Custom Wiring

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I see you are using only one relay for the headlight, while it will work OK, the basic idea behind the relays is to take power from the battery trough a fuse and run it directly to the relay which is close to the headlight while avoiding any other possible bad contact.

Also, you are using a single fuse, if that goes and you don't have a spare or you can fix the short, you walk. It would be better to fuse the ignition separately from everything else.

Jean
 
Jeandr said:
I see you are using only one relay for the headlight, while it will work OK, the basic idea behind the relays is to take power from the battery trough a fuse and run it directly to the relay which is close to the headlight while avoiding any other possible bad contact.

Also, you are using a single fuse, if that goes and you don't have a spare or you can fix the short, you walk. It would be better to fuse the ignition separately from everything else.

Jean
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I was thinking a double pole relay for the headlight, would that be right? Just didn't know how to diagram it. :mrgreen:

And if you remember from the other thread, I was going to think about using one of the fuse panels.
 
Whatever you do, please buy a decent ratchet type crimper, with the right sized jaws for the connectors you'll be using. Yep, they're more expensive, but they'll give a consistent and reliable crimp every time. It will pay off in the long run. Trust me. My 2c.
 
swooshdave said:
Jeandr said:
I see you are using only one relay for the headlight, while it will work OK, the basic idea behind the relays is to take power from the battery trough a fuse and run it directly to the relay which is close to the headlight while avoiding any other possible bad contact.

Also, you are using a single fuse, if that goes and you don't have a spare or you can fix the short, you walk. It would be better to fuse the ignition separately from everything else.

Jean
Click to expand...

I was thinking a double pole relay for the headlight, would that be right? Just didn't know how to diagram it. :mrgreen:

And if you remember from the other thread, I was going to think about using one of the fuse panels.
Click to expand...

Thinking about doing is not the same as doing :mrgreen: but yes, I remember that you mentionned buying a fuse panel.

A double pole relay will not help, you will still have to go trough the main switch to make sure the headlight is off when the bike is not used which means a potential drop to the headlight. The object of using relays is to only use the switches for low currents and let the relay contacts carry the high currents. My take on this is: if you are using new and better components and a purpose built wiring loom with as few as possible connections relays are overkill, but since you still pkan to put them in, this is my way of wiring the relays for the headlight. As you can see, the switches only carry coil current. The relays must be placed as close to the headlight as possible (inside the headlight shell is a good place).

Custom Wiring


Jean
 
Might want to check out easternbeaver.com too for nice parts to accomplish this and also some ready made relay kits.
 
davamb said:
Whatever you do, please buy a decent ratchet type crimper, with the right sized jaws for the connectors you'll be using. Yep, they're more expensive, but they'll give a consistent and reliable crimp every time. It will pay off in the long run. Trust me. My 2c.
Click to expand...

Can you post a link to a recommended crimper?
 
kwb210 wrote:
swooshdave wrote:
kwb210 wrote:
If you want to borrow them it would be cheap postage to mail them, I won't be needing them for at least 6 months when start on the 1970 basket case. I had lots of wire left over. Can't think of any one run that was over 3 ft.

Just which part of Washington, the state are you in?

I'm in Bellingham, zip is 98229.

Way up there. :mrgreen:

Yup, way up there, in fact I can see Lumby from my window! :wink:
 
Dave,

I rebuilt the loom on my Mk3 last spring. This is an easy and satisfying task, and I recommend it over buying a finished loom. I ordered all of my wire (I stuck with the original code) and connectors from British Wire. I recall being a bit short of the power wires (blue-brown, white, and red) and had an excess of the odd stuff (horn, etc). By the way, 28 gauge is too small for your power runs. In fact, it's a bit flimsy for any use on a Norton. I'd stick to 14-16 gauge for all of the power runs (excluding starter, if that is part of your rebuild). You are using black for ground, which implies a negative-ground system. If this is the case, I would chose red for the unswitched power runs, rather than the positive-ground standard of blue-brown, to avoid confusion later. If you are NOT converting to negative ground, then staying with the standard convention of blue-brown for power and red for ground will again avoid future confusion. Switched power in either configuration is white.

