Electrics

Hi just thought I'd relay my woes. I have had my bike for 29 years I rebuilt the engine a couple times and the transmission once. Most work I have done myself or with the help of a friend from time to time but nothing professional. The form here has been helpful on more than one occasion and most times I read and do not post any items or give any advice. That said I would like to share my present situation with my bike that I had recently professionally restored. One would expect to have many miles of enjoyment with such quality workmenship and expertise. In comes the electrical demon and the spark from hell. I'm riding along at about 35 mph minding my own business when the machine just lost power like I turned the key off for just a couple of seconds. Just enough to make me nervous and I turned off the main drag and when I did the bike lost power again. I'm coasting up the road working the throttle wondering what the hell happened when she let out one huge backfire and that was it no more go. Now I'm on the side of the road kicking away not even a burp. I stop and start doing the checks, fuel, wires anything to see if I could see something, anything! loose wire, but nothing. I try the bike again and wow she started sounded good running smooth normal rev up no problem then it just shut off like I turned the key off. It ran about one minute, I wiuld try to start it agin but no go however I noticed if I waited about 10 mimutes or so it would start run 1 minute and shutoff thats all I could get her to do. Nothing I could see by eye to cause this condition. In the truck and back to my garage to see if I can figure what the problem is. Well I found out what is happening when I did the spark test. Sometimes when I roll the engine over it sparks and most times it doesn't. So what could the problem be all new gear so let the tests begin. I'm running sparx ignition black box pick-up plate and magnets also HO alternator and regulator/rectifier made by sparx.Coil pack is electronic manufactured by crane cams so all is knew but here I am with intermitten spark so where to start. I checked and tested all parts with multi meter, low voltage tester and a continuity tester. I found nothing conclusive to point to the black box coils or pick-up plate all readings normal as I have determined by paperwork specs or things I have read in articiles like here on the form. So what is causing this condition. Battery is fully charged and reads about 12.5 volts with meter. Everything reads ok and yet the problem is there. Most times with electrics you end up changing out parts and sometimes you might get it on the first try but my luck I'll change out all three pieces and still have the problem. So new or old when it comes to electrics bad things can happen. Is anyone out there running the new pazon ignition system it looks very impressive and has some nice features but very expensive. 7.5 year warranty, circuit protection, built-in strobe on pick-up plate nice. Anyone? and if so let us know how it works out I have found rita or boyer trouble will follow seems like sparx is no different when it comes to defective parts. There is 2500 miles on bike since rebuild and I wasn't real easy on her gettn' there I had lots of fun and more to come when I solve this spark issue they are GREAT BIKES keep them running.... ride like the wind.... Doxford

Doxford,
When the bike dies, do you have brake lights and turn signals? If not, then I would suspect the ignition switch. If you do, I would dismantle, clean, and test the kill button. You could also temporarily bypass the kill button by running a wire directly from the keyswitch to the Sparx ignition box. If this solves the problem, find the wire, connector, or kill switch causing the problem and fix it. I would recommend using a relay to feed the ignition, it takes less current to trip the relay than to run the ignition, so will operate with a less than perfect contact in the Lucas switch. Do not eliminate the kill button permanently. Trying to reach down and turn off the key when the slides stick wide open is an experience you don't want.

Re electrics

Thanks for your opinion Ron when key switch on all power is available to headlights and tail light brake, horn and signals. My ignition switch is now part of a consol between gauges with a volt meter included in the dash. There is no kill switch as the key is very accessable and directly infront of rider. There is an inline fuse located near battery for any electrical faults grounds or shorts which will blow the fuse. This works because I had the horn ground out and blow the fuse and cut all power to bike, the horn connection had chaffed on frame then made contact and blew the fuse. I received a new black box and pick-up plate from the people who built the bike but still the same problem. I am waiting for the coil pack and I will then try that. At this point I have removed all ignition parts and returned them to the bike shop. I have had no word back at this time as to the results they have found with the ignition system. I tested the new parts sent to me and have found no difference in any readings with multi meter from the new or old same ol same ol. Have not received coil pack to see if that is where the problem is. I hope it is as simple as a coil pack failure. I have checked all wiring and can find no problems. Tks again... Doxford my bike is a 69 750 commando build # 57 by CNW if you can imagine that. But she looks great! lol yes very disappointing!