Cush Drive alert

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Hi All
For those that have a Steve Maney Cush drive please regularly check the outer cover plate in hex counter sunk bolts, mine all came loose and came into contact with the rear swing arm adjuster which caused a nasty accident.
 

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Running over the entire bike nipping up the fasteners was normal regular maintenance in the old days. As an old timer I still do it. It is not unusual to find a few less than as tight as they should be. Locktite is often your friend.
 
Running over the entire bike nipping up the fasteners was normal regular maintenance in the old days. As an old timer I still do it. It is not unusual to find a few less than as tight as they should be. Locktite is often your friend.
Agreed - but "blue" type (for those that might not know)
I might also teach your Grandmother to suck eggs if I have time!
 
...and I should state, just for the record, that nylock nuts and blue loctite are really just insurance that the nut doesn't fall off not
remain fully secured.
 
Hi All
For those that have a Steve Maney Cush drive please regularly check the outer cover plate in hex counter sunk bolts, mine all came loose and came into contact with the rear swing arm adjuster which caused a nasty accident.

waddya mean ‘nasty accident’? Hope it didn’t put you on your arse...?
 
Thanks for the info. I have fitted one of these to my Atlas Domiracer which will be on the road soon.

Martyn.
 
All I can say is: I hope you're uninjured and that the damage is minimal.
 
Half the time when I go for a ride, I don't do the proper "looking over" that I should do, then I get to that first big sweeper and think to myself, "God, I hope the front tire isn't low on air!" I hope you're OK roger. I'm taking your story as a lesson learned that I need to take the 5 minutes before every ride to give the bike a good looking over.
 
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I am pleased this has been well recieved and may prevent others losing bits off there buautiful bikes or worse!!

For my situation these bolts were checked evening before race day and confirmed snug. As these bolts are on the rigid side of the crush drive all transmission vibes will end up going through these bolts. So yes once final drive ratio is set loctite would be best security. For my race bike i will be engineering a different bolting arrangement that can be lockwired in pairs.
Interesting however others running these cushdrives have not experienced similar. This may be unique to my engine and frame combination. Leads us back to the other topics on vibrations.
 
There was an aircraft in the Royal Australian Air Force which had all it's fasteners put on with blue Loctite - bit of a problem when you need to apply heat to get it to let go.
 
There was an aircraft in the Royal Australian Air Force which had all it's fasteners put on with blue Loctite - bit of a problem when you need to apply heat to get it to let go.
In the 'States, at least, blue is medium strength, red needs heat to release. Good to know it's not always the same.
 
I tossed the red away because of the heat issue... I figure if I can't get the fastener to hold without it then something somewhere isn't right. YMMV, but that's how my thinking goes.
 
I had something similar happen to the countersunk screws that hold the flange to a belt cush drive engine pulley ( on a Weslake engine). I made up countersunk adapter washers and used socket head cap screws drilled for safety wire. I also re-threaded the holes for fine thread helicoils rather than the coarse that had been fitted. Sounds like you have something in mind for your racebike.
My bike is a racebike and I had to be able to get the flange off quickly and easily to get the belt off so I avoided going the loctite route.
 
There was an aircraft in the Royal Australian Air Force which had all it's fasteners put on with blue Loctite - bit of a problem when you need to apply heat to get it to let go.
No heat required for Blue
 
I had something similar happen to the countersunk screws that hold the flange to a belt cush drive engine pulley ( on a Weslake engine). I made up countersunk adapter washers and used socket head cap screws drilled for safety wire. I also re-threaded the holes for fine thread helicoils rather than the coarse that had been fitted. Sounds like you have something in mind for your racebike.
My bike is a racebike and I had to be able to get the flange off quickly and easily to get the belt off so I avoided going the loctite route.
Exactly what I have planned and for same reason. Will post pictures of the mod.
 
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