Featherbed Fork Stop??

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Oct 27, 2016
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Today we jigged up the frame and checked to see what might be bent or twisted, and it all is pretty good thankfully.

I did notice, on the neck of frame ( bottom left) above the fork stop there is some sort of, looks like another stop, but doesn't seem to do anything .
Can someone tell me what that might be?

Also there seems to be another stop of some sort on the top of neck on the right side , thought this might be for a steering lock , is it?

Thanks
 
Pictures would help.

On my FB, the fork stop is a 1/8 inch plate bolted to the gussets where the frame tubes come together near the bottom of the steering yoke.

Slick
 
Early FB thru 1963 = bolt on stop & cross bar
no data for 64-65
66-end = welded on stop & cross bar

Curious if the bolt-on VS welded-on rear frame cross bar happened at the same time?
 
Round cross tube across the frame above the swing arm, has upper engine plate mounting points. Welded on late model slimline, through bolted (removeable) on early slimline FB
 
Pictures would help.

On my FB, the fork stop is a 1/8 inch plate bolted to the gussets where the frame tubes come together near the bottom of the steering yoke.

Slick

Hey Slick. Do you have a picture of your fork stop setup? I'm revisiting my Atlas and was hoping that you might be able to help me out. Thanks!!!
 
Will do Johnny. Give me a day or two ..... I am at the ranch, and the Atlas is at my shop in town.

Slick
 
Mine is bolted on. No 119 133 from 1966.


Fritz
Yes 119133 is quite late 66... 67 starting is shown as 119760
Mine what?
Fork stop AND cross bar?
Have you examined the frame for modification and originality of components?
What is the date stamp on the front end brace? Has it been obliterated or removed? What was the original series 20=atlas 18=650?
curious situation indeed.
 
@Johhnymac

Here you go. For whatever my photography is worth. The pics show how badly my frame needs restoration!!

Featherbed Fork Stop??


The SHCS are not original. The steel plate is 1/8 inch thick. The plate angles away from the gusset plates by 35 deg. as near as I can measure without removing. The upper plate with the lugs rotates with the steering spindle. The stop plate and upper plate have approx. 5/16" dia holes that allow a padlock to lock the forks full left. I used a padlock for many years until it succumbed to vibration, giving me a fit to get it unlocked. The SHCS were for an extra modicum of security, since the lock could be defeated by unbolting the stop plate.

Here is a full side view where you can see the 35 deg. angle better.

Featherbed Fork Stop??


If you need to fab up a stop plate, I can remove mine, trace it, and snail mail the copy to you.

Slick
 
Yes 119133 is quite late 66... 67 starting is shown as 119760
Mine what?
Fork stop AND cross bar?
Have you examined the frame for modification and originality of components?
What is the date stamp on the front end brace? Has it been obliterated or removed? What was the original series 20=atlas 18=650?
curious situation indeed.
The fork stop is bolted on.
What's the «cross bar» and what's the «front end brace»?

Fritz
 
The cross bar (sorry my term) is the rear engine/trans mount with the two tabs. It is through bolted (on early) rather than welded (on later).
The front end brace is the tab on the steering neck where you bolt the engine/head steady bar. The head steady bar attaches to the stud on top of the head. The front end brace originally has stamped digits for month and year of manufacture in the top edge.
 
Yeah - I agree Dave
Although the term "head-steady" on the featherbed, according to my Dad, was a misnomer.
It was actually a retrofit to compensate for the one significant flaw in Rex McCandless's featherbed concept - it actually was an additional support for the steering head. (maybe the original Commando frame designers weren't listening?)
The one? weakness in the featherbed design is where the rising tubes from the cradle cross over the horizontal tubes from the lower headstock.
If not braced by the "head-steady" the frame will surely fail from braking induced fatigue - normally the rising tubes fail
This maybe explains the relatively large number of featherbeds showing signs of repair in this area?
Cheers
Rob
Below shows the stamped brace with the date stamp you mention (taken when sandblasting my 500) together with a shot of the "cross bar" - Norton spares list called it "Cross tube rear engine fixing" - I like your term better! The two, single bolt lugs are for the upper rear engine plates - the single, two bolt lug is for the rear mudguard (fender)
Cheers
Rob
Featherbed Fork Stop??
Featherbed Fork Stop??
 
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Thank you so much!!! Looks like I'm going to have to custom rig something. I have no tabs on the bottom of my tree. Here is a picture of my Atlas.
Featherbed Fork Stop??
 
@Johhnymac

It looks to me like you will have to put the tabs on a custom designed, bolt-on stop plate.

Slick
 
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Mac, you may have a welded on fork stop yoke mounted to a bolt on frame. I would look at mine to confirm but the bikes are still in their moisture bags. Can't find any good pics on the internet to confirm.

Scott
 
Mac, you may have a welded on fork stop yoke mounted to a bolt on frame. I would look at mine to confirm but the bikes are still in their moisture bags. Can't find any good pics on the internet to confirm.

Scott
Thanks Scott! I think you're right. Here is the one on my other Atlas. It is correct.
Featherbed Fork Stop??
 
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