End float, cam this time

Cheers all, and a happy New Year.

Thanx for all the advice on the crank endfloat, until I noticed the camshaft endfloat, I was happy to leave well alone. However I cannot find a recommended min/max for the camshaft. There apears to be shed loads, I have DTI'ed yet, but by feel alot. Now my old beast has points still, and I notice some of the advance retard gizmo is cracking up, the pins that the do dads rotate on. Now I'm thinking the end float existing in the cam must be the culprit, all the in and out must play havoc with the ignition.
I want to retain the points for now , so is there a shim to shim and can I shim it back to 10thou OK

Cheers Richard

Cam endfloat measurement

Hello all again, part 2 of the last post.

I have measured the cam endfloat at 45 thou. After some research I note the MK111's use a two piece RH flanged cam bush, so I guess these unit control endfloat off the timing sprocket. So could I make a nice bronze washer and use this between the sprocket and timing case to give a nominal 10 thou.

Whats the consensus, waste of time or possible benfit to the points system and advance retard gear.

Cheers Richard

Put a 35 thou shim behind the flange on the bush, no extra parts to rotate and no worrying if a 35 thou thick bronze washer is about to disintergrate. PS 3 to 5 thou end float would be a better target.

Hi Komando,

Do you mean split the cases and put a shim/thrust washer between the cam and case. Or could I get away without the case split and insert a thrust between the outer side of the thrust and sprocket.

What do you think?

Cheers Richard

I meant splitting the cases, removing the flanged bush and reinsterting the flanged bush but with a shim between the flange and case. If you don't plan on splitting the cases then go for your idea, eg a shim/thrust washer behind the sprocket. Alternatively have the inside of the sprocket welded and then ground down to increase its width by 35/40 thou, again no issue with thin shims being eaten.