You'll need extra ground wire to service the three (or more) ground points on the bike (headlight shell, rear fender at the tail light, and a large one on the frame near the battery). Connect the three points with a large ground wire or a double run of 14 or 16 gauge. I ran my loom along both sides of the upper frame tube for a smaller and neater package.
 
rick in seattle said:
Dave,

I rebuilt the loom on my Mk3 last spring. This is an easy and satisfying task, and I recommend it over buying a finished loom. I ordered all of my wire (I stuck with the original code) and connectors from British Wire. I recall being a bit short of the power wires (blue-brown, white, and red) and had an excess of the odd stuff (horn, etc). By the way, 28 gauge is too small for your power runs. In fact, it's a bit flimsy for any use on a Norton. I'd stick to 14-16 gauge for all of the power runs (excluding starter, if that is part of your rebuild). You are using black for ground, which implies a negative-ground system. If this is the case, I would chose red for the unswitched power runs, rather than the positive-ground standard of blue-brown, to avoid confusion later. If you are NOT converting to negative ground, then staying with the standard convention of blue-brown for power and red for ground will again avoid future confusion. Switched power in either configuration is white.

You'll need extra ground wire to service the three (or more) ground points on the bike (headlight shell, rear fender at the tail light, and a large one on the frame near the battery). Connect the three points with a large ground wire or a double run of 14 or 16 gauge. I ran my loom along both sides of the upper frame tube for a smaller and neater package.
Click to expand...

Great info. Thanks!

Sorry, I put the wrong description there. It's not "gauge" for the wire, rather it should be "strands".

British 14 strand wire = 18 gauge US
British 28 strand wire = 14 gauge US
British 44 strand wire = 12 gauge US
British 65 strand wire = 10 gauge US

Am I still ok?
 
You're ok.

On your previous thread, you said that you were planning a multiple-fuse block. Rather than isolate the ignition circuit by a dedicated fuse, as Jean stated, it is more important to isolate, through fuses, all the other circuits from the ignition circuit. Whether you fuse the ignition circuit is up to you, but it is important to fuse everything else separately.

I can't recall, are you converting to negative ground?
 
rick in seattle said:
You're ok.

On your previous thread, you said that you were planning a multiple-fuse block. Rather than isolate the ignition circuit by a dedicated fuse, as Jean stated, it is more important to isolate, through fuses, all the other circuits from the ignition circuit. Whether you fuse the ignition circuit is up to you, but it is important to fuse everything else separately.

I can't recall, are you converting to negative ground?
Click to expand...

http://www.manventureoutpost.com/pr...r-%2d-6-Circuit-With-Negative-Bus-(5025).html

Custom Wiring


Something like this. And yes, negative ground.
 
None of this negative ground nonsense for me. Positive Earth, baby! Just like God and Bert Hopwood intended it. :mrgreen: :wink:

Debby
 
You are switching to negative ground, what is involved? And I am asking this with the view that you are doing your own wiring loom not using a stock loom. Maybe there is no difference? I've got my new loom all installed but no battery yet. Can I just switch from positive to negative?
thanks!
Kurt
 
debby said:
None of this negative ground nonsense for me. Positive Earth, baby! Just like God and Bert Hopwood intended it. :mrgreen: :wink:

Debby
Click to expand...

oh and I'm sure your bikes are so pure. Any mukunis lurking around? How about non-Lucas parts?
 
kwb210 said:
You are switching to negative ground, what is involved? And I am asking this with the view that you are doing your own wiring loom not using a stock loom. Maybe there is no difference? I've got my new loom all installed but no battery yet. Can I just switch from positive to negative?
thanks!
Kurt
Click to expand...

uh, not going to answer that one. Yes, switch everything around is the basic answer.
 
As long as you dump the Zenor it's just that simple, switch how the battery is hooked up. But a tag under the seat to draw attention to this fact would be kind. A PODtroinic regulator conversion would take care of the Zenor and the rectifier. If you already have a PODtronic regulator you will need to switch the two wires on that unit as well.
 
debby said:
None of this negative ground nonsense for me. Positive Earth, baby! Just like God and Bert Hopwood intended it. :mrgreen: :wink:

Debby
Click to expand...

Luddite :!:

Jean
 
Jeandr said:
Luddite :!:

Jean
Click to expand...

And proud of it! :mrgreen:

Points, Amals, and all the Lucas electrical components on the 750 - Zener diode, bridge rectifier, 2MC capacitor, all still working perfectly. The ignition switch went bad a few years ago so I replaced it with a replica, but I saved the original so I can repair it one of these days. There was an article about that in the Norton News a while back.

I bought the 850 as a parts bike and it didn't come with any of the electrics. So I bought a Pazon ignition and Sparx alternator kit for it. I have Amals on it too. They work really well for me. Mikuni is a good product but there's no tickler.

Debby
 
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