Déjà vu all over again - Gearbox Oil Leak at Kick Start

Status
Not open for further replies.
Ugh, Cdo's are like aircraft, usually takes more wrenching hours than riding hours to keep one nice and neat. The factory oil ring groove is a few 1000'sths too deep so a thin shim in from of cig foil or similar placed in groove to push o ring tighter on shaft and then light oil/grease the oil ring and shaft and then thin smear of RTV around shaft, then slip it together-assemble and leave it sit over night for best non machining way to stop the oil weep-leaks at the kicker. I've compared above with Annover machined in oil seal to find them both seal as well with mere hints of oil weep film but no mess or drips. Might be able to find a tad thicker O-ring at hardware but I've not looked so far. Keep in mind I run ATF in my AMC's to seal.

You might be able to even up the case bore w/o machining by J BWeld and some masking and greasing and slipping parts together over night to set up then trim and clean as required. JBWeld will soften up with boiling and higher heat so not a permanent grip to over come if heated up to over boiling which is a non issue to the Al cases. i'd try a supermagnet to pull with once heated to oil smoking. Don't heat the magnet that hot of course.

BTW. one or two oil pump nipples can be shoved up tach drive snout w/o machining to get similar oil sealing as dual stacked machined in oil seals.
 
You guys who are using JB Weld on bushings, how do you get them out when the bush needs replacing?
 
BrianK said:
You guys who are using JB Weld on bushings, how do you get them out when the bush needs replacing?

We hope we get old and die before they need replaced. :mrgreen:
 

We hope we get old and die before they need replaced. :mrgreen:[/quote]

Speak for yourself.

Dave
69S
 
Hortons Norton said:
Hate to say it but it looks as if the cover is worn. You say there was no bushing?

Yes that is what I thought originally as well; however the roughness is raised rather than gouged. I’m guessing that somebody (Dave you ever been in Edinburgh? :D ) in the passed has put JB weld or similar on and it has squeezed out between the end of the bush and the start of the oil seal causing this raised lip. My problem is I don’t know how to get rid of it. If I heat it will it soften again or do I have to try and carefully file it down?

Thanks
McVic
 
If its hi temp JBW then may take oil smoke temps ~400'f to soften it to scrap down or remove. You could creep up on the heat say with a flame and see when its workable. Tends turn to gritty stiff putty like plumbing caulk. Also the stuff is magnetic and might pull off when heated as JBW don't chemically bond just mechanically.
 
hobot said:
If its hi temp JBW then may take oil smoke temps ~400'f to soften it to scrap down or remove. You could creep up on the heat say with a flame and see when its workable. Tends turn to gritty stiff putty like plumbing caulk. Also the stuff is magnetic and might pull off when heated as JBW don't chemically bond just mechanically.

This is exactly the info I need. As it stands it is cutting into the oil seal so needs to be sorted. Fact that it’s magnetic might be useful.

thanks Pal
McVic
 
pvisseriii said:
swooshdave said:
So I ordered this part from RockAuto.com. It was cheaper to order it than pick it up from a local supplier.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1118349

$2.24 plus $2.29 for shipping first class USPS. Finally someone with reasonable shipping for small parts. $4.53 was cheaper than the local place that wanted $6.24.
I have not leaked a drop in two years since I put this seal in mine. This is in lue of numourous times of have that outer cover off and the rebuild this winter. It was not needed to change the seal for this rebuild. It really really works and maintains the original integrity of the cover. Literally a 15 minute procedure. Well, maybe a half hour.

I bought the same seal from rock auto and it is to big for the cover by .015".
So, how did you get yours in?
I am using a socket to drift it in. No way
 
Guido said:
pvisseriii said:
swooshdave said:
So I ordered this part from RockAuto.com. It was cheaper to order it than pick it up from a local supplier.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1118349

$2.24 plus $2.29 for shipping first class USPS. Finally someone with reasonable shipping for small parts. $4.53 was cheaper than the local place that wanted $6.24.
I have not leaked a drop in two years since I put this seal in mine. This is in lue of numourous times of have that outer cover off and the rebuild this winter. It was not needed to change the seal for this rebuild. It really really works and maintains the original integrity of the cover. Literally a 15 minute procedure. Well, maybe a half hour.

