Difficult Rear Wheel Installation

Was just wondering if I'm not alone when it comes to installing the rear wheel and getting that axle spacer all in between the rear swing arm. It seems there isn't not enough room. Usually have to use a adjustable cresent wrench above the axle bolt to help spread the one swing arm tube just to get the spacer in. Thought about cutting about 1/8" off of the spacer just to make it easy to get the rear wheel in.

All the components in the brake drum, paddles fully inserted, and speedo gearbox all properly installed.

Are you sure all you bearings, spacers and locking ring are all FULLY inserted and nipped up? It should be a nice snug fit without prying.

with the old cush parts mine wasn't too hard, when i replaced them with new it took some motivating for the first time (think thats "normal")

They are all too close for easy slip in but when everything ship shape its not too much fuss fumble. There can be a spacing hang up in where the stub axle DS spacer abuts the brake plate so wheel hub can't seat cushions fully but not a cushion area problem. Cushions fit can resist full seating, the swing arms may be a tad too close. i put rag or something under tire to get to axle level, install speedo+ its top hat spacer I've found missing on mine, pull long axle backwards enough to get the big spacer in the spdo recess then move forward and should just slip in by hand though I've often had to bump the bugger in before getting all the above dialed in over time and again Commando geometry lesions. Should be about 1/4" drum-hub gap for spacer to fit in like sensible designers intended.

Normal.

grandpaul said:

Are you sure all you bearings, spacers and locking ring are all FULLY inserted and nipped up? It should be a nice snug fit without prying.

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Believe so. And only have one NM E5276 washer between the Dummy Axle and the Cover Plate. Unless there is one bearing not fully inserted. I refurbished the swing arm to the newer reinforce type and at the same time bought a new Brake Drum and replaced the 3 wheel bearings. New bearings measured the same size from original. New rubber cush rubbers. However, on the new Brake Drum I compared it to my original 72 Brake Drum there is a 3/16" round protusion of the 3 paddle studs and that may be the reason. Maybe. :?: The older Brake Drum paddles went flush to the drum. However the centers of the Hub and Brake Drum are mated and touching each other.

Wheel spins ok. I may take the wheel off after I torque the axel nuts a few times per instructions and try to refit. Even with the original OEM set up, it was such a "pain in the ass" to get that wheel and spacer on. :x I measured the distance between the ends on both swing arms and the newer reinforced type seem a little wider than the original. Well, I'll get to the bottom of this as I was wondering if anybody else has this problem.

Did you refit the bearing spacer with the longer nose to the right hand side? If not that can be your problem.

ML said:

Did you refit the bearing spacer with the longer nose to the right hand side? If not that can be your problem.

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Yes, made sure of that. Have yet to remove the rear wheel and do a re-fitment.

I have never been able to fit it alone without an assistant to pull the right swing arm just enough

travelerjerry said:

ML said:

Did you refit the bearing spacer with the longer nose to the right hand side? If not that can be your problem.

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Yes, made sure of that. Have yet to remove the rear wheel and do a re-fitment.

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I agree you've got a problem and pulling the wheel out is the proper thing to do. Something is not right. The correct assembly allows a one person wheel install. With the hub rubbers fully seated, the wheel shoud butt up true to the brake hub, the speedo drive is then placed on an rotated until the drive pegs engage. That slips it inwards a little. Then fit the spacer, and yes it is an interference fit, tap it with a bar until it is inline and concentric to the speedo centre and shove the axle through. Make sure you do not have any unneccsary washers or shims adjacent to the speedo drive.

1up3down said:

oh god almighty, leave well enough alone?

why in the world would you now remove the rear wheel and do it all over again?

I have never been able to fit it alone without an assistant to pull the right swing arm just enough

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Ditto. Unless it feels as if something is binding in there.

Rear wheel & brake drum coming off. Noticed the hub and brake drum not mated fully. Getting a one side wobble as I spin the wheel. Sh*t :x Have to recheck everything again. Have to see if the left hand spacer is fully inserted or something else. Will post progress later on.

There's nothing to hang up the drum - hub mating but stuff inside the drum side. Just got throught this out of the blue hang up fitting hub to drum on Trixie, then found the bearing finally rusted and bustted up to push its circlip out of its groove then prevent close mating easy RH spacer fitting until drum bore bored out for the new size replacement so circlip stays in and wheel installs with normal one man efforts. Those that need two people to do the job just imagine the times I've wised for a 2nd hand help fix flats by myself on lonely road sides. Don't any of you get road side tire jobs once or twice a year? When its set up correct with good parts as factory intended it actually works as intended - a hassle saver not to have to align hold and fit drum and chain too like my modern SV650.

Hi Jerry,

Had an identical problem a few years ago at the final stages of my Mk3 rebuild. As per usual, Les and the lads on the board bailed me out; they were out in their garages at midnight feeding me dimensions.

mounting-the-rear-wheel-the-mk3-t3692.html?hilit=rear%20wheel

The distance between my swing arm paddles was too tight by nearly 1/8". No problem as far as wheel allignment or function was concerned, but it was really a bitch to mount. I found that a bit of precision levering (crowbar) was helpful.

Just experienced this after installing some fresh Avon's. I found that if you tighten the nut on the gear box spindle (left side) it pulls the cush drive in quite a bit allowing a much easier fit.

Tundra Dweller said:

Just experienced this after installing some fresh Avon's. I found that if you tighten the nut on the gear box spindle (left side) it pulls the cush drive in quite a bit allowing a much easier fit.

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OK, you have me completely comfused ( and it doesn't take much). How would tightening that bolt help? Could you give me a part number your tightening?

Is that a real Norton brake drum or a pirate part ?
Mine was a pirate part and a bastard to fit until I got the tool out and modified it.

Diablouph said:

Tundra Dweller said:

Just experienced this after installing some fresh Avon's. I found that if you tighten the nut on the gear box spindle (left side) it pulls the cush drive in quite a bit allowing a much easier fit.

Click to expand...

OK, you have me completely comfused ( and it doesn't take much). How would tightening that bolt help? Could you give me a part number your tightening?

Click to expand...

My '75 has a rear disc brake hence the speedo drive is on the left side. Tightening the stud from this side pulls the cush drive into the swing arm a bit more allowing more clearance between the swing arm tabs to ease installation of the wheel, spacer etc.