dismantling the engine

I don't use the commando clutch, however I only have one special tool for my Seeley. It is the half-time gear puller for the item which is on the timing side end of the crankshaft. If you try t o lever it off without the correct puller, you can easily crack the aluminium crankcase piece which covers the timing side main bearing. A couple of piston ring compressors are useful too, if you want to avoid breaking a ring while replacing the barrels.

Remember, the OP stated he wants to remove the engine/cradle from frame from powder coating. Timing side need not be disturbed. (as yet, he doesn't know the depths if his wallet the project will explore!)

hostilecarl said:

Thank you all. I'm finding the Haynes about useless. All the nuts and bolts are off, compressor on, alternator stator and rotor off, but I can't get the engine sprocket and clutch sprocket to slide off with the primary drive chain, as shown in manual. And, Haynes is talking about yet another specialty tool, ET 2003. Is this a necessity, like the clutch compressor ? All I intend to do, at this point, is remove everything from the frame so the frame can be powder coated. Then start from scratch with each component.

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Engine sprocket is a taper fit to the crankshaft, with a woodruff key. You will need a tool like an an automotive steering wheel puller to break the sprocket free of the shaft.

If you're talking about the sprocket on the crank, yes it takes a puller, and usually heat will make it pop off. Nothing special about the puller, you can make or borrow one. Don't go beating on the end of the crank shaft. The sprocket on the crank is a taper fit with a woodruf key.

Dave
69S

The way I get mine off is to apply heat to the gear and give the bolts on either side of the puller, not the center bolt, a little rap and it pops off.
You don't want to go wacking on the center bolt at all. Shouldn't be wacking at all but wadda you gonna do.

A number of times I've cranked down on the puller and then El Flamo till oil vapors rolling off and before i could rap The Center bolt- it popped off by itself, other times before I rapped it the puller broke. Lost 2 pullers this way, one the cheap steering wheel triangle type and another the serious robust factory type puller, ugh.
There is no force transmitting to bearings by rapping on the center bolt and all the area should need is a shock vibration to break the Van derWall's and hydrogen bonding ionic forces of the tapper interface which are a lot weaker than actual chemical or mechanical bonds like rust and pitting.

There is probably an INOA or NOC chapter near you, depending on where you live. Aside from gleaning a certain amount of knowledge and hard earned experience they would be willing to share with you, you can probably borrow the pricey and seldom used tools too.

http://inoanorton.com/Chapters/

I picked up one of these a few years ago and they work great. I use it every time I need to lock the primary. Wedges between the chain and sprocket. The crank nut on my Sportster needed to be torqued to 250 ft/# and it even held that.
Really handy if you don't have the rear wheel on and can't lock the brake.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Primary-Drive-L ... 0f&vxp=mtr

concours said:

Remember, the OP stated he wants to remove the engine/cradle from frame from powder coating. Timing side need not be disturbed. (as yet, he doesn't know the depths of his wallet the project will explore!)

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Best quote ever so far on these boards. I have a couple of project bikes I started over the winter, and now the Norton I just bought. I thought I would get by for a few thousand on the first one, and even that would outstrip value...the only thing I can say is the Norton parts prices are not too bad...but...when you start replacing everything it adds up quick