Drum Brakes

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Feb 22, 2007
What are the telltale signs of worn-out brake shoes? Unfortunately the bike is apart so I can't tell by merely testing them out on the street. But I do have a few shots here.... may help with a diagnosis(?) --sorry, they are a bit out of focus.

Per usual, thanks in advance!


Drum Brakes

Drum Brakes
That type of pad doesn't wear much or work too well. I found some nice new soft ones work real well. But if the front works good you may find you use the rear only for gravel.
While we are on the topic of front brake effectiveness, anyone installed the stiffening kit? Is is it worthwhile to do?


ps - I've always wondered, is the list of bikes at the bottom of your post a list of bikes you have in the garage or a list of bikes you have had in the past? Cause some of you must have awfully nice garages!
As long as the rivet heads are well below the lining surface they are ok to re-use, but as mentioned a softer lining would work better.
They look like they have plenty of life left in them, though they may be a little glazed over because of age and use etc.

You could get some medium grade emery paper and give them a light sand over to get rid of the glaze and you may find they will grip a little better.

Don't forget that original / older linings will contain asbestos. Mind how you go if you start removing material.

New linings turned to the drum diameter would probably be a sensible step.
Thanks all. The parts were O.E.M. as they had the Norton six digit parts' I.D. stamped into them, but were very very glassy. I ended up going through the usual online vendors and seeing what was available. I ordered a pair of Ferodo brake shoes.... please let me know if these are not up to speed.... the vendor is supposedly quite good about returns. Something about brakes.... I rarely use the back brake at all but on the rare occasion it's nice to know you have the ability when you need it. Money well spent, in other words.


That's also my choice for the rear. They work well. Directions for use as these are bonded with glue and not riveted.
As I received them and practiced without ill effect. Les@ Norvil clued me in on the first. Drill the rear brake plate out with a 7/8 bit. You want an 1/8 clearance on the stubby axle. You will only be taking 1/32 out on each side so use caution. The idea is to assemble the thing and put on the brake real hard then holding it tighten the stubby axle. Don't skip this part.
Second bit told to me from Sterling motors in Ohio. Cure the glue with the first heat cycle. Ease into the new shoes with lots of light taps at low speeds using the brake harder and harder as you ride along. You need to return from this ride with the shoes as hot as they will get during very hard use. Now the important bit let them cool all the way down before using them again. If you go way back using the search function on this board under my handle you will find other little tricks about sanding in the shoes and on and on.
Thanks Norbsa, that's all VERY helpful. Will definitely take your advice on this. The parts are still a week from arriving but I'm sure I'll have more questions at the time of reassembly.

Cheers and again, thanks!

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