Current Tri-Spark Classic Twin Ignition

For several years, Tri-Spark sold two versions of their ignition for British twins. Tri-0005A (clockwise rotating cams) and Tri-0005B (counter (anti) clockwise rotating cams such a Commandos). Late last year, they came out with Tri-0006 which works for either direction. A few things:
1) I'm a Tri-Spark dealer and am happy to help you.
2) If you carefully follow the instructions for Tri-0005A or Tri-0005B you will end up with a bike that will start, and the timing will be within two degrees.
3) If you carefully follow the instructions for Tri-0006 you'll pull out a little hair in the process, but it will work.

The Tri-0006 has the setup mark (AC) less than perfectly positioned and for those (like me) very experienced with the older version the timing steps are opposite so you can get really confused - don't assume you know how to do it without reading the instructions - you don't. I'm going to add info on my web site as I get time, but if you're struggling with one now, call or PM me.

One thing you won't find in the manuals that works for both is the final check I do. Once you have followed the instructions and run the tests, turn the engine forward slowly with the ignition on. When the red test light comes on, if you did everything perfectly, your timing marks will align at the fully advanced setting you used. I find it all much easier to do with the primary cover off so I can turn the engine with the rotor nut rather than the rear wheel.

Greg,
I tried TriSpark ignition and when working it was the best I’ve used. After the first module failed in less than 1000 miles I just don’t trust it. A second module was sent to me that did not fail after roughly 3,000 miles. The location of the module in the points position just seems a wrong place for semiconductors. Honestly I write this to get your opinion why I should trust this ignition.

ILLF8ED said:

Greg,
I tried TriSpark ignition and when working it was the best I’ve used. After the first module failed in less than 1000 miles I just don’t trust it. A second module was sent to me that did not fail after roughly 3,000 miles. The location of the module in the points position just seems a wrong place for semiconductors. Honestly I write this to get your opinion why I should trust this ignition.

Click to expand...

Sold/used 97, 3 returns - none bad, they are running in bikes today. I know nothing about the ones before 10/2016.

The Tri-0002 (triples) have had failures but in each case when investigated it was one of the coil leads being shorted to ground. Had one guy I replaced two. On the third one I insisted on picture of his "pristine" wiring before I would replace it. His horn relay was not screwed down and was against the Tri-Spark lead for the coil in his picture! Have sold/used 34 of those, 4 returns, all were a shorted output transistor and AFAIK, all got the rider home on two cylinders. Also had one where the high school dropout was so sure of his expertise in electricity (electricians' helper) that he knew heat would be a problem. He fabricated a "heat shield standoff" to space the Tri-Spark away from the timing case and a scoop to blow air into it. Then he couldn't figure out why it missed a lot - assumed it was still getting hot and wanted a replacement. I insisted that he install it normally and I sent him an "in case" spare that he only had to pay for if it didn't die in a year - he finally retuned the spare rather than pay for it. That was 2017 - I still talk to him - it's still running - he rides a lot in Florida - he's still sure heat will eventually kill it.

Hopefully I didn't start yet another Tri-Spark war. Can we just stay on our own side of the battlefield and choose to not shoot? Or at least make it a Monty Python war "I fart in your general direction!"

No shooting from me. Maybe the failure I had was nothing to do with the operating environment, but it is suspect. I like the operation of TriSpark, looking for a reason to trust it.

Not sure how many miles over 1000 I've put on the previous version TriSpark ignition I bought from you, but it has been as good as it gets.

Just want to add that I ended up running a separate ground wire into the points housing direct from a ground post that is connected directly to the battery. This is on a bike with a solid mounted engine that does not require it, but I know for certain I will not lose a ground connection unless the battery dies. I also have much simpler wiring than an old Commando would have and use a LiFePO4 battery that sits over 14V all the time.

My high compression motor runs on the hot side. If heat was going to make the ignition fail it would have on the longer rides I tend to take. Worried about all that doom and gloom initially, but I don't think it is an issue I need to worry about anymore.

I bought a Trispark in '08. It's been on my Commando ever since and has been totally reliable; I've never paid any attention to it at all because there has never been any reason to.

ILLF8ED said:

No shooting from me. Maybe the failure I had was nothing to do with the operating environment, but it is suspect. I like the operation of TriSpark, looking for a reason to trust it.

Click to expand...

Please tell which version of the Trispark has failed. With the first version there was a problem, but with the improved version (with the test-button) it shouldn`t happen.

The invoice for the one that failed was July 24, 2015?
Tri-Spark Classic Twin #171844176789
It did have a test button.
Stephen Kelly asked me to do the second test which it failed. A replacement module was sent that did not fail after 3000 miles, but I changed back to a updated Lucas RITA. Rex’s speed shop modern component replacement circuit board for RITA AB11.

I have a customer with an Enfield 500 single. It has a Power Arc ignition on it that I installed at his request along with a new sprag clutch. The old one was TU. A year or so later the bike came back with a destroyed sprag along with inner and outer races for same. Rather than replace all the pieces, this time I just took out all the starter drive parts and gave him the instruction sheet for kick starting a whatever from Old Brits. He just doesn't get it. It's too complicated. I'm wondering if there is a suitable Tri-Spark unit for the Enfieled Bullet, a 500 single. Hopefully, it's more intuitive to start. And If it wouldn't destroy a starter drive if the battery got low, I'd recommend he spring for new starter-drive parts.

Thomasa said:

I have a customer with an Enfield 500 single. It has a Power Arc ignition on it that I installed at his request along with a new sprag clutch. The old one was TU. A year or so later the bike came back with a destroyed sprag along with inner and outer races for same. Rather than replace all the pieces, this time I just took out all the starter drive parts and gave him the instruction sheet for kick starting a whatever from Old Brits. He just doesn't get it. It's too complicated. I'm wondering if there is a suitable Tri-Spark unit for the Enfieled Bullet, a 500 single. Hopefully, it's more intuitive to start. And If it wouldn't destroy a starter drive if the battery got low, I'd recommend he spring for new starter-drive parts.

Click to expand...

Does an Enfield Bullet use the same auto advance unit and points as a Triumph/BSA single? If so and it's a 12-volt system with a 12-volt coil, the Tri-Spark should work. I've installed on several singles. The BSAs are slightly painful because they only have one wire in the points area and the wire runs inside the timing cover - have to add a wire but otherwise it's simple to install and of course requires no maintenance.