Camshaft sprocket nut won't budge!

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NORBECER

NORBECER

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Dec 27, 2013
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Good day, While supporting the immediate gear shaft with my handy Mick Hemmings suggested timing cover tool, I have tried an extension arm, even used a manual impact driver (not comfortable having done that) with out any success. It refuses to budge and I really leaned hard on the bar. I imagine the PO or mechanic may have put some loctite on the bolt. Any suggestions as to how I may get the nut off? I was afraid to apply heat to the nut as it could affect the hardened steel on the cam shaft? Should I simply drill some holes into the nut and break it off? Please drop a note with any suggestions. Thanks in advance, Dennis

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Someone might have put Loctite on it. A bit of heat will unlock it, however I'd use the oxy with the smallest tip, and I'd only heat it in one spot. It won't take much heat to make it let go, especially if you put the spanner onto it immediately, it should have expanded the nut a bit and make it easier.
 
If the heat it takes to remove such Norton nuts would hurt it then just runing temps already have. If its similar to the glued-fused stuff I've dealt with, you will loose your fear of oil burning temps to free stuff short of actyl/oxy torch cut off. May have to get a new nut if the flats or threads get buggered in the fight. Best wishes on the more brutal side of quiant ole Commandos simple as a lawmower so what could go wrong...
 
Norb,
You are using a proper diameter shaft through the small ends of the con rods? If the pistons are still on, then take them off. Two parallel pieces of wood across the base where the base gasket would live. Take the slack out of the shaft holding the rod and (proper right hand thread on the cam. Rightie titie, Lefty loosie on the cam nut). :roll: Sorry just being obvious. And it should come off. The intermediate worm gear would be left-handed.
Regards,
Thomas
CNN
 
CanukNortonNut said:
Norb,
You are using a proper diameter shaft through the small ends of the con rods? If the pistons are still on, then take them off. Two parallel pieces of wood across the base where the base gasket would live. Take the slack out of the shaft holding the rod and (proper right hand thread on the cam. Rightie titie, Lefty loosie on the cam nut). :roll: Sorry just being obvious. And it should come off. The intermediate worm gear would be left-handed.
Regards,
Thomas
CNN
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Pistons are off, shaft through the small ends, and wood under the shaft...even have the Mrs holding down the shaft going through the small ends so it doesn't bang up and down. Plus, I have the Mick timing cover as he suggests to hold the gear shaft in place and not have the lateral forces on it. Guess I will hit it with the torch :(
 
Well I hit it with the torch, the oil was popping, still nothing :( . Will try again when she cool down.
 
NORBECER said:
CanukNortonNut said:
Norb,
You are using a proper diameter shaft through the small ends of the con rods? If the pistons are still on, then take them off. Two parallel pieces of wood across the base where the base gasket would live. Take the slack out of the shaft holding the rod and (proper right hand thread on the cam. Rightie titie, Lefty loosie on the cam nut). :roll: Sorry just being obvious. And it should come off. The intermediate worm gear would be left-handed.
Regards,
Thomas
CNN
Click to expand...

Pistons are off, shaft through the small ends, and wood under the shaft...even have the Mrs holding down the shaft going through the small ends so it doesn't bang up and down. Plus, I have the Mick timing cover as he suggests to hold the gear shaft in place and not have the lateral forces on it. Guess I will hit it with the torch :(
Click to expand...

I know it sounds kind of funny but wood seems to move stubborn nuts with its dead blow properties. Try using a piece of wood like a 2X3" and strike it on the end of the Johnson bar persuader. Ensure the socket is held up against the cam sprocket.
best of Luck
Thomas
CNN
 
CanukNortonNut said:
NORBECER said:
CanukNortonNut said:
Norb,
You are using a proper diameter shaft through the small ends of the con rods? If the pistons are still on, then take them off. Two parallel pieces of wood across the base where the base gasket would live. Take the slack out of the shaft holding the rod and (proper right hand thread on the cam. Rightie titie, Lefty loosie on the cam nut). :roll: Sorry just being obvious. And it should come off. The intermediate worm gear would be left-handed.
Regards,
Thomas
CNN
Click to expand...

