Dry spark plugs

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With the plugs out, ignition off, put a finger over one of the plug holes. When you feel compression developing align the first available timing mark; at this point the trigger magnets on the ignition rotor should be aligned or very near the coils they induce the ignition signal, if they are about 90 degrees off then reset as marshg246 pointed out.

Best.
Thanks. Yes I will check the timing mark used. Hopefully I was on the wrong one!
 
bluuman,

Just a little side note:

My old horse is much easier to start using the electronic ignition, podtronics rectifier/regulator, and dual e-coil when the battery is strong. Timing has to be correct within a degree or two as well. My plugs look dry, but have a distinct odor of fuel on them. The plugs don't need to be wet with fuel to start the motor. However, when troubleshooting you'll know your getting fuel into the cylinders when the plugs are slightly wet. Enough captain obvious talk.

Any luck getting your motor started?
 
Well finally the engine roared into life..... such joy :) I reset the plugs to 22 thou gap, checked the correct rotor mark was used for timing. Turned the engine by hand eyeing pistons (feeling with a little wooden rod) reaching TDC, checking valve timing, valve closure and tappet settings, all good. Temporarily attached a NiMH battery pack (10x D size) that was around 13.0v to give some decent voltage. No luck....not a sausage.
Then I removed the metal screw on gauze air filters and squirted neat meths into the carb air intakes.
And one mighty kick and she started ! Ran for ten minutes and I adjusted ignition timing by ear at 2000 and 3000 revs. Lovely. Ticks over good. So was it the restrictive air filters (they seemed quite clean) or just a big vacuum suck that pulled any tiny debris out of the carb jets? (both?)
 
I apologize in advance, but can't help it. How did changing to Pazon clog your air cleaners and how do clogged air cleaners make your plugs dry rather than wet :confused:
 
Using the starting fluid doesn't count. ;)

Does it start cold now without the canned squirt?

BTW not "all" Norton engine/carburetor combinations need the throttle closed to get fuel into the combustion chamber. Keihin FCRs have no choke and an accelerator pump. Real easy to start my motor with a couple of WOT pre-kicks with the ignition Off, then turn the ignition On, open the throttle a little, and kick it. And I'm not washing my cylinders using that method with the accelerator pump.
 
Yay! The suspense was killing me :D
You might want to put a strobe light on it rather than relying on timing by ear. Just a thought..........
 
Using the starting fluid doesn't count. ;)

Does it start cold now without the canned squirt?

BTW not "all" Norton engine/carburetor combinations need the throttle closed to get fuel into the combustion chamber. Keihin FCRs have no choke and an accelerator pump. Real easy to start my motor with a couple of WOT pre-kicks with the ignition Off, then turn the ignition On, open the throttle a little, and kick it. And I'm not washing my cylinders using that method with the accelerator pump.
OP mentioned twin Amals...
 
To be honest in my mind the jury is still out.
I suspect more than one problem. Previous to the meths, giving many strong kicks resulted in nothing.
I have a fibreglass tank which was thoroughly rinsed when I bought the bike 5 years ago. It had been running 95 octane which has ethanol in it. Resin residue was found in the carbs back then. The tank had been lined before my time, but recently I suspect a small amount of goo found its way back into the carbs.
I now always run with ethanol free 97 and regularly check samples using a water absorption test.
Secondly the old dual HT coil was a low resistance (approx 2 ohms) low cost Jap one. So the primary may have had a partial short which wouldn't have helped matters.
Thanks to everybody for all your suggestions.
 
If you turn the ignition off and kick the motor over on full throttle,a few times, when you turn the ignition back on and kick the motor over, you should ast least get one bang out of it. If that happens, you will know you have got blocked slow running jets. If it does not happen, you might have a fuel flow problem or no spark. If you have got compression on both cylinders,, I doubt you have sheared they key in the cam sprocket.
 
I agree that it could be 180 out but should still get fuel in the chamber. Silly question but are the fuel taps open. I once had a bike brought to me to look at because the guy couldn't get it to start, he had washed it and it never fired up again. i quickly found the issue, a rag stuffed it the intakes while washing had not been removed.
 
I agree that it could be 180 out but should still get fuel in the chamber. Silly question but are the fuel taps open. I once had a bike brought to me to look at because the guy couldn't get it to start, he had washed it and it never fired up again. i quickly found the issue, a rag stuffed it the intakes while washing had not been removed.
Thanks, but fuel feed was fine and ignition timing pretty much spot on. It is possible that now I kickstart with the throttle closed, the vacuum does a better job of sucking the fuel through the jets, so the engine fires first time. Also as I have always known, nothing less than a mighty kick is required !
My poor old knee... one day an electric foot may be needed.
 
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