Seeking rear wheel installation hints.

The bike's a Mk2A
I am specifically looking for tips & tricks on how to put the final RHS spacer in.
It appears I need to spread the swingarm by about 2-3mm.
I have pounded the drum into the crush as far as I can (dry) but I can see it's not quite home.
I've only removed the drum once before (about 3 years ago) and I recall it was a basterd then.
Maybe someone has ideas on how to make it easier.
I have it assembled except for that #%$*# spacer!
Cheers

I do it like this....

Bonzo said:

I do it like this....

Click to expand...

Thanks Bonzo, but there's no way mine will go in like that!
I'm thinking of removing the wheel and using rubber grease on the cush - but it might just make it harder.
Also thinking of making a "swingarm spreader tool" to go through the spokes in front of the hub.
Sheesh!

Machine 2mm off the spacer, I had to do that to make the Commando wheel fit the Featherbed swing arm, not sure how much I had to do as it's been over 44 years ago now.

Somewhere here someone suggested hand sanitizer because its slippery and evaporates. I've used it for the rear wheel (your issue) and putting handlebar grips on, worked really well.

I had similar problem. Ended up putting a screw jack between arms and jacking it apart until i increased the width by 2-3mm. Made it so much easier to get the spacer in. Sounds rough but it works! Graham.

robs ss said:

Thanks Bonzo, but there's no way mine will go in like that!
I'm thinking of removing the wheel and using rubber grease on the cush - but it might just make it harder.
Also thinking of making a "swingarm spreader tool" to go through the spokes in front of the hub.
Sheesh!

Click to expand...

I do it the same a Bonzo, but I use the wooden handle of a ball peen hammer between the speedo drive and swingarm in front and them push the spacer in form the rear. Once it's in a little, you can push it into place.

Also, I've seen swingarms where the flat part at the rear is bent - they are pretty easy to bend back into place. Check the that two ends are parallel to each other and that they are not both bent. I use a old axle and an old fork tube to bend them back. I know I have a picture but can't find it

If you can install the spacer when the hub dampers are not installed , its those dampers causing the issue. Relieve them until the hub fingers go in easy. Forcibly spreading the swing can bend it (especially early ones)

I ended up getting it in.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
I don't have an OEM speedo drive - it's one of Matt's special nuts, with six "domes", to suit the inductive pick-up.
I ended up making a piece of 3mm aluminium plate to fit over three of the sensor "domes" then used a piece of 3/4" x 1 1/2" timber to lever between that plate and the rear of the swingarm. Will label those bits for next time.
Cheers!

Well you learn something new every day lol as I see it, there is always a solution to anything when you put your mind to it. Ashley

ashman said:

Well you learn something new every day lol as I see it, there is always a solution to anything when you put your mind to it. Ashley

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Yep!
In the 5 years I have had this bike I've only removed the drum one other time, so this aspect is still relatively new to me.
I'll be better prepared next time.

..BTW, I did consider making a short "axle" purely to pull the drum home in the cush, while the wheel was off.
May still do that with a piece of all threaded bar.
Cheers

I modified the hub so that I can put the cush in from the outside.
It makes wheel installation much easier, but more importantly:
I can change them by the road side.
One quick descent of an Alpine pass can completely wipe out the std cush rubbers.
First put in the fat drive side rubbers, then compress them with a large screwdriver to install the thin ones.
I don't have a 'Commando' wheel on my Commando, but I have two wheels for my N15, so that I always have one with a fresh tire ready.

ludwig said:

I modified the hub so that I can put the cush in from the outside.
It makes wheel installation much easier, but more importantly:
I can change them by the road side.
One quick descent of an Alpine pass can completely wipe out the std cush rubbers.
First put in the fat drive side rubbers, then compress them with a large screwdriver to install the thin ones.
I don't have a 'Commando' wheel on my Commando, but I have two wheels for my N15, so that I always have one with a fresh tire ready.

Click to expand...

