Group 19, plate no. 11, Valve, p/n- 061944. a soft-ist rubber top hat shape with pin hole in middle. First experiment on Peel gave almost as much improvement in effort and feel as the 13 mm seleeving my Ken Armand. Then went through Trixie already knowing a drill mostly useless compared to at least pencil lead size nail melted thru. Its not a transformation in handling like the rump rod but it definitely puts tire squeal and lock up back into normal human grip range. There may be way better anti-fade set ups and less grip leverage by upping hydraulic ratio, but not more ability to slow and stop to the max allowed by tire and surface.
I now suspect piston pressure forces the rubber valve to squeeze down on its IO as much as force fluid pressure to the caliper. I was scared to open it up at first then realized non of the upgrades even had a restrictor, so no worry reason.
i suspect that it was way to mimic drum performance for some reason we can discuss till cows lose in the road.
Norton ratio is ~17:1, moderns ~25-27:1, 13mm m/cylinder ~19:1, 12 mm ~21:1.
I almost got out of obsolete lagging performance Commandos after my SV650 at home and NInja at corner school, as Ozarks are a mecca like the Dragons Tail to exercise a bike and pilots capacity. On first few months of pre-Peel Combat I almost got killed trying to follow moderns into sweepers after being fooled in the very close chicanes. Being a speed demon-G force addict with a twinge of competitiveness, I got very depressed thinking all the time and money I'd wasted just restoring pre-Ms Peel so didn't leak or have major items crank to head found unusable. That no way on God's Green Earth could she expect to keep up with the hot shot squads that pass through. So depressed - only model I had - make it a hard bagger short shifting hog-like potato-ing quaint cruiser,
for 1st cautious 1000 miles breaking drive train and engine run in.
Was so so depressed with all the crowd zinging past me on each trip, the day arrived to go ahead and blow her up and rid Norton finally out of my system for the likes of Ducati Monster or GSX-R750-1000 - I held WOT heartlessly till hit 6000's and extra piston kicked in and about ran TF out from under rather harder pull than my SV650 or NInja could tolerate w/o climbing to sky. They I worked up to hi power tighter and tighter corner zings till reaching level of Ninja on race rubber and track - yet had none of their lost of control sense - but not yet blown up- so got her in states that caused severe upsets in sport bike To NAIL WOT at peg scrapping leans and nothing happened but went Way Faster Around.
AMAZED as much as frustrated it didn't blow up or go out of control - I went in harder and harder till so fast in such tights no human way to turn forks or change lean in time before flying off the bluff face wagon trail highway into new zones of speed and control I'd never conceived, or seen done. It took no athletics but strong grip to hold onto bars and work throttle fast and far enough only the rear tire patch had to be paid any attention, as rest took care of itself AutoMagically!
So now I know I've got the most effective tool in the world to spank anything but another Commando set up similar to Peel, just need way more power to spank the Commando based racers in the opens and likely 200 hp bikes up to 160 or so.
Fat as those rear meats may look, they still have similar patch print size but not the shape to handle real corner loads. Same with braking, not any real advantage but less force to squeal, but are like Acetaphetamine-Tylenol, the effective dose it just below the deadly toxic dose. Not so Norton front disc, ABS like on hi speed panic pull downs and instant lock w/o white knuckles below 55-60 mph.
I've had city traffic crisis and almost crashed by too much front brake, so had to let go to re-grip then feather proper squeal stop in time.
Rest of you can keep your crippled corner and brake performance, Peel has left the vintage building and hot rod arena for whole new orbits of performance.
I actively hunted down elites to embarrass - but only ran hard with the ones I had prior discussion with on what the rules are and not risk life doing stupid excesses on mere joy rides. I"m sure there are better Cdo brakes than modifed Peel Lockeheed and more powerful in any way measured than Ms Peel, but not the abilty to use most of that advantage in leans and then not enough to catch up in opens unless over 1/10 mile space with almost that much extra for them to SLOW up enough to tolerate the chicanes at the end of the straights. Litterally I would run up on elite sports groups all tucked down and sticking knees out, while sitting upright jacket flapping milk crate full of cargo, watching their antics a few miles, then get bored to get on home and zip around them in openss they were too scared to match as there were real turns coming up too quck for them, yet Peel was still in non race just fun daily commute mode.
The un-tamed Isolastic wonderful chassis is the Main Limiting factor of Commando's. With rump link and helpers, good fork stability even stock engine Commando's can hook up more power and speed than best of the world.
I've ridden behind good loaded touring 850's with my SV650 and was scared to try to keep them in sight. I would had to max out SV power and my skills to over take in the opens or longer sweepers, risking life and limb for a little advantage.
So a well fettered Cod is pretty good to start with but can lead you into death zone if pressing just a bit more into what moderns can handle - just before they go even more nutzo than a hinging Cdo.
My only claim to fame is I'm Gravel Trained so know how much each bike can upset to self recover and never let bike get ahead of me so that brakes are needed. If you go around as fast as I can now, you must enter loss of traction at one end or the other or tank slap chassis reactions. On every other bike I have to watch out how hard to press before going out of control, on Peel I always wonder if I can even press hard enough to un-hook into next handling zone.
On over bikes I'm holding back fearing what I know is lurkikng suddenly, On Peel I am fearless knowing there is no end to how fast and sharp she can go around,
ONLY fear is some unseen hazard so no way to stop or avoid.
NEVER TRAIL BRAKE - unless going so slow engine drag could do as well.
ALWAYS ONLY HARD BRAKE - while straight ahead and upright.
You may shoot almost into on coming lane or off road edge before slow enough to spike a very sharp turn in time, but bikes, Cdo's included can take these instant hi spikes traction on tire to line back up with path to finish braking or get back on power - with new limit programed to the bone marrow.
You have way more chance in crisis to maneuver around than stop short at speed.
You also have some control to arrange impact for best out come if it come down to it. Never apply any brake on loose stuff at crawling speed unless front is perfectly lined up with rear. Or SPLAT. I cross mud and gravel flows in turns by going straight up over them till last instant to careful flick back on path.
Video someday of riding locked front a few bike lengths on Peel, other Cdo's scar me too much swapping ends uncontrollably. So with my tippy SV - pashaw.
While yo'll are always wondering how to keep up with sports bikes, I'm wondering how much further I can leave em in my dust within a few seconds.
,ive been super busy with school and other things. so now im looking for a disk break front end so I dont have to worry about not stoping when cuts me off.I have a 1971 norton commando 750. its got the standard drum and stock tripple tree. what is a good and cheap conversion? is there anyone that knows of videos or manuals that show u a step by step guide? thanks for the help in advance. 
