Flat battery start

I ended up buying a NOCO boost after countless flat starts and pointless discussions with Norton.

I added heavy-duty leads to both the battery terminals and the jump leads. I keep the charger with me when riding. Only had to use it once so far but worked a treat.

Graeme Mitchell said:

I ended up buying a NOCO boost after countless flat starts and pointless discussions with Norton.

I added heavy-duty leads to both the battery terminals and the jump leads. I keep the charger with me when riding. Only had to use it once so far but workedView attachment 79211 a treat.

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Hey Graeme, any chance of a picture of that NOCO Boost next to your phone? Thanks. Steve

TonyA said:

Hi iwilson , How many miles are on the bike now ? You must have racked up a bunch more since .

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Just over 6,000km. Fired it up today just for you.

Hadn’t been run for a few weeks, so was a proper cold start!



Amazing how good this engine is! I did not touch anything other than the start button and it immediately caught and settled into a strong idle of just 800rpm from stone cold! No idle control fitted and none needed!

iwilson said:

Just over 6,000km. Fired it up today just for you.

Hadn’t been run for a few weeks, so was a proper cold start!



Amazing how good this engine is! I did not touch anything other than the start button and it immediately caught and settled into a strong idle of just 800rpm from stone cold! No idle control fitted and none needed!

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Nice !

Isn't 1200 rpm the prescribed minimum for proper oil pressure at idle?

speirmoor said:

No Tony its the Glass mat type

MBT12B4 Motobatt 12V AGM Battery

Battery Motobatt AGM Rep: YT12B-4/ YT12BBS *6/78/312

www.motobatt.us

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A safer bet no doubt .

Stephen_Spencer said:

Hey Graeme, any chance of a picture of that NOCO Boost next to your phone? Thanks. Steve

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Hi Steve, take my photos with the phone so will this do if you're wondering about the size?

BritTwit said:

Isn't 1200 rpm the prescribed minimum for proper oil pressure at idle?

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Not really. Idle is normally set with two goals in mind.

1. Lowest stable idle without engine stall;
2. Sufficient rpm to drive ancillaires

My engine hadn't been started in a number of weeks so it took a little more time than usual for the oil pressure light to extinguish. Cold engine, cold oil, pressure should be fine. Although the engine now has no idle air control system it's still possible to raise and lower the idle speed using ignition timing instead. I was so surprised by the transformation that occurred when I blocked off that shared idle air pipe between the throttle bodies I just left things as they were. Once the engine warms up it idles around 1100. Maybe this winter I'll make that my mini project.

I think it was this thread. Oil pressure at 1200 rpm should be around 40psi.
Below that???

BritTwit said:

I think it was this thread. Oil pressure at 1200 rpm should be around 40psi.
Below that???

961 Oil Pressure Gauge

I had a situation about 6 months ago when the oil pressure light came on at around 900 rpm hot when I idle off in 1st gear with the front brake on, as the normal idle is 1200 rpm and wasn't coming on at that I would not of known the issue if I had not of got the idle rpm down. I tested the oil...

www.accessnorton.com

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Bear in mind that oil pressure is much higher with cold oil. My bike idles at 1100 when warm which it achieves much faster than the oil takes to get up to temperature and become thinner. What you don't want with cold oil is excessive rpm or load on the engine. I would need to hook up an oil pressure gauge to see the numbers. But grade of oil, state of oil pump, bearing clearances will all yield differences from engine to engine.

Graeme Mitchell said:

Hi Steve, take my photos with the phone so will this do if you'reView attachment 79222 wondering about the size?

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Thanks Graeme. Yes, looking to pick one of these up and carry it in my inside jacket pocket - just a couple of cm longer than my iPhone 12. No need for croc clips, just a short NOCO male to male connector to meet the NOCO fitted battery cable. Guess you could do the same if you didn’t want to carry croc clips. Peace of mind - worth every dollar! Thanks mate!

Stephen_Spencer said:

Thanks Graeme. Yes, looking to pick one of these up and carry it in my inside jacket pocket - just a couple of cm longer than my iPhone 12. No need for croc clips, just a short NOCO male to male connector to meet the NOCO fitted battery cable. Guess you could do the same if you didn’t want to carry croc clips. Peace of mind - worth every dollar! Thanks mate!

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They're great. I have one as well. Even has a few usb charging ports, a light and a..... compass Have used it a few times to start a car and it worked perfectly every time.

