Cush Drive alert

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Roger Middlebrook said:
Hi All
For those that have a Steve Maney Cush drive please regularly check the outer cover plate in hex counter sunk bolts, mine all came loose and came into contact with the rear swing arm adjuster which caused a nasty accident.
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Had sprocket bolt come loose on a different wheel, but luckily low speed clicking against the swing arm was enough warning to use loctite!
 
Roger Middlebrook said:
I am pleased this has been well recieved and may prevent others losing bits off there buautiful bikes or worse!!

For my situation these bolts were checked evening before race day and confirmed snug. As these bolts are on the rigid side of the crush drive all transmission vibes will end up going through these bolts. So yes once final drive ratio is set loctite would be best security. For my race bike i will be engineering a different bolting arrangement that can be lockwired in pairs.
Interesting however others running these cushdrives have not experienced similar. This may be unique to my engine and frame combination. Leads us back to the other topics on vibrations.
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Roger, ar you saying you remove these screws to change gearing? They should be in with red loctite, as they don't move. Just pull the outer plate off to change sprockets, no need to touch the screws
 
Thanks for the heads up. It seems strange that they all backed out in unison. There must have been a black swan event down there with resonance/vibrations perfectly pitched at undoing screws.
Having said that it would only take one! Will check my set up, (2 of).
 
I check tyre pressures every time I go for a ride on a bike. A friend died in his early twenties. Picked his bike up from a mates house where it had been stored all winter, set off, speed wobble within quarter of a mile..
Tragic loss.
An idiot can generally correct a car around a bend with dodgy tyres/pressures, bikes have two tiny contact patches the size of your nuts, don't take chances. Sorry to go off thread.
 
Never gone down but gone through when MC up front had catastrophic & sudden failure.... Enlightening experience.
 
...and to think of how bald the rear trye would be allowed when I was young. Rears don't last long and neither did the
paycheck. And back then we rode in all weathers.
 
Onder said:
...and to think of how bald the rear trye would be allowed when I was young. Rears don't last long and neither did the
paycheck. And back then we rode in all weathers.
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Aye them were the days when men were men and women liked it that way. 1978 15 miles to work on a cb200 NCB donkey jacket thin gloves and yellow pcv kecks (trousers)and wellies through the yorkshire winters, snow on the ground paddling home sometimes. Must have been mad to set off..
 
FastFred said:
Aye them were the days when men were men and women liked it that way. 1978 15 miles to work on a cb200 NCB donkey jacket thin gloves and yellow pcv kecks (trousers)and wellies through the yorkshire winters, snow on the ground paddling home sometimes. Must have been mad to set off..
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I did all that (albeit a bit further South) on an NVT Rambler*, eventually upgraded to BSA B44 :) (*Gotta keep it in the family!) Earned all my 'bad weather' Brownie points...
 
FastFred said:
Aye them were the days when men were men and women liked it that way. 1978 15 miles to work on a cb200 NCB donkey jacket thin gloves and yellow pcv kecks (trousers)and wellies through the yorkshire winters, snow on the ground paddling home sometimes. Must have been mad to set off..
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Phff, gloves!!, PVC Kecks, luxury, I bet you lived in a house too!
 
You dug out the morning broadsheet from the bin at work and then you wrapped it all around you
and headed out home!
 
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Seeley920 said:
Roger, ar you saying you remove these screws to change gearing? They should be in with red loctite, as they don't move. Just pull the outer plate off to change sprockets, no need to touch the screws
Click to expand...
Yes correct no need to remove these screws to change gearing. Loctirte it is
 
If they do not need removing that often, another dodge could be to file a small notch on the edge of each screw head, then, when the buggers are tight, centre punch the alloy inside the notch.

I know the one in the pick below is not countersunk, but hopefully you get the idea:

Cush Drive alert
 
Hate to see it, why?

It‘s a really effective way of securing fasteners that can’t be lockwired.
 
Yes but at some point they will need to be moved and the damage remains. There are countersunk allens used to
secure the cam bearings on Interceptors. As far as I've seen it was done at the factory. When you need to remove
it can damage the fastener and leaves a ding in the alloy.
I guess it just ruffles my feathers...
 
Onder said:
Yes but at some point they will need to be moved and the damage remains. There are countersunk allens used to
secure the cam bearings on Interceptors. As far as I've seen it was done at the factory. When you need to remove
it can damage the fastener and leaves a ding in the alloy.
I guess it just ruffles my feathers...
Click to expand...

Agreed. Which is why I only suggested it after it transpired that the fasteners seldom need to be removed.

So long as the punching is not done by a gorilla, it’s a viable method and can be repeated many times.
 
I'll not cast aspersions at the punching suggestion because I often done it myself with troublesome fasteners. I'd rather keep all of the bits & pieces where they belong and ride a seedy trollop than a beauty queen..... No tack welding though.
 
Well my training is in aviation so it is either castle nuts or safety wire. I'm not at all against locktite especially if heat will not be involved with the parts.
Steel stop nuts can be relied upon rather than nylocks.
 
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