to the steel. This is why you used to see nickel-plated frames-nickel is softer and more flexible like the underlying mild steel. Advances in metallurgy since the '60s have brought us alloy steels that frames can be made of which can tolerate chroming.

Alloy aluminum does not take well to chrome plating. My guess is the difference in ductility and hardness make adhering chrome plating to alloy a sketchy proposition.

Anodising is another electrolytic process in which dye can be added to color what normally would be a clear coating. The clear/color layer is very thin and not super durable.

Plasma spraying is a process by which hot melted beads of metal are sprayed onto another metal. Some metals cannot tolerate the heat created by plasma and will melt, collapse or lose temper.

Powder coating is similar to plasma, but instead of melted metal, paint, in the form of a powder, is sprayed on hot and self bakes onto the surface of the part being coated. The quality of finish is similar to the old baked-enamel process where parts such as frames were painted and then baked to harden and adhere the paint to the metal.

I have powdercoated lots of sportbike parts with excellent success. Pegs, shift and brake levers, rearsets, footpegs, engine covers, brackets, etc. Like all "coating" processes proper preperation is the key and cleanliness is essential.
I have never tried high temp silicone for masking. I get special high temp tape from Eastwood and mask the areas I don't want coated. I also have silicone "cones" that I use to plug internal threads and similar female openings. Works great.
The powder coating is very durable and available is a wide array of colors from a number of vendors.

I have never had anything done at a shop but I understand most of them have lots of experience with motorcycle parts.

Good luck,

Scott

I have a fantastic Powdercoater that I use

Roadtoys in Deanville, Texas
http://www.roadtoys.cc

Chuck is located between Houston and Austin and has done some truly amazing bikes (check his gallery).

And since you asked, the bike so far:
1971, high rider tank, Pingel petcocks, modified fastback tail section (shortened to hug the frame loop, with a replica Miller "stop" light "Frenched" into it), no sidecovers or battery box (I prefer a bike you can read a Newspaper through), chopper-style "bullet" oil tank, 5 3/4" headlight with H4 bulb, Ceriani H/L ears, finned valve covers/points cover/instrument cups, - ground, LED's for brake/tail/instruments/bright H/L indicator, Pingel switchboxes, Domino levers, Hyde "M" bars, 19" rims front and rear, 520 chain, oil pressure gauge (Old Britts, Deluxe), stainless bits, lines and bolts everywhere, full Landsdowne fork bits, steering damper, ALL front drum performance bits, alloy vented rear brake plate, SS Halcyon bar ends mirrors, no pillion equipment (it's MY bike/toy!), fully valanced shocks, gaiters (held on with SS t-bolt clamps), SS t-bolt muffler clamps, 1 1/2" headpipes, Megaton short reverse cone mufflers.

Unclviny

Unclviny --- We need pictures !!!!!

Sadly, at this point it's an (expensive!) pile of parts (most of which are under my bed). I'm accumulating parts and "ciphering" on things right now. I'm actually considering taking a leave of absence from work to work on bikes (the bench is full of Triumph now).

Unclviny

Alas for some of us, constant accumulating, saving, plotting and planning
becomes a life style process rather a project with a predicable conclusion.

Everyone else has chrome, silver painted or raw rusted hardware
down there, but no one has Bright Brass gleaming for double takes.
Got me to thinking on it, so looked up brass plating, hmm.
http://www.epi.com/pages/brass-plating? ... 5wodxzWOxA

hobot

hobot said:

Alas for some of us, constant accumulating, saving, plotting and planning
becomes a life style process rather a project with a predicable conclusion.

Everyone else has chrome, silver painted or raw rusted hardware
down there, but no one has Bright Brass gleaming for double takes.
Got me to thinking on it, so looked up brass plating, hmm.
http://www.epi.com/pages/brass-plating? ... 5wodxzWOxA

hobot

Click to expand...

Because I spend so much time working (I average 270 nights a year in Motels) sometimes planning and accumulating is all I have so I'm trying a different approach this time, I'm trying to get ALL of the parts on hand so that the rebuild can be quick(er) and I'll have the bulk of the money spent before I start.

I am the "King" of long-term projects, with time-off so scarce in my world sometimes MONTHS go by with no to VERY little progress (exhibit A is the TRW that I've been restoring for almost 10 years!). I get home from work and by the time I take care of other stuff I barely have time to "play" with bikes before work calls (I'm in a "response business" I go when they say and stay until they say to leave).

This is the Commando that I've always wanted, I've been looking and planning/scheming on this for a long-time.

There is an outfit in Houston that offers "DuraBrass" plating and I will talk to them to see if they think it will work for me.

I fully understand that I'm going to be WAY "upside-down" on this thing money-wise but this ain't an investment, it's a toy.

Unclviny

As long as you enjoy it and are going to keep it money shouldn't matter.
Look at me- I've spent tons on my bike over the last year. May be homeless now, but at least I have a bike that will last forever. Could've wasted the money on rent and bills, and would be just as homeless today- but with no bike. You only live once. Go all out.

As long as you enjoy it and are going to keep it money shouldn't matter.
Look at me- I've spent tons on my bike over the last year. May be homeless now, but at least I have a bike that will last forever. Could've wasted the money on rent and bills, and would be just as homeless today- but with no bike. You only live once. Go all out. pelican.

Click to expand...

Alas people and pets don't last - life's a bitch and then ya die.
So right on mates, live it up like ya stole it, create some good
vibes that may out last us.

I had Houston life for 25 yr, just short of expanding I-10 to 24 lanes.
Made lots of money but mostly for those working for me so
always a nut to crack and very little time off. Plus takes couple
hours ride to get out of big city static. Decided to drop out
and just scratch a living but with a simpler life, then stumbled
on a Combat shopping for used mower with last of funds
and no work set up yet. Never looked back.

I do have to rationalize the expense as 20 yr pay back
if I don't die first.

hobot