I bought the same seal from rock auto and it is to big for the cover by .015".
So, how did you get yours in?
I am using a socket to drift it in. No way

Dunno, it pushed right in by hand. Don't force it. You're going from the inside of the cover and not the outside, right? :mrgreen:
 
I measured the bore in the cover and it is 1" .242"
The seal's OD is 1".256" and that's what the rockauto site spec'ed it out as.
So, not sure what year your bike is or if it fits only a certain year but it don't fit mine.
Plus mine is a all metal casing seal and does not look like the one on the web site.
I just put the old oring back in until I get the cover machined.
Bummed out
 
Guido said:
I measured the bore in the cover and it is 1" .242"
The seal's OD is 1".256" and that's what the rockauto site spec'ed it out as.
So, not sure what year your bike is or if it fits only a certain year but it don't fit mine.
Plus mine is a all metal casing seal and does not look like the one on the web site.
I just put the old oring back in until I get the cover machined.
Bummed out

What size is your bushing?
 
I had to replace the kickstart pawl and decided to also replace the kickstart shaft seal as it was leaking a little bit. I used this thread for reference as to the seal size and ordered 2 from rock auto (Timken #240731). When they came I found that they are smaller than the existing seal. I should have measured before I ordered. The Timken measures 1" (id) x 1 1/4" (od) x 1/8" wide. The existing seal measures 1" (id) x 1 7/16" (od) x 1/4" wide, as best as I can measure it still in the outer cover. The seal has a wider lip than the Timken, maybe a double lip and the machining is on the outside of the case so the seal can be inserted from the outside. The PO must have must have machined it differently or had someone else do the work. My question is does anyone know of this modification and what seal I can use? I am reluctant to try to get the existing one out as I will most likely destroy it and may not be able to find a replacement, and it is only leaking a little bit now.
 
The easy fix is to replace the kickstart Oring with an oversize viton Oring. 1/8' cross section with 1-1/8" ID and your problem is over. Take a wooden dowel rod or anything and work it in - it will fit. The extra rubber will provide the seal. I used to use a quad seal here but the oversize viton oring works best.
 
After finally getting my crankcase leakage under control by adding a reeed breather, my attention turned to the gear box which had a kickstart leak. I used the X-ring replacement for the O-ring and there's no more leaak. It's weird not having leaks....
 
needing: That is the seal that I now have 2 of and is the right one for everyone that has an unmolested outer gearbox cover. Mine has been modified to hold a larger outside diameter seal, which is what I am trying to find the part number of. The outside of the cover at the kickstart shaft has been machined away completely to a larger diameter. There is no outside face left. The larger seal is inserted from the outside in this modification. The smaller seal you specify will not work in this case.

jseng1: I may try what you suggest. It looks like there is just enough room between the existing seal lip and the kickstart shaft bushing to hold a fat O ring. If it could seal against both the existing seal lip and the kickstart shaft, it should work. The existing seal lip on the outside end and the bushing on the inside end would hold it in place.
 
mightydaj said:
I had to replace the kickstart pawl and decided to also replace the kickstart shaft seal as it was leaking a little bit. I used this thread for reference as to the seal size and ordered 2 from rock auto (Timken #240731). When they came I found that they are smaller than the existing seal. I should have measured before I ordered. The Timken measures 1" (id) x 1 1/4" (od) x 1/8" wide. The existing seal measures 1" (id) x 1 7/16" (od) x 1/4" wide, as best as I can measure it still in the outer cover. The seal has a wider lip than the Timken, maybe a double lip and the machining is on the outside of the case so the seal can be inserted from the outside. The PO must have must have machined it differently or had someone else do the work. My question is does anyone know of this modification and what seal I can use? I am reluctant to try to get the existing one out as I will most likely destroy it and may not be able to find a replacement, and it is only leaking a little bit now.

Hi mightydaj.
Maybe try: Timken 240414 or 330414 or 350414 (prefix is the seal type)
Ta.
Ref: http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/se ... s/7707.pdf
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top