Dutch MKIII

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dantriumph said:
Looking in the parts manual I notice that there a "Washer" 06-7520 between the Guide Bush and the Oil seal. Andover Norton calles is a "Paper washer" The parts manual sayes I need "1" But 2 oil seals and 2 Guide bush ect.
Click to expand...

The MkIII parts book is wrong as you should normally need "2" paper washers (1 per fork leg)


dantriumph said:
Last time I adjusted the ISO's I noticed that when I had adjusted the front Iso, I had a gap of about 1mm between the adjusted and the frame. The Down tubes will be pulled together when tightening. Will standard pre MK3 front Isolastic shims fit behinde the End caps on my MK3?
Click to expand...

Before you attempt to fit shims anywhere, I would suggest you check the condition of the two 064748 PTFE washers first, as they can wear down until paper-thin (before eventually disintegrating completely) the thickness of the PTFE washers will affect the overall width of the Iso. assembly. Two new PTFE washers may correct the problem.

http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/Norton% ... 15&Part=23
 
Thanks Guys.
I have new PTFE washers to fit. I´ve also checked the sideplates and they´re also worn, so might replace them as well.
I´ll order new oilseals for the frontfork and ask if I need the washers.
Dan
 
dantriumph said:
Hi.
Thanks for your help so far. Here´s another question. The TS bearing sealing washer (06-7526) is a tight fit in the crankcases. But shouldn´t it be turning with the crankshaft? There is a slight wearmark on both side of the washer. See Photo.
Dutch MKIII


Dan
Click to expand...

Having just finished the bottom end rebuild of my 1973 850, and much reading of this forum, the tech digest, and many other sources ... that washer should turn inside free and smooth. If it doesn't, either find one that will, or file the one you have until it does. I had four of those washers and only one turned freely and smooth, so that is the one I used. I also had notes in my shop manual (from the early 1980s) that the timing side crankshaft washer should turn freely as well.

I recommend a PM to Jim Comstock, (comnoz) as well ... to see what he thinks. Cheers.
 
Thanks Nortriubuell.
I also came to the conclusion that is should be able to turn freely. So I turned it of in my mini Lathe.
Dutch MKIII


Dan
 
Nice lathe dantriumph ! It probably took VERY little metal removal too ... another example of Norton "quality control" or lack there of back in the day. :shock: I guess that's part of the charm of these old quirky bikes :)
 
Hi.
Indeed it took very Little to get the washer to turn freely in the cases.
I fitted new frontwheel bearings yesterday. I heated the hub gently and the bearings went in with a few tabs. Now that the hub has cooled down Again, the bearings won´t turn freely. The bearings were orderd specially for the front hub and they turned freely before fitting. The hub was clean. Any ideas? Before I pull the bearings out Again.
I got the frame ect. back this week. Everything has bin powdercoated.
Dutch MKIII

I had the disc done as well, as they needed a light skim anyway

Dutch MKIII

In the meantime I´ve bin busy polishing.
Dutch MKIII

I wasn´t planning to take the frontfork apart, but changed my minde when I was the oil that came out when I drained them. So since I had them apart, I decided to go for an Lansdowne damper kit.
Dutch MKIII

Dan
 
dantriumph said:
Now that the hub has cooled down Again, the bearings won´t turn freely. The bearings were orderd specially for the front hub and they turned freely before fitting.
Click to expand...

Were the new bearings standard (CN, but usually unmarked) or C3 clearance?
 
Carn't wait to see the finnished product, should be like a new bike!
Plus your pictures are great :!: well done.
dantriumph said:
Hi.
Indeed it took very Little to get the washer to turn freely in the cases.
I fitted new frontwheel bearings yesterday. I heated the hub gently and the bearings went in with a few tabs. Now that the hub has cooled down Again, the bearings won´t turn freely. The bearings were orderd specially for the front hub and they turned freely before fitting. The hub was clean. Any ideas? Before I pull the bearings out Again.
I got the frame ect. back this week. Everything has bin powdercoated.
Dutch MKIII

I had the disc done as well, as they needed a light skim anyway

Dutch MKIII

In the meantime I´ve bin busy polishing.
Dutch MKIII

I wasn´t planning to take the frontfork apart, but changed my minde when I was the oil that came out when I drained them. So since I had them apart, I decided to go for an Lansdowne damper kit.
Dutch MKIII

Dan
Click to expand...
 
Wax or use the custom car polish protectors to get some lasting shine life on the nice alloy finishes while waiting to assemble and for a time on the road.
 
Hi
Got the bearings sorted. I also got the frontfork fitted with the new Lansdowne damper kit.
Dutch MKIII

Lessons learned:
1. Don´t forget to fit the Gaitors. Grrrrr... :(
2. Don´t forget the washer under the top nut. Grrrrrrrrr :x
3. Don´t forget to fit the clockholder. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr :evil:
That was the moment I realized it was time for a break :wink:
At least I didn´t forget to refill with forkoil.

I had bin thinking about how to messure exactly 160cc of oil. I came up with this. 1000cc of Water is 1000gram. So 160gram of Water is 160cc. So messured 160gram of Water and marked it.
Dutch MKIII

Guess the rest of you already figured that out of will come up and say, why didn´t you kust do like this. Anyway, it worked.
Dan
 
Breaks are good, draw up a chair and sip on the coffee...while casting an eye over the task in hand. Think out what needs to be done and in which order, run the mind video a few times,than put the hands into gear. More speed,less haste!
 
That's pretty funny assembling so far to have will power to dive back in. C'do definitely challenge or improve task and parts memory skills. I use a cattle syringe form feed stores and put in 175 cc ml. The air pocket gets pumped down pretty quick so extra fluid short of hydro lock causes less fork sag and spring dampening changes.
 
Hi. The guy who is balancing my crankshaft called me and offered to drill oil holed in my JS conrods.
He sayee that he always does that when he does engines for Holland Norton Works. Can any of you explain to me why there's no oilholes in the rods. I think I read somewhere else that Jimn were blokking the holes in original rods?
Dan
 
The Norton oil holes were a mistaken solution to wrist pin seizures that turned out to be a bad batch of pistons so do not make holes in new rods and its not a bad idea to flip rod shells like racers do to cover the useless oil pressure wasting factory rod holes.
 
The oil holes in the rods serve some extra lubrication and cooling to the pistons/cyl.bore. I always used Carrillo rods for racing and first I tried the rods as they come (without oil holes) after experiencing initial light seizures due to overheating I decided to drill oil holes like the standard rods: No more seizures. From then I drilled every Carrillo rod just to have this little extra lubrication and cooling. After drillng the holes there was no noticeable oil pressure drop (still a healthy 50 psi above 3000rpm, hot oil) So no need to worry about loosing oil pressure. If your engine can't deal with this minor oil pressure drop you seriously have to examine your oil pump.
 
Hi.
If the oil holes adds extra cooling and lubrication, why would you not want these holes? What´s the disadvanged and what do you gain? The only thing I can think of is that you might get a Little higher oil pressure?
Dan
 
Hi.
Got the frontfork, Wheels, gearbox and mudguards (fenders) fitted last week.
Dutch MKIII

I´m going to replace the original rear caliper with a Lockheed CP 2696. I know a CNW brembo kit would probably be better, but I really like the look of these calipers. Has any of you done this? I know RGM has a mounting plate to fit this kinde of caliper, but I´d like to make my own. If anyone has experience with this, then I´d be happy to hear about it. Or if there´s anything I should pay attention to.
Dan
 
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