Flooded Carb

MJD999

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I'm sure this is addressed elsewhere but I can't find it. In all the years I have owned (Japanese and German) carbed bikes I do not remember having to deal with flooded carbs. My first real ride on my Mk 3 (Fred from a previous thread) I had to brake hard and stalled the bike. I was in 4th and tried to bump start while I was moving with no luck. Pulled off the main drag onto a residential side street and tried the starter. Cranked strongly but no luck. Closed the petcocks, cranked the engine, first with little throttle, then WOT no luck. Let the bike sit for 5 minutes, tried again. It's a hot Phoenix day (95 degrees and climbing) and no shade, and I did not want to drain the battery, so I walked the 1 and a half miles or so home (time-wise it was a push with an Uber) and am waiting for my wife to get home to go try it again. I'm assuming it will start right up but sure would like to know the best technique for unflooding when on the side of the road.
 
I had the same problem, a few gentle kicks with a wooden hammer to the floatchambers helped. Later on I opened the bowls and fiddled around with the floats and float spindles and after that it was fine.
 
Have you got the choke lever in the right place? cable tight pulling the slides up. You didn't hit the kill switch by mistake when you braked?
 
Bike's home and I think I'll let it sit for a few hours and check again. Fuel was seeping out when I tried to start it but i figured some of my attempts might have cleared it. Also did a slight tickle. Triple digits here so I don't know whether vapor lock could be an issue. If it does not start next attempt I'll pull the float bowls off and take the plugs out.
 
If flooding is actually confirmed, check the float spindle it not being jammed by the gasket...might need trimming away right where it nears the spindle notches. Also, confirm the float needle and its seat are in good shape. New float needles are Viton rubber tipped and made out of lighter alloy vs older heavy solid brass needle. Makes a difference in float floation. Check if floats are leaking by placing under water and watching for bubbles, shaking float looking against a bright light to see any fluid within.
Finally the brass needle seat may need dressing/polishing...use a q-tip dipped in a metal polish like Autosol or even valve lapping compound...then twirl qtip in a power drill against the seat.
 
To start when flooded give it a lot of throttle to clear out the cylinders. About half throttle... and be readily to close it when it roars to life!
Some turn the key off and give a few kicks at full throttle to clear it out.
 
Have a tool kit with you. or at least a spark plug wrench to remove the plug to check it and then kick the bike over to "Air out the engine" an over flooding carb should not stop you because you can turn off the petcock and start it and start driving home. IT beats walking. Think OFF and ON, , Off and On. while head home. I carry a full tool roll and have lots of spare parts. When I'm test riding and checking mixtures with "plug chops" I have tools in my pockets, So I have them handy and can back, "Back in the saddle again." It beats walking by a mile or two, depending how far you are from home.
Lesson 1 , Having a set of spare spark plugs and wrench is priceless.
 
The Trick with the S. U. Fuel Pump , ( in a Rover 90 ) is a tap with a rock .

the Trick with a Ford 2 litre o h c , if the starter brushes are worn , is a tap with a rock .
( see that you havnt adjusted the idle high , and left it in gear :mad: or you can run yourself over , stopping it )

SIMILARLY . an AMAL CARBURATOR responds to a short sharp tap , with a blunt implement .
After all , theyre DESIGNED to FLOOD ! thats what the ticklers are FOR !

Its just your floats ( needle ) sticking . thats why they tried the Viton Tipped ones .

Flooded Carb


Without these , It'll do it , more . ' blueprinting ' the alignment of the flat hinge & fit , helps . Deburr etc . Free not loose .
 
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