Pistons are off, shaft through the small ends, and wood under the shaft...even have the Mrs holding down the shaft going through the small ends so it doesn't bang up and down. Plus, I have the Mick timing cover as he suggests to hold the gear shaft in place and not have the lateral forces on it. Guess I will hit it with the torch :(
Click to expand...

I know it sounds kind of funny but wood seems to move stubborn nuts with its dead blow properties. Try using a piece of wood like a 2X3" and strike it on the end of the Johnson bar persuader. Ensure the socket is held up against the cam sprocket.
best of Luck
Thomas
CNN
Click to expand...

I actually thought of putting the puller on her to stress it, would have the same affect I guess but in reverse. I have already whacked it with the manual impact driver.
 
If the heat it takes to remove such Norton nuts would hurt it then just running temps already have all of ours. If its similar to the glued-fused stuff I've dealt with, you will loose your fear of oil burning temps to free stuff short of actyl/oxy torch cut off. May have to get a new nut if the flats or threads get buggered in the fight. Best wishes on the more brutal side of quaint ole Commandos simple as a lawn mower - what could go wrong...
 
Have you ground flush the face of a six point socket to remove the lead in bevel, thereby getting a better grip on that thin nut? Helps :idea:
 
Have you tried a penetrating oil like Aero Kroll or PB Blaster? These may not be effective if nut was put on with Locktite, but worth a try. Otherwise keep trying the heat, concentrating it on the nut. Good luck.

Slick
 
In the end the B didn't want to give me a break so I carefully drilled it at to extremities and split the nut. From the impression on the back it may have been hung up on the key. DONE with no damage to the threads :D I was not comfortable going forward with more heat, impact driver and leaning on the long bar. After I grinded down my new pinion gear puller( because they don't fit out of the box) all went very well. Thanks for all your help and suggestions, Dennis :wink:

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Well that’s one way of getting it off. :shock:
There is nothing wrong with buying a new nut. Good work.
Cheers.
Thomas
CNN
 
CanukNortonNut said:
Well that’s one way of getting it off. :shock:
There is nothing wrong with buying a new nut. Good work.
Cheers.
Thomas
CNN
Click to expand...

Thomas, it was risky but it had to be done... 8) had I drilled the threads I'd be ordering a new camshaft :roll: I was putting way too much stress on the conrods and everything else attached to the timing chain. Thanks for your support, Dennis
 
All's well that ends well. I once broke a piston in an AJS single when I forgot to file the end gap on the rings and the piston jammed in the bore above the slight wear mark. That sort of thing doesn't happen often if you take your time going about things, but when it does happen it is a real bastard.
 
LOL now that's some satisfying nerve wracking skill to see applied to avoid worrying about harming the poor things temper. Btw have ya dealt with the crank pulley or swing arm spindle yet? They better not give you any flak : )
 
I like how you organize all your bits in a pan....I need to discipline myself to be more tidy in managing my bits.

Good work....a new nut is cheap enough.

Slick
 
I salute the determined skill and attitude to cut that big ole nut off like the Gordian Knot solution but has any one else ever heard of such a stuck up cam nut before?

Parts in trays is fine if actively staying on the task but if having to store for a while I use clear plastic food containers to avoid stumbles & fumbles, pets, pack rats and insects for a season or so but put in labeled tins for longer term to keep climate out too.
 
hobot said:
I salute the determined skill and attitude to cut that big ole nut off like the Gordian Knot solution but has any one else ever heard of such a stuck up cam nut before?

Parts in trays is fine if actively staying on the task but if having to store for a while I use clear plastic food containers to avoid stumbles & fumbles, pets, pack rats and insects for a season or so but put in labeled tins for longer term to keep climate out too.
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I put them in the tray as the parts come off and photograph them in groups of their function, then each part gets cleaned, bagged by group and a description and various notes are written down on the bag. Then the whole group of bags goes into the same box with a note on the box. Got it covered but thanks for the suggestion :)
 
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