dismantling the engine

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hostilecarl

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I'm not an ace mechanic and this is my first stab at a psuedo restoration. I can't slacken the clutch pushrod adjuster nut. I have the compressor, so once the nut is off I should be fine. Any ideas ?
 
You can wedge the brake pedal down to hold things locked while breaking the nut loose. Or wedge something somewhat malleable between the primary chain and chain wheel (wood, plastic etc.) It shouldn't take huge force crack the nut, however you do need to have things locked. A light hammer tap (while applying some pressure to the spanner with other hand)on the far end of a box end spanner will often do more than standing on a three foot long pipe extension.

Glen
 
If you have the compressor tool on, take it off. Get a wrench on the nut and having it at about a 9 to 10 oclock angle, strike it sharply to overcome the spinning mass to pop the nut loose. You may need to try different items to strike with to get just the right inertia. A 16" piece of 1" black pipe comes to mind.

Enjoy these processes for you will carry them with you for the rest of your life.

Go to Harbor Freight and get yourself a cheap electic impact wrench.

I know you are not there yet, but the big nut holding the sprocket on the gearbox is left handed. That is to say, righty loosy, lefty tighty. This will sure be a challenge for you.

Here is a hint,
dismantling the engine
 
pete.v said:
If you have the compressor tool on, take it off.
Click to expand...

But, the pushrod adjuster (and nut) need to be removed first before the tool can be fitted. :wink:
 
http://britmoto.com/
You might want to get a hold of copies of the factory manual and a parts list for your particular bike. The manuals and parts lists are available free online. The parts list is great for ordering parts using the numbers and it tells you the names of things. It also has diagrams that show you how things go together that Haynes and the manual don't.
 
If you don't have an impact wrench, I've stuck a 3/8" flat screwdriver in one of the diaphragm spring slots. No heavy liftin'... :lol:
 
Thank you all. I'm finding the Haynes about useless. All the nuts and bolts are off, compressor on, alternator stator and rotor off, but I can't get the engine sprocket and clutch sprocket to slide off with the primary drive chain, as shown in manual. And, Haynes is talking about yet another specialty tool, ET 2003. Is this a necessity, like the clutch compressor ? All I intend to do, at this point, is remove everything from the frame so the frame can be powder coated. Then start from scratch with each component.
 
If you don't have an impact wrench, I've stuck a 3/8" flat screwdriver in one of the diaphragm spring slots. No heavy liftin'... :lol:
 
hostilecarl said:
Thank you all. I'm finding the Haynes about useless. All the nuts and bolts are off, compressor on, alternator stator and rotor off, but I can't get the engine sprocket and clutch sprocket to slide off with the primary drive chain, as shown in manual. And, Haynes is talking about yet another specialty tool, ET 2003. Is this a necessity, like the clutch compressor ? All I intend to do, at this point, is remove everything from the frame so the frame can be powder coated. Then start from scratch with each component.
Click to expand...


The most USELESS thing in the manual is the 70 ft. lb. torque value for the clutch hub nut. It will destroy the circlip. 40 ft. lb. is the number most agree on.
 
Personally I would buy (or borrow) the clutch compressor, that spring is under a fair bit of tension and even if you get it off without the tool you will need it to re-assemble
 
Doh just re-read your post and you have the clutch tool, apologies, gets coat and leaves!
 
If you don't have a good torch on hand then you may likely damage fasteners and tools. IF it don't start off after decent 1st try then EL Flamo till sizzle hot and see how easy it can be. I've no air tools either and just use a 1.5" end wrench on the sprocket nut, which does not need to be nearly as over tight as manual says, as nil side loads on it and traped by the lock ring/screw. Note this is reversed threaded.
One of my most used engine wrenches is the bent-cooked 1/4 w sold by vendors.
Fire extingisher a must have handy tool for me, though never needed on Nortons it has saved other things.

I find clear food containers keep bugs and crap out and can see at a glance whats inside.
 
Yes you need a simple puller for the front crank sprocket.
Back to Harbor Freight for you.
dismantling the engine
 
That is a good type of robust pulled for the crank sprocket but I've had those fracture even with oil burning heat applied, ugh. The other more special one of a kind pulled needed is the 3 prong kind for the TS pinon gear thingy. I"ve 2 on hand and lend out just for the postage. Another handy non standard tool I use a good bit are two mini-micro 90' crow bars, like 4" long x 1/2" wide to get behind cogs and help ease out seals. Zip ties and rubber bands may be in your future tool box too. I use small Al blocks to lock up clutch and clutch center when chain not on. One braces on clutch teeth against the mounting post, the other jams up inside clutch. If parting head or slitting cases are stuck I keep a bunch of thick razor blades to drive in, though study the engine cases photo's to see where they will strike a lip if going in too far.
 
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