Crankshaft Alternator Nut will not budge

Status
Not open for further replies.
johnny Lagdon

johnny Lagdon

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Nov 18, 2016
Messages
135
Country flag
Trying to get the rotor nut off the crankshaft and everything I have tried will not work so far. From the regular up to heat and rattle gun, no movement. It would appear PO has used locktite and it is beaten every method I have tried. Any suggestions? I am perplexed as to what to try next
 
Heat but more than tried so far but more concentrated so an oxy torch just on the nut.
 
heat will usually break a loctite bond... how much torque are you applying ? failing everything - a nut splitter
 
You need a better impact wrench. My Ingersoll Rand will hit 600 ft lbs, nothing resists that.
 
Meanwhile, back in my world, with no Ingersoll Rand 600ft lbs, no oxy torch etc, I am looking for a more pedestrian approach
 
maylar said:
You need a better impact wrench. My Ingersoll Rand will hit 600 ft lbs, nothing resists that.
Click to expand...


johnny Lagdon said:
Meanwhile, back in my world, with no Ingersoll Rand 600ft lbs, no oxy torch etc, I am looking for a more pedestrian approach
Click to expand...


Years ago I had an issue trying to remove Mk3 axle. My pos impact wouldn't get it.
Bit the bullett and got a better one and bam, done. It's now my go to removal tool.
One of my better investments, never been sorry.
We have several tool sources here in the Colonies.
This is the one I sourced.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-6...MERCH=REC-_-searchViewed-_-NA-_-304781263-_-N
 
I am thinking of grinding the hex end off, so I can slip the rotor off, then deal with threaded sleeve part.
Thoughts?
 
If you have a clutch locking tool so you don't need to rely on the gearbox/rear brake to keep the crankshaft from moving, a good 1/2 inch breaker bar with a pipe extension should do the trick.

Cutting the head of the nut off would eventually lead to having to slice the remainder from the threads, and that would certainly damage them.
 
maylar said:
If you have a clutch locking tool so you don't need to rely on the gearbox/rear brake to keep the crankshaft from moving, a good 1/2 inch breaker bar with a pipe extension should do the trick.

Cutting the head of the nut off would eventually lead to having to slice the remainder from the threads, and that would certainly damage them.
Click to expand...
I have the clutch locking tool, it was bending the handle. 1/2" beaker bar 14" long. Whoever the "person" that put it on, not only locktite but no serrated washer...
 
Wow. Dunno what else to suggest. There are cordless impact wrenches nowadays that claim to be capable of 1000 ft lbs. Do you have any tool rental outlets in your area?
 
if it was RED thread locker, you WILL need heat - you should get sufficient heat with a standard propane torch. you may need a combination of an impact gun or breaker bar with an extension along with heat. i have had tough nuts on other projects - one thing I found, if you give it a quick shot TO TIGHTEN, then impact CCW to remove, it may break loose. again, if red thread locker, hit it with a torch first. good luck
 
http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/how-to-remove-loctite-2620-red-threadlocker/

While our red high strength threadlocker is considered a permanent assembly method, it can be removed if you know the right technique.

Removing the red threadlocker involves heating the nut and bolt for a couple of minutes to a temperature of 500°F (250°C), applying localized heat using a blowtorch, for example. This will soften the thermoset plastic in the threadlocker. Once your nut and bolt is heated up, grab your hand wrench and take the assembly apart.

 
johnny Lagdon said:
Trying to get the rotor nut off the crankshaft and everything I have tried will not work so far. From the regular up to heat and rattle gun, no movement. It would appear PO has used locktite and it is beaten every method I have tried. Any suggestions? I am perplexed as to what to try next
Click to expand...

Maybe the problem is not loctite, but rather the threads have been knackered on previous install.

If heat, impact gun, and breaker bar are giving no joy then I suspect this may be the case. Nut splitter might be your only option at this point.

Got a spare rotor and a thread die? You'll likely need them.
 
120 PSI is the max input pressure rating.
Not the output torque rating.
I had a gun for over 20 years that sub performed.
I assumed it wasn't getting enough air.
The new gun is lighter, quiter and performs. Same compressor and lines.
I took a chance because of the easy return policy at the Depot.
Tool rental not a bad idea, except I figured that was $20.00 towards a new gun.
 
Suggest you boil a kettle and pour the hot water over the nut, use a 2lb hammer if you have to, but insert a soft alloy rectangle bar between chain and sprocket before giving it a good hard whack.
 
There's a lot of thermal mass there - the nut, the crankshaft, and the rotor. Getting it all up to 500°F would be a challenge.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

Ekvin
1969 Commando 750 will not start
Replies
15
Views
1,396
Stevo
Stevo
johnny Lagdon
  • Locked
will not run properly
Replies
17
Views
2,192
Tornado
Tornado
thackero
  • Locked
1975 Norton 850 Mark 3 will not start :(
2
Replies
23
Views
3,323
thackero
thackero
NORBECER
  • Locked
Camshaft sprocket nut won't budge!
2
Replies
34
Views
3,822
Hobot
Hobot
Back
Top