Digital info screen.

Britfan60

Britfan60

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Jan 5, 2014
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I always reset the T (trip) to zero when refueling. After being on the road for about 18 miles, it reset to zero. Then I couldn't scroll through the various info screens. When turning on the ignition switch, it would stay on "UNIT" for a few minutes before going back to trip. However, still couldn't scroll after a few 5 minute breaks. Had lunch.....30 minutes, it was fine. Any suggestions? I once had it reset to zero a few times after it sat at the dealership for 6 months and someone suggested the battery could be running low, but after a charge and daily battery tender, it stopped. Also, no issue at that time with the scrolling. I've also been experiencing an intermittent low idle and stall when the bike is heated up, but the bike started and ran great all day today. Did about 70 miles with a few stops.
 
I would bet that you washed your bike before you experienced the "UNIT" showing up on your display. Or was the bike out in the rain?
... no worries, I had this several times, but always went back to normal when dried off.
Raphi, Switzerland
 
Raphi said:
I would bet that you washed your bike before you experienced the "UNIT" showing up on your display. Or was the bike out in the rain?
... no worries, I had this several times, but always went back to normal when dried off.
Raphi, Switzerland
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Actually no. I wipe my bike down after most rides. Hasn't seen water in months. Seems like that would make sense though. It did happen right after cracking it up to 100 mph for a minute or two though.. :twisted:
 
Strange. Is it possible your bike gets a short circuit at the charging cable?
 
Took the bike out Wednesday with a full tank. She runs great in the cold. Again, the Trip meter reset to zero at about 20 miles and unable to scroll to time, volt, odo. etc. for a bit. Then normal again. Wish I knew what causes this. I'm sure if I went to the dealer they would come up with "unable to duplicate, no defect found". How long could I expect them to ride around until it possibly happens again? Anybody else experiencing this?
 
Gotta be a short in the cluster acting like you are holding the button in. Use my manual to remove the clusters and see if there is anything loose in there. Hope this helps.
 
Thanks, Richard. I was thinking it may be the button itself making contact to reset it.
 
Could be. The way to access that menu is to hold the button when turning on the key which leads me to believe the cluster is blacking out and then on again. Electrical gremlins are the worst to diagnose.
 
I am searching for some time now to find the reason for an electrical gremlin on my bike which makes the engine run very poor for a minute or two from time to time. It is like the kill switch was pressed and released again very quickly for several times per second...
Up to now I changed the kill switch, the cam sensor, the ignition coil and the spark plugs. I changed as well the complete number plate illumination (LED) because the old one's (also LED) connections showed corrosion. Recently I changed the charging cable of the lithium ion battery I have. The plug of the charging cable was oxidized. I will check in the next days if this helped now. It might also be the EURO3 module that older bikes have to control tilt, side stand and neutral position. May be I have to remove the cluster as well to check for anything strange with the wiring in it...
 
richard-7 said:
Could be. The way to access that menu is to hold the button when turning on the key which leads me to believe the cluster is blacking out and then on again. Electrical gremlins are the worst to diagnose.
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The readout stays on. Everything stays the same. Time, odo., volts. Just the trip resets. When it does that, I can't scroll for a while, then it corrects itself. OR says UNIT for a minute and then goes back. It was once suggested that it indicates low battery. It did that after picking it up from the dealership after 6 months., not kept on a tender. Put it on a tender, rode it, it was fine for a few thousand miles. Its back. I'm going to change the battery even though the bike fires right up. No big deal. It is 3 years old. The tender is only .75 amp. I could try using a 2 amp charge for a few hours to see what happens.
 
Raphi said:
I am searching for some time now to find the reason for an electrical gremlin on my bike which makes the engine run very poor for a minute or two from time to time. It is like the kill switch was pressed and released again very quickly for several times per second...
Up to now I changed the kill switch, the cam sensor, the ignition coil and the spark plugs. I changed as well the complete number plate illumination (LED) because the old one's (also LED) connections showed corrosion. Recently I changed the charging cable of the lithium ion battery I have. The plug of the charging cable was oxidized. I will check in the next days if this helped now. It might also be the EURO3 module that older bikes have to control tilt, side stand and neutral position. May be I have to remove the cluster as well to check for anything strange with the wiring in it...
Click to expand...
The bike seems to run now, at least in the workshop. I installed and tested a new EURO3 module today (different style than the old one). I hope it will still be okay when I can go on the road again...
 
Hi,
I have also hard an issue with the trip meter resetting itself back to zero while riding.
This happened several times on one ride and again on the last short trip.

The other functions are fine, volts, time and odometer.
On the first occasion there was rain but not on the second ride.

Have you made any progress on diagnosing the issue?

Did the new EURO3 module make any difference?

Mark
 
Hi. I have a 2016 sport and have always struggled to understand the gremlins in the info screen. The clock (time) has a complete mind of its own, you can set it turn off the bike secure in the knowledge that on your next outing the time will be correct only to find its completely different when you start up. Like you I reset the trip on every fill up.(I do not trust the fuel warning light) every so often the trip will add or subtract, all depends how it feels, mileage. It mostly reverts back to the true figure. However it can be disconcerting and I do find myself opening the fuel cap for a recheck or prematurely filling up. There was a remedy supplied by the factory in the shape of a link wire??? It was originally to solve the problem of the neutral light flashing on and off as you were riding but it should have also solved any other issues with the screen, when my bike went in for a re-map, they fitted it. I no longer have a flashing neutral light but still have a irrational clock and a mixed up trip. I love the bike now that's its been re-mapped so I just ride it ignoring the time and trying my upmost to remember just how far I've been between fill ups.
Mark.
 
The new EURO3 module works but the problem seems to be a defective head temp sensor. I can tell when I have my bike back...
 
We've had a lot of head temp sensor issues on bikes. We suspect its either done at install by accidentally breaking the wire inside and not realizing how delicate they are. Or after the fact because someone checks if its loose and then breaks it.
 
richard-7 said:
We've had a lot of head temp sensor issues on bikes. We suspect its either done at install by accidentally breaking the wire inside and not realizing how delicate they are. Or after the fact because someone checks if its loose and then breaks it.
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How readily available are these components? I feel as though I should stock up before mine has a problem.
 
Got the head temp sensor very quickly last time. The price was around 20 bucks.
 
Easy to get. Chances of failure on its own is very low. If its good from factory and you don't bump or twist it when cleaning, you may never have to replace it.
 
richard-7 said:
Easy to get. Chances of failure on its own is very low. If its good from factory and you don't bump or twist it when cleaning, you may never have to replace it.
Click to expand...

Okay - cool. :D
 
The factory told me it was the button, however, with a new battery, it hasn't reset for hundreds of miles except the few days I forgot to hook up the tender. With the old week battery, it would reset and freeze every 30-50 miles or so. Coincidence?? Maybe
 
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