Exhaust Nut Option

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Brooking 850

Brooking 850

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Due to the high mounting of my race bike pipes and being stubborn about using standard exhaust nuts with lockwire, a friend had had his modified by an engineer friend for his Roadster in the past so I decided to copy this option as it just utilises all the standard components
I found a new set of chrome brass nuts lurking in a box of new spares thinking I would never use them due to their size, so I had the outside face skimmed flat (which removed the chrome) and drilled and tapped the small holes with a 10-24 tap and fitted 3x grub screws and a standard lock tab washer with the tabs removed.
This is so when I tighten the grub screws they dont lock into the allow of the head.
I have included pics of both nut types as the big chunky chrome ones will go on the Roadster and the smaller finned nut will be on the race bike.
This is just another option for interested parties.
Exhaust Nut Option
Exhaust Nut Option
Exhaust Nut Option
Exhaust Nut Option

Exhaust Nut Option

Exhaust Nut Option

Exhaust Nut Option

Exhaust Nut Option
 
Yes. Very interested and very impressed.
I planned something similar but the pressure plate is a fine inclusion.
Ta for that!
Looks like you were running out of fins to attach twitch wire to.

:D Now where are my really big stilsons to do those really big nuts up really tight! :D
 
totally overkill.
I have never had one of these bronze or bronze/chromed exhaust rings come loose. If you torque theses up properly they stay put. I get my engine running up to temp, then with my ring exhaust tool hooked on the heavy lug I rev the engine to 3000 RPM and apply constant pressure while the ring walks in to tight. I then get a red or black Paint stick and dab the one lug closest to the top fin on the head. It hasn't moved since but is good as a reference. I don't use the tab washers either.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
 
Clever thinking and out of the box construction and should help keep the threads under tension not to vibe crumble as should not need to retain twisting if tight enough to begin with. I hope the heat does not rust the screws in so hard to back off, if ya even need to to remove again. Milk of Magnesia is good anti-seize and some what a thread locker till the first twist turns it to dry lube. I may mimic this to hook springs cross the rose buds.
 
CNN, you talking race bike or road bike with your reply?
Overkill or not, it is something simple that anyone with a basic mechanical knowledge and tools can do and as I had the pipes and nuts off both bikes it is a simple exercise. Like I say, just an option.
Like I said in the start of the thread the pipes on the race bike are mounted high and only have one rubber mount on full length peashooters (2 into 1 on the way) so are under a lot of stress at race pace over a couple of days, so needed a bit more assurance to secure the nuts.

Regards Mike
 
hobot said:
Clever thinking and out of the box construction and should help keep the threads under tension not to vibe crumble as should not need to retain twisting if tight enough to begin with. I hope the heat does not rust the screws in so hard to back off, if ya even need to to remove again. Milk of Magnesia is good anti-seize and some what a thread locker till the first twist turns it to dry lube. I may mimic this to hook springs cross the rose buds.
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Hey hobot.
I thought about that too and concluded that the brass/steel thread interface lathered with copper anti-seize would pre-empt that concern.
Ta.
 
Most everyone is able to retain snug rose buds just tightening enough but the treads are rather crude fit and the heat tends to melt the anti sieze carrier out so I tried the Milk of Magnesia to find it lubes threads to tighten whether still wet or with dried layers on and acts like loctite til 1/4 turn out then turns to dry dust lube you can brush and blow off before re apply back on. Peel is on a weight control diet so snagged some alu rose buds which I fear to smack on like steel so plan is reasonable nip up then spring retainers between to self tighten over time. I used to swear at removing my lawnmower exht manifold bolts till MoM for normal crack loose effort then easy screw out or back in. I get an up lift on you racers sacrifices of time money wits and risks so food to my soul wishing it were me able to do so.
 
Brooking 850 said:
CNN, you talking race bike or road bike with your reply?
Overkill or not, it is something simple that anyone with a basic mechanical knowledge and tools can do and as I had the pipes and nuts off both bikes it is a simple exercise. Like I say, just an option.
Like I said in the start of the thread the pipes on the race bike are mounted high and only have one rubber mount on full length peashooters (2 into 1 on the way) so are under a lot of stress at race pace over a couple of days, so needed a bit more assurance to secure the nuts.