Stephen_Spencer said:

Thanks Graeme. Yes, looking to pick one of these up and carry it in my inside jacket pocket - just a couple of cm longer than my iPhone 12. No need for croc clips, just a short NOCO male to male connector to meet the NOCO fitted battery cable. Guess you could do the same if you didn’t want to carry croc clips. Peace of mind - worth every dollar! Thanks mate!

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Hi Stephen, I like the sound of this device as a backup. is this the lead that will connect from it to our trailing one near the rear seat

Amazon product ASIN B009MI9JNA

Be advised these jump start battery packs have a built in controller on the lead....it prevents accidental reverse polarity connections and limits the duration of power output from the device. Might be a voltage sensing safety shut down as you're not supposed to deplete a Lithium cell pack beyond a certain point. Mine does a rapid red blink at initial connection and I believe the instructions state to wait until the green flash appears before cranking....guess it's trying to supply power into the flat battery, not supplying direct cranking amps to the starter motor (the lead cabling doesn't look hefty enough to provide that sort of power).

So, would not be altering the output leads to by-pass that smart-box unit.

At the moment I have the standard norton lead near the rear shock, i use a CTEK MS5.0 charger with an adaptor to plug into the Norton socket. Really interested to purchase one of the noco jump starters but confused what lead i need to purchase to plug from the unit into the norton lead

I think this one looks big enough

Welshrugby said:

Hi Stephen, I like the sound of this device as a backup. is this the lead that will connect from it to our trailing one near the rear seat

Amazon product ASIN B009MI9JNA

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Hey WR,

This NOCO stuff is good quality, no doubt. Couple of points:

- GB 40 is the same dimensions as the GB 20, just much more output. I would be going for the GB40.
- NOCO uses its own patent x-connector cables/adapters and as such will not interface with the Norton battery charger lead (LH rear shock).
- You will need to purchase cable GBC007 and connect to the battery - route down RHS of bike behind frame or forward to behind fly screen. This will allow you to hook up the GB 40 should you need to jump start. You will be able to continue to use your current charger as normal.
- Your charger (CTEK MXS5) seems to be a lead acid charger only, with no lithium charging facility and a desulphation mode that is harmful for lithium batteries - I take it that you are running the Shorai lithium battery? If so, I suspect this setup may significantly shorten battery life.
- I have just stopped using the NOCO Genius G3500 smart charger on the Shorai because of battery issues with an 11 month old Shorai and I could not discount that the NOCO charger may have been overcharging the battery. I have since switched to Shorai’s own charger which provides a full Battery Management System (BMS).

Happy boosting - got to be worth carrying for peace of mind !


Afternote.

I do not know the eyelet size on the GBC007 - they may be too large for a motorcycle battery noting that NOCO also sell GC002 which is advertised as for permanent fitment to motorcycles. This is the cable I had fitted and exits in a female end. It is not clear to me whether the GB40 has a male or female interface. It looks female from image above so the GC002 may need GC013 male to male connector to interface with the GB40. That said, it is also not clear whether the GC002 is rated to carry the charge from the GB40.

I appear to have raised more questions than I have answered. I’d check with a NOCO stockist for definitive info.

I have the standard norton fit battery from new. The manual states to use the Yuasa YTX-14BS so I am going to get another on the basis all the fancy expensive ones seem to last no longer. So not going the lithium route.

But will get the noco GB40, I take your point on the physical size, I assumed the GB20 would be smaller. I will get the leads so that in future I can easily jump it if I need to. And as you suggest leave the Norton plug there so I can still charge conventially.


Many thanks, hopefully up and running again soon

Thought you were running the Shorai for some reason WR. Useful conversation though as it has teased out a little more detail about these jump starters. I was not aware that the Lithium Jump Starters ironically cannot be used to jump start Lithium batteries. From the NOCO website:

Managed to get my Yuasa battery from Halfords (£64) but as suspected, no stock of the Noco. Located one in a store 30 mins away but they had zero idea about additional leads. So driven to Amazon for the GB40 and leads only to find 10 days delivery on the noco and for £2 more than Halfords. As I have a new battery to fit, realised only needed the noco lead quckly. Cancelled the booster and re-ordered on an excellent battery specialist in Wales


Good price and already en-route. Looking back on 3 years of ownership, I have always worried about getting stranded due to battery drainage if i needed several attempts to start. Very grateful to all comments on this thread about the noco unit which will settle my nerves about getting stranded.

No other previous bike has caused me battery issues but no other bike feels like riding the 961