Thanks Ludwig!
I'll do that on my 650ss first. Has a Commando rear hub because the Bob Newby clutch (belt) has no cush.
Great idea!
Cheers

robs ss said:

The bike's a Mk2A
I am specifically looking for tips & tricks on how to put the final RHS spacer in.
It appears I need to spread the swingarm by about 2-3mm.
I have pounded the drum into the crush as far as I can (dry) but I can see it's not quite home.
I've only removed the drum once before (about 3 years ago) and I recall it was a basterd then.
Maybe someone has ideas on how to make it easier.
I have it assembled except for that #%$*# spacer!
Cheers

Click to expand...

We’re talking cNw #134 yes?
Are you referring to installing the sensor/spacer as shown here?

If so it is a bit of a bugger, you have to force/slide it over the screw heads on the octagonal part

If so no need to pry the swingarm or machine anything. It took me a while to figure it out too, no force or tools necessary, there’s enough give for it to pop in but best from lower right pushing upwards rather than risk chipping the powder coat on the top.

You may recall I also struggled with setting the drum brake up without a knocking sound when spinning the wheel. Matt’s method did the job and now have a pretty effective rear brake:

From Matt,

“As far as rear wheel tightening, this is how I prefer to do it. Not saying its per the book, but it works for me. This is assuming the right side axle was pulled out and you are just re-installing the rear wheel assembly.

1. Insert/tighten the right side first to make sure its properly engaged in the stubby, left side, axle. Do not tighten all the way. The left side nut is loose during this since it floats and this will make it easier for the right side axle to engage.

2. Tighten the left nut all the way. This will secure the brake assembly against the swing arm and then tighten the right axle all the way. This will drive the sprocket pins into the hub and seat them.

4. Loosen the right axle slightly.

5. Loosen the left side nut some and spin the rear wheel rapidly. Apply rear brake and hold firm while tightening the left nut again. What this process will do is allow the brake shoes to center the brake drum/sprocket over the shoes. Since the rear hub/sprocket is essentially floating, this is important to make sure the drum/sprocket is not off center

6. Tighten the right side all the way.

So its a bit of a process side to side but because of the two piece axle and the floating drum, you just want to make sure things are seated and centered”

Of course if you have a single spindle mod ignore the above.

Café au Lait said:

We’re talking cNw #134 yes?
Are you referring to installing the sensor/spacer as shown here?


Of course if you have a single spindle mod ignore the above.

Click to expand...

Yep - cNw #134, and it is that spacer with the sensor and I have the single piece axle!
BTW - I think my idea in post #12 achieves the same intent as Matt's method.
ie: pull the drum "in" with significant force.

ludwig said:

One quick descent of an Alpine pass can completely wipe out the std cush rubbers.

Click to expand...

Never happened to me on any Alpine pass however I do know there are different quality cush rubbers offered around for many years. The original Andover Norton cush rubbers are black and are made of tough durable material (eventually they do wear out also) but imitation cush rubbers I have experienced in my workshop were greyish and disintegrate very quickly! Easy to determine if your cush rubbers are still ok, just press your rear brake pedal and try to rotate your rear wheel back and forth. No movement, your cush rubbers are still fine, movement means examination of the cush rubbers

Maybe I 've read this some where on this forum, but I first refit the wheel without the speedo drive and fully tighten the spindle.

This seems to seat the cush drive rubbers easily without having to spread the swinging arm apart, then I hold the wheel in situ and remove the spindle, fit the speedo drive and refit the spindle.

All sweat free (normally).

Skoti said:

Maybe I 've read this some where on this forum, but I first refit the wheel without the speedo drive and fully tighten the spindle.

This seems to seat the cush drive rubbers easily without having to spread the swinging arm apart, then I hold the wheel in situ and remove the spindle, fit the speedo drive and refit the spindle.

All sweat free (normally).

Click to expand...

Great idea. I don't have that type of speedo drive but it would be easy for me to make a shorter spacer to snug up the cush, then replace it with the proper one.
Thanks!

ashman said:

Machine 2mm off the spacer, I had to do that to make the Commando wheel fit the Featherbed swing arm, not sure how much I had to do as it's been over 44 years ago now.

Click to expand...

Ashman
This is a Commando frame and not a Featherbed.