Fitting the Outrigger

I've been doing a little gearbox work, bushing, new mainshaft and bearings (SKF 6203JEM). With the new mainshaft and gearing down a little, I thought it may be a great time to add a Maney Outrigger.

Other than the obvious cutting out of the inner primary, there are 4 minor changes that need to be done to make this happen.

1. The upper bolt needs to be 5 1/2" (9/16-18) from the 5" stock bolt.


2. The lower bolt need to be 4 1/2" from the stud that used to be there.


3. The nubs that used to keep the round end of the upper adjustment guide from spinning needs to be ground off and filed flat. These became redundant when the lefthand adjuster was added for the belt drive

4. .231" of spacer needs to go behind the left hand adjuster to compensate for the thickness of the outrigger.



I am at the point where I line up the inner for the big trim. There are no instruction and other that the details that are mention here it is very straight forward.

This seems like a such worthwhile addition, particularly if you are adding performance upgrades and gearing down to take advantage.

Thank you Onders, for the hookup.

Yep about what I found on the cradle mount bolts and dual SS adjustors. The most tricky, if you make it that way, is cutting the smallest neatest hole in case to not leave too open to the grime sling and if chain gang, close enough to mostly seal and allow chain adjustment gear box motion. The belt does not need any adjustment once set right can weld the tranny in place and still change belts with correct tension, so even more incentive to get a pretty accurate hole made. Please show yours and I'll show mine. Go out and strain the chains with the back up.

Here's mine. Note the 'happy to sacrifice' inner chaincase with old welded repair!
I intentionally opened it up at the bottom to help let anything out that is likely to get in.



I found the bottom stud was long enough without any issues, but I turned quite a bit off the top adjuster nut to accommodate the Maney bracket.

Have a look at the post regarding Peter Williams - Norman White's JPN solution looks the business!

Now that's some fine metal cutting it close B+. How did you transfer the marks or did ya measure for it some how? Just read the PW primary support article, very interesting. Its common to see two shaft ends tied together outside of cases, don't know how to pull that off. On Peel I'll likely weld the out rigger to the case hole or at least tacked good to avoid much distortion. I'm not sure yet if the ITT needs out rigger to handle Peels expected torque but still makes sense to support sprocket on both sides so can't hurt if I can fit it.

hobot said:

Now that's some fine metal cutting it close B+. How did you transfer the marks or did ya measure for it some how? Just read the PW primary support article, very interesting. Its common to see two shaft ends tied together outside of cases, don't know how to pull that off. On Peel I'll likely weld the out rigger to the case hole or at least tacked good to avoid much distortion. I'm not sure yet if the ITT needs out rigger to handle Peels expected torque but still makes sense to support sprocket on both sides so can't hurt if I can fit it.

Click to expand...

Steve,

I chain-drilled out a roughly marked out section which was smaller than the outrigger then trimmed it to fit. Time consuming, but all good fun.

Welding the outrigger to the case would certainly increase the stiffness, but I'd start worrying about the forces being transferred to the three piddly little 7/16" UNC bolts up front - transferring a problem to somewhere else?
Oops - I'm over-thinking again :shock:

Ok that's what i did, rows of holes then tired to grind them out but still more jagged hole than your nice one. I want to avoid undue stress on the tiny front case bolts/studs, but with out rigger welded to the case and also bolted to the cradle the front 3 should not even be needed but to seal the front area. My concern is the Drouin drive is a replacement of the outer cover so only held by the center cover bolt and locator studs and somewhat by the thin manifold tube. To do what I want on Peel mean Slam Blam clutch drops and throttle snaps I don't think 520 size teeth can take, so backing up the ITT shaft makes sense to me. Will have to fit 40 mm belt just so, then somehow mark where the hole goes and close enough to goop seal oil if belt don't hold will have to return to chain gang. If I could figure out a way to put support bearing on end of crank with the impeller pulley threads acting as the crank end nut, i'd sure want to.

I have to ask, if you weld the outrigger to the inner, how will you adjust the belt tension.
And how will you remove the inner? I can see how it is possible but not really practical, not that being practical is behind this .....this......this whatchamacallit of yours.

I have enough belt experience under my own belt plus insightful quizzing of maxed out drag bike builders and manufacture references to know once I determine the belt tension shaft spacing that's the permanent setting for mine and is loose enough I can install and remove belts like the dragster dude w/o changing shaft relationship. To remove inner case I will have to pull primary drive off like everyone else. Pull the front pulley, undo clutch nut and the out rigger bolts and LH tensioner and RH nut of top mount bolt. There are charts for shaft center distance per size of pulleys and length of belt but that don't exactly apply if thermal expansion not accounted for. If not supplies with belt can ask for it or might find online. Peel will have a belt tensioner on top run anyway to dampen the hi speed resonance-bow string flailing and teeth skipping. I figure on Peel, 4000ish clutch drops in 2nd should give best standing launches to reline then short shift to 4th w/o let off for some hesitation in tire spin cushioning then just lay low pinned WOT. Peel should be about bullet proof to hooligan her all I like. ITT gear box is state side now but not yet here to see if out rigger can be fitted.