Regards Mike
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Mike,
I was initially thinking road bike but I have found that the bronze exhaust rose buds really don't loosen that much in the head compared to the old steel ones. the expansion rate is similar to the aluminum head. In regards to racing, on your first picture you have a single hole that is through the fin of the rose bud already which you would lace a safety wire and twist lock it to your bottom stud at your exhaust rocker when everything is tight, would you not? With your three Allen-head cap screws system you would now have to drill holes in these and then safety wire them all together as a system. I am not sure on your racing rules for scrutinizing your bike for the track but hey it looks cool and if it turns your crank then carry on.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
 
oH Yeah, I put the bronze flower exhaust bolts on Trixie Combat and also find they work a treat to stay nipped up and then remove well w/o damage to threads or me and look good to boot. If Peel Alu exht botls screw up I will cut 2-1 pipes to replace with bronze. I like steam punk yellow and golden highlights here and there. Who doesnt.

Exhaust Nut Option
 
I use bronze nuts and never had one come loose but those do look nice and blingy and to be functional too.
 
Hi CNN , yes previous ones on the race bike were an old steel set that came with the road bike suited for the crossover balance tube type exhaust, I then used a different set of pipes on the roadbike and changed out the steel units for a short finned chrome bronze set.
I ordered these big blingy chrome brass set thinking they were perhaps the go, but never used them until now.
I had my steel ones lockwired on the race bike through a small hole in one of the fins and the same on the roadbike.
Yes the bronze ones dont loosen off as you say.
I am in the process of building a couple of sets of 2 into 1's a la Maney style, needed some extra nuts , so now have a few sets and happy with the shorter finned chrome brass ones.

thanks for the feed back
Regards Mike
 
Brooking 850 said:
CNN, you talking race bike or road bike with your reply?
Overkill or not, it is something simple that anyone with a basic mechanical knowledge and tools can do and as I had the pipes and nuts off both bikes it is a simple exercise. Like I say, just an option.
Like I said in the start of the thread the pipes on the race bike are mounted high and only have one rubber mount on full length peashooters (2 into 1 on the way) so are under a lot of stress at race pace over a couple of days, so needed a bit more assurance to secure the nuts.

Regards Mike
Click to expand...

UK race regs call for two exhaust mounts.......
 
I don't use those nuts at all. I've machined up two threaded stubs so the ID exactly matches the port and screwed them down onto compression seals. My pipes have sleeves and are held back against the stubs by springs attachéd to tags off the rocker spindle plates. So it the stubs move they only tighten against the seals. Because I use methanol fuel I don't have problems with port getting too hot, however on a road bike this might be a problem - depends on what the fins on your nuts actually do ?
 
hobot said:
oH Yeah, I put the bronze flower exhaust bolts on Trixie Combat and also find they work a treat to stay nipped up and then remove well w/o damage to threads or me and look good to boot..........
Exhaust Nut Option
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Those do look nice Steve, how much did they cost and where did you get them? :mrgreen:
 
CJ
I got mine from Walridge Motors but most Parts dealers will carry them. Bronze or Plated Bronze your choice.
Email Mike Partridge for the Chrome plated Bronze units.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
 
CanukNortonNut said:
CJ
I got mine from Walridge Motors but most Parts dealers will carry them. Bronze or Plated Bronze your choice.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
Click to expand...
Thanks CNN, I'll start there.
 
RGM do some really, really nice ones of their own design / pattern along with their own excellent tool for tightening them without damage etc. When I spoke to Roger he explained he had to invest a lot of money to tool up and have a large batch made, and was selling them at a good price to get some of this money back ASAP!
I bought them and think they are excellent.
 
Fast Eddie said:
RGM do some really, really nice ones of their own design / pattern along with their own excellent tool for tightening them without damage etc. When I spoke to Roger he explained he had to invest a lot of money to tool up and have a large batch made, and was selling them at a good price to get some of this money back ASAP!
I bought them and think they are excellent.
Click to expand...
Okie dokie, Eddie thanks for that, sound too good not to take a look :D
 
I bought a pair from Roger at RGM recently too. Very nice, however you must buy the special tool with them. Do not try and tighten them with the standard tool! Unless of course you like that broken metal look. I'm ordering a new one tomorrow and the tool. Bummer
 
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