Engine plate

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prmurat

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Jun 6, 2003
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Rebuilding the Commando, I was looking at my engine plate/craddle and wondering what to do with it: I do not like chrome and powder coating is a pain for this part (masking etc as explained here: http://www.oldbritts.com/powder_coating.html) ....I was thinking of nickel plating or, if it is available anywhere, a SS plate (just cause I like SS!). The frame will be BRG and the body JPN with green/black stripes, Silver logo.
Any idea?
Thanks
Philippe
 
Nickel looks good. I've always wondered if it flakes like nickel finished guns though?
 
I have a nickeled (!) frame on my Egli and it is still ok after 5 years... nickel is normally applied on copper before chrome?
Philippe
 
Not sure, it'll prob be fine if done right... other folks chime in....

I just remember when I was looking into buying a revolver I read that Colt had stopped nickle plating guns in the 70's and switched to stainless because the nickle ends up flaking off. Heard the same about other gun manufacturers. I don't know what kind of time span is involved though...
 
pelican said:
Not sure, it'll prob be fine if done right... other folks chime in....

I just remember when I was looking into buying a revolver I read that Colt had stopped nickle plating guns in the 70's and switched to stainless because the nickle ends up flaking off. Heard the same about other gun manufacturers. I don't know what kind of time span is involved though...
Click to expand...

I think it may have been more due to the better quality and lower prices of SS as they refined the manufacturing processes.

If powdercoating the cradle puts you off, wait until you get the quote for those other coatings....
 
Are you familiar with electroless nickel? I first heard of it in Carol Smith's book "Prepare to Win", where he recommended it as a protective coating for exposed suspension rods on race cars. It has a matte appearance like stainless and is popular as an aftermarket gun finish due to good wear characteristics. It is not prone to hydrogen embrittlement like chrome and is much cheaper to do. In fact, I believe there are do-it-yourself kits available. It would be worth a look for this application.
 
The most recent RGM catalogue lists alloy gearbox cradles for 281 pounds, although their prices went up 10% in January.
 
That's good news Dave. I'd priced the cradle and swingarm last year and the ones I'd seem were $1500.00 combined converted to CND at the time. I just broke it 1/2 and 1/2 for my estimate above. The cradle swing arm combi knocks off 3/7 the weight from stock.
 
Rennie, I've always found the RGM stuff to be reasonably priced, although some of the special stuff like alloy cradles and swingarms may not necessarily be in stock, so it's worth a phone call to Roger to ascertain their status. They do have some interesting stuff that might be worth a try. They sell a special products catalogue which contains all sorts of stuff not listed in the main catalogue and they have included lots of Tuning information, factory Norvil tuning notes, specifications etc.
When I begin an appropriate project (probably my Dunstall cafe racer) I intend to try their 4 speed close ratio gear set for 320 pounds, I never really felt the need for 5 speeds and they are hugely expensive, but it would be nice to tighten up some of the wide gaps particularly between the lower gears.
Dave
 
Thanks for the answers...Went to RGM site and found the alloy one...US$498... ouch...another mortgage!!
What do they mean by: STRENGRHENED COTTER PIN TYPE????? I have MK3 isolastics...
Thanks
Philippe
 
ludwig said:
dave M said:
..it would be nice to tighten up some of the wide gaps particularly between the lower gears.
Click to expand...
Dave , a relatively cheap way to close up the lower gears is installing a Daytona 1st , as sold by RGM :

http://www.rgmmotors.co.uk/search-result.asp
item 179 and 181
I am using one for a few years now and I like it .
300 pounds for an alloy engine craddle ?
It's not so hard to make one youself .
I did it to solve many problems at the same time :
modified cutout for easier gearbox removal , fixed gearbox , spindle secured at 3 points instead of one , higher location for swingarm to go with shorter rear suspension , extentions for exhaust supports ,etc...:
Engine plate

Of course the plates are 2mm thicker , plus SS thrust plates , so the swingarm must be widened at the bushes .
( sorry for the low quality picture , dates from the pre-digital times )
Click to expand...


Nice job, Ludwig :!:

I wish someone would supply sets (engine craddle and front engine mounting) in stainless steel (don't mind the extra weight) :wink:
 
prmurat said:
Thanks for the answers...Went to RGM site and found the alloy one...US$498... ouch...another mortgage!!
What do they mean by: STRENGRHENED COTTER PIN TYPE????? I have MK3 isolastics...
Thanks
Philippe
Click to expand...

I think they are referring to the tapered pins used in the MK3 to hold the swingarm pivot shaft, as compared to the wimpy single bolt on all the previous cradles. It is a much better design. In "English", as opposed to "American English", they are sometimes referred to as cotter pins.

Ken
 
ludwig said:
300 pounds for an alloy engine craddle ?
It's not so hard to make one youself .
I did it to solve many problems at the same time :
modified cutout for easier gearbox removal , fixed gearbox , spindle secured at 3 points instead of one , higher location for swingarm to go with shorter rear suspension , extentions for exhaust supports ,etc...:
Of course the plates are 2mm thicker , plus SS thrust plates , so the swingarm must be widened at the bushes .
( sorry for the low quality picture , dates from the pre-digital times )
Click to expand...
It's one thing to replicate them in aluminum but to benefit from all those improvements, awesome! How many tricks can you keep pulling out of that hat?
 
Ludwig, you have to take your bike appart and take pictures of everything you did :mrgreen:

Jean
 
Ludwig - You didn't happen make a drawing (blueprint) of your alloy plates that you could share did you?
 
Here are some pictures of alloy plates during the design process. He was still checking them for fit, so they are not welded yet. These were made by Les Loudin back in 2005. He made them for himself, but made some extra ones to sell. I don't know if he is still making them or not. As Lidwig and RennieK have pointed out, it's pretty straightforward to make your own, although it is a good bit of work. With the price of good alloy plate now, it's also not so cheap. I've seen a few others that were home made. One of the local Norton racers back in the '70s (Mr. Jags, by name) made as set that were polished to a nice finish and then black anodized. They were really quite nice looking.









Ken
 

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