Find That missing part

Bike was acting erratic

Ugly Mess eh!




-Dave K

Yeah, you're missing an electronic ignition. :mrgreen:

Yes ugly as they get but lovely function when both insulating covers are on each points terminal mounts.

Good excuse for carrying papers ; to check timing .

A set of dome head cap screws to replace ' cheese ' heads wouldnt harm . They seem to have a complex . Just as well they didnt call em ' chalk ' screws .
A sane routing for the points wires as part of the design wouldntve been a bad idea either . :lol: Shouldve stuck to the Magneto . :|

One of the wiping wicks and the associated bridge is missing (and your left point set should be open at that cam position).
The wiring and terminals are not OE correct.

another thing, and it's difficult to glean from the single photo, is the screw head on the right side of the wick touching the point spring arm?

Screw head on left side touches the spring...an after effect. The right JUST misses (not trying to make a joke here) The wiping wicks although missing has been that was since I got the bike, the PO said "its no problem...." The left set of points is where you should draw most of your attention. Although the right is not very great either. I think the insulators are ok (modified but ok) I mean the bike ran great for at least 2 days :mrgreen:


It started with the two "hold down" screws? (The phillips and flat head) for the point. They stripped and couldn't hold down the point very well making setting the timing rather difficult. Next the adjusting concentric screw somehow (maybe its behind there someplace) went missing.

When those 3 screws fail the point is now free to advance or retard all by itself which is exactly what happens untill the spring hits the screw and the dreaded miss.... was on the freeway and it was bucking and kicking and acting crazy...made it home on the "dark roads" but who knows if there is more damage.

at least you made it home.
Yeah, one wiper is amply sufficient as long as the other assembly is not loose floating around in there.
I think the eccentrics are not even present on some models so no worry there either.
And yes, the insulators must have been resized to fit into those ring terminals but they come with the new point sets.
I think there may have been flag terminals originally but unsure as I have never seen a good photo of any original set-up.
The wires may be OE, I could have been wrong earlier, mine are black/yellow black/white and that may just be model specific.
Most of that other points plate stuff is available used and someone on here had a " for sale" listing a short while ago that might be useable.
Is that a little oil weep past the cam seal?

Copper strand hanging out on the red wire and the green looks to be pinched at the stand off bolt.

Oh, and as someone else pointed out, your missing the gap on the left point.

I am missing the gap? Really??? I have a Norris D cam does that change anything? I don't think it would but you never know.... Maybe my point gap is wrong....or worn out??

I don't think the copper strand hanging out is a problem do you? Its not touching anything.......

Thanks for your help guys!

- Dave K

A Blanketuy 4 CA or Mag :shock: Think original wire terminals were the Two Prong , off the side of the wire thingo's. Sq. Flat bit to side of wire,
with slot in middle for bolt.Effectively Two Prongs .

Hymp. Never went for something you couldnt see , dismantle , CLEAN , & Fix . if I could help it.
Though the 70s Chrysler Electronic ign. wasnt to bad , as had a failsafe ' get you home ' mode .
Told by Kwakersiki H2R type IT has Chrysler pick-ups . Steal some of those . . ? :lol:

A DECENT points set up isnt really a pain . :mrgreen: :roll: If you enjoy chores .

B S A Twin A 65 unit is interchangeable , as is all the parts . Combined unworn bits of both ( Both 1972 )
to put a unworn unit in the Commando . The sucker gives 36 Deg. ignition curve , so with 31 b.t.d.c.
advanced , youve got 5 deg . a.t.d.c. at idle . Combined with slightly stffer springs ( Flog from any Lucas Distributor
such as range rover et al ) you can get a 500 r,p,m, idle . All Day . If its got Mk II Concentrics.
Expect it'd stall with Mk 1 s though .

Ordinarilly on the mainstand , doing the timing static in 4th gear , useing the wheel to turn the crank on the fine increments
you can get it SPOT ON .

.016 gap , or a Dwell Meter . use a 1/4 wide strip of ciggarrette paper , flick point open with tip of screwdriver to trap Paper. Itll come free at the point of the points opening . Ign. on , itll give a ' crack ' as it sparks , as a further check . :lol:


running the sucker up at night with the points cover ( and all lights ) OFF , youll see if theres any nasty leaks .
Or stick bare hands around H.T. lead ends .

A 4CA or K2F Magneto's a swine to get unearingly right in comparison .You dont know how easy you have it !
The hidious 4CA and energy transfer Ign. were responsable for the ' nasty ' reputation .
Done by the book , 6CA should give no bother . :shock: :lol:

You want ZERO wear in the Adv Cam / shaft giving radial variation EITHER . :wink: :mrgreen:

DaveK said:

I am missing the gap? Really??? I have a Norris D cam does that change anything? I don't think it would but you never know.... Maybe my point gap is wrong....or worn out??

I don't think the copper strand hanging out is a problem do you? Its not touching anything.......

Thanks for your help guys!

- Dave K

Click to expand...

What I mean about the gap is that it is in position to be open on the cam and it appears to be closed.

I do not no if the copper strand is touching anything or not but it seems suspicious.

Perhaps an overall cleaning and adjustment will get you on the right track. I hope so.

Youre not wrong there .

Points heel is on cam & gaps not there . should be .014 - .016 .Though Fanatics set by Dwell .Which'll be about that .

BUT . . .

The ADVANCE UNIT is hideing in behind the POINTS PLATE .Removeing , stripping , washing & cleaning the Whole Caboodal,
Lubeing and reassembling ( Its quite simple ! it'll only go together one way ! :lol: ) will have it 1000 % efficency .

Sometimes ' just ' twisted and solder impregnated ends of Contact Breaker wires , to loop around post under nut , about
1/2 in long bare / exposed.Bent into ' U ' .

Should have a little large washer over the insulator to be pedantic , it all adds up . If you gain a quater horsepower in twenty
places, Why Well , etc & so on .

Though im sure you know all this ! ? . Correct function of ignition system is crucial for power , tune & economy . 8) :|

The real boogaboo is the AAU wears out to stay in full advance or bounce to full advance trying to idle down, yet hardly anyone repairs them. This winter I'll try to see what can be done with my growing collection of worn out AAU's.

Yes kids ,the real neglected thingy is the AAU behind the points plate. The grease dries out and the bobweights get stuck up on wear grooves. Inspect.Peter.

Although I liked the AAU, I've just about given up on it. The Pazon seems to work real good for me now. Sorry hobot, but let me know if you figure out how to repair and keep them up to spec, whatever that is. Biggest issue is the cam to shaft wearing, second is weak springs. I could go back to my 12V coils and no wasted spark.

Dave
69S