Electrical harness build

Hello

Once upon a time I passed upon a posting where someone included a link to a vendor who sells quality electrical harness rebuild kits and supplies.
Does anyone out here in forum world have that link?
Thanks

Mofosheee said:

Hello

Once upon a time I passed upon a posting where someone included a link to a vendor who sells quality electrical harness rebuild kits and supplies.
Does anyone out here in forum world have that link?
Thanks

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I use these:

I use: http://www.britishwiring.com/Default.asp

They are in the US.

This is a very good article about building commando a commando harness with explanations and diagrams.

Many yrs ago I made up a harness from scratch , for my ‘72 Commando , used the diagram in back of BritCycle catalogue which was included with how to wire in tbe MityMax I hoped to use … think titled as simplified wire diagram for Norton twins or maybe British twins , far as I know still functions fine for new owner 20 some yrs later ….

Resurrecting this thread for a question: Have you built a custom wiring harness and did you run the console harnesses into the headlamp and connect within the shell?

Long story is those gray console harnesses are very long (Hi-Rider!) and I am considering performing all connections within the headlamp shell to complement the sparse nature of the custom harness. Questions for me include do I reduce the length and re-bullet both console harnesses, and if I do not is there enough room in the shell for everything? Pic below of where I am so far.

Jdub said:

Questions for me include do I reduce the length and re-bullet both console harnesses, and if I do not is there enough room in the shell for everything?

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There shouldn't be any need to shorten the switch cluster harnesses as the Mk3 harnesses did feed into the headlamp shell where the extra lengths can be accommodated.

I should mention that the Mk3 didn't have the headlamp switch or the three warning lights taking up space inside the shell but the Mk3 did have several multi-pin plugs also the flasher relay in there so the available space is probably about the same.

Is the inside of that shell white, or is it a reflection?
Just curious?

MichaelB said:

Is the inside of that shell white, or is it a reflection?
Just curious?

Click to expand...

Craig said:

Many yrs ago I made up a harness from scratch , for my ‘72 Commando , used the diagram in back of BritCycle catalogue which was included with how to wire in tbe MityMax I hoped to use … think titled as simplified wire diagram for Norton twins or maybe British twins , far as I know still functions fine for new owner 20 some yrs later ….

Click to expand...

We had Matt/CnW make a custom wiring harness for my '74 850. We provided a list of all of the new upgraded electrical components as well as their location. He also made it so that it will accept his E-Start conversion whenever that time should come. Also provided was all of the necessary connectors and a wiring diagram.

Mike "YING" did a beautiful job of installing it, all super clean and you hardly see any of it. Everything goes into the headlamp shell and connections are made there. And it took weight out of the bike . Though I didn't weigh the stock harness, seeing both of them on the floor side by side was enough info for me.

This was the right thing to do and very cost effective......I can't recommend this high enough....

Michael - the headlamp shell is painted a semi-gloss (not flat; not gloss) white. I learned this from Vech of Bench Mark Works BMW - the difference in working with difficult wires either on restoration or beside a cold road at night is amazing. You can clearly see everything, and for older BMWs with the deep cone-shaped shell and the tricky pressed cardboard circuit board it is essential. I do this on every motorcycle I restore now - small upgrade that is hidden and when needed very useful!

A bit of backstory on the wiring. I am using Greg Marsh custom harness instructions here, and Grant Tiller's schematic of same here. So a full TriSpark setup with provisions for both a capacitor and turn signals though I will not be using them on this Norton for now. I took Greg's instructions and spent two months converting the instructions into a Word template whose styles support a full technical writeup (numbered steps, screenshots, tips, before you begin, and other sections). I am pressure-testing my writeup and editing as I go. Then it goes to Greg to have a look for any comments he might provide - he is aware of the work and, again, is such great support for technical advice and parts (check him out for his Old Britt's selection, the prices are excellent!).

This is the first time I've ever built a custom loom (excepting the Triton) and it is very enjoyable but you want to sort your work well because once you get a bullet or spade on it's too late for shrink wrap or plastic covers. Steady on is the word! Here's the full-length wires from tail light to headlamp ready for sleeving on the rear rail plus some other pics.

Love the white paint idea

This may be who the OP was thinking of

Jdub said:

Resurrecting this thread for a question: Have you built a custom wiring harness and did you run the console harnesses into the headlamp and connect within the shell?

Long story is those gray console harnesses are very long (Hi-Rider!) and I am considering performing all connections within the headlamp shell to complement the sparse nature of the custom harness. Questions for me include do I reduce the length and re-bullet both console harnesses, and if I do not is there enough room in the shell for everything? Pic below of where I am so far.

View attachment 102225

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Hi, I am nearly done making a custom harness for a 750.
I have put all the connections in the headlamp and they do fit. I did shorten the grey handlebar cables, putting them through the side holes of the headlamp and then routing them upwards, so that most of the connections are made behind the headlamp switch.
It is crowded in there, that’s for sure, but better than having all the connections in the frame.
I have used a Wipac reflector since this has a shallower bowl and gives a little more room.

During my recent rewire I decided to use these Wago 221 series connectors in the shell. They are brilliant - just strip the end of the cable, push it in and release the lever. The wire cannot be pulled back out until you lift the lever. I like the fact they are clear so you can see if anything untoward is happening, however they are rated to 20A @ 300v so should be ok. They are available in 1 through 5 connectors..

cliffa said:

During my recent rewire I decided to use these Wago 221 series connectors in the shell. They are brilliant - just strip the end of the cable, push it in and release the lever. The wire cannot be pulled back out until you lift the lever. I like the fact they are clear so you can see if anything untoward is happening, however they are rated to 20A @ 300v so should be ok. They are available in 1 through 5 connectors..

View attachment 102259

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first saw these a couple of years back for house wiring. they work well.

Having used quite a number of Wagos for different applications I don't use them for motorcycles except maybe inside headlamps. Reason is the hostile environment. They are not intended for wet or damp conditions where corrosion can cause malfunction.
Use of a wiring harness simplifies manufacturing of a motorcycle. But a number of wires hold together by a insulating outer shield causes higher temperature in the wires. With subsequent higher wire resistance causing higher temperatures which might give wire insulation failure. A poorly designed wiring harnass could end up with Lucas blue smoke.
Fault finding and repairing a wire harness is a PITA.
So I usually makes my own wiring only using external shield between frame and headlamp. Makes fault finding and repairing less frequent and easier to do. Also makes modifications easier. Of course have to draw the wires where risk of mechanical wear of the insulation is minimized.

I made my own harness for my Scott and sent it to Rhode Island Wiring to be wrapped, turned out real nice

cliffa said:

During my recent rewire I decided to use these Wago 221 series connectors in the shell. They are brilliant - just strip the end of the cable, push it in and release the lever. The wire cannot be pulled back out until you lift the lever. I like the fact they are clear so you can see if anything untoward is happening, however they are rated to 20A @ 300v so should be ok. They are available in 1 through 5 connectors..

View attachment 102259

Click to expand...

Cliff,
I also like the Wago connectors. I also put 3-M duo-lock Velcro on the back of them to hold them in place inside the headlight shell.This helps me keep them in place.Tedious work but helps keep them out of the way when you install the headlight.
Mike