cracker Barrel

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I was hoping to have this bike to ride to the vintage shows this season but looks like I'll have to wait til next year. I'd much rather have a solid jug so I'll just have to wait for one to cross my path.

luckily I've still got my Honda to ride and I needed to make sure the crank is all sorted on this Norton anyways so the full restore is going to start now instead of later.

I'll see if I can get a reply in the want ads.
 
norbsa48503 said:
Of course buying a set of the 750 through bolt castings would be even better. And again has anyone tried re-drilling the old casting for this through bolt set up? Just what I need another project.
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I have a set of sleeved barrels in my workshop wich have been trough bolted by Norman White but am Not going to use them because for the reasons mentioned before .
The through bolt solution is imho only valid for barrels on a +40 or so oversize to offer more support at the base
The sleeving solution is trouble ,until someone can show me a barrel sleeved and in one piece after some serious miles
I have seen too many engines in bits wich had "decent sleeved barrels "
 
I'll just have to wait for one to cross my path.
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You can use Atlas/G15/N15/P11 jugs also. You will need to drill and tap the four 5/16 head bolt holes for 3/8-26 Commando bolts.
 
I may have found an Atlas barrel

The Atlas motor stamped # n15cs 123779

Could someone please double verify that this barrel would work on 73 Commando 750 before I go through the trouble?

thanks,
 
ernest said:
I may have found an Atlas barrel

The Atlas motor stamped # n15cs 123779

Could someone please double verify that this barrel would work on 73 Commando 750 before I go through the trouble?

thanks,
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As Ron stated just above your post
You can use Atlas/G15/N15/P11 jugs also
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. N15CS 123779 is an N15 motor (one of the Norton/Matchless desert racer hybrids).

I saw that motor on Craig's list :wink:
 
Found a barrel in decent shape. Seller didn't know if it was Atlas or Commando nor could he verify the head bolt holes. If It ends up being an Atlas jug with 5/16 head bolt holes, is that 5/16 Whitworth correct? I would need to hunt down 3/8 whitworth tap? If so, any ideas on where I can find a 3/8 whitworth tap?
 
I think that's what I'm asking? drilling out the bolt holes in the cylinder from 5/16 to 3/8. I've already got new stainless hardware for a Commando head.
 
Grandpaul,
The holes in the Commando head are 3/8. It's tough to drill a 3/8 hole to 5/16! (without welding it up first) :mrgreen:
I wouldn't use the Atlas 5/16 bolts anyway.
Ernest,

You need a 3/8 X 26 tpi tap to use stock Norton headbolts. If you are tempted to go to 3/8-24 and use grade 8 SAE bolt, don't. There will be very little clearance on the bolt head to put a socket or box end wrench on a 3/8-24 bolt making nearly impossible to properly torque.

Get the the 3/8 X 26 tap. They are available here: http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BTF&Category_Code=253
 
I didn't want to question Mr. Zuniga but yeah I didn't know where he was going with that one....


thank you , thank you
 
Ernest, aithough this is an easy job you would be better off finding a machine shop with the correct tap and radial arm drill press, they can bolt the barrel down square' use a centre to locate off the old hole, clean hole up to correct tapping size, and what I find most important, use the centre and retap the hole so the threads are square and the bolts arenot on a horrible angle, which will help with assembly and reliability. 1/2 to 3/4 of an hours work vrs the price of a tap you probably won't use again.
 
hee hee

I thought I knew what I meant, drilling the smaller Atlas head to bolt to a Commando jug must have been my thinking.
 
splatt said:
Ernest, aithough this is an easy job you would be better off finding a machine shop with the correct tap and radial arm drill press, they can bolt the barrel down square' use a centre to locate off the old hole, clean hole up to correct tapping size, and what I find most important, use the centre and retap the hole so the threads are square and the bolts arenot on a horrible angle, which will help with assembly and reliability. 1/2 to 3/4 of an hours work vrs the price of a tap you probably won't use again.
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oh I wasn't going to do it myself. I'm the dumbass that cracked the barrel in the first place.
 
splatt said:
Ernest, aithough this is an easy job you would be better off finding a machine shop with the correct tap and radial arm drill press, they can bolt the barrel down square' use a centre to locate off the old hole, clean hole up to correct tapping size, and what I find most important, use the centre and retap the hole so the threads are square and the bolts arenot on a horrible angle, which will help with assembly and reliability. 1/2 to 3/4 of an hours work vrs the price of a tap you probably won't use again.
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Just curious, how many machine shops within reasonable driving distance do you know that have British Standard Cycle (26 tpi) taps? Count on buying the taps. I would buy both a taper and a bottoming tap. Even if you plan to get a machine shop to do the work. If your machine shop has BSC taps then great, but unless they do much work on British bikes I doubt it.
 
If your machine shop has BSC taps then great, but unless they do much work on British bikes I doubt it.
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Another good reason to send it to Leo. I've had too many screw up from local machine shops to ever let them touch my Norton again. Any Norton machining I need done I send to Leo.
 
Never a worry with Leo, but then this is just drilling and tapping 4 existing holes. It would take longer to box it up to send to Leo than to do the work. Any competent shop should be able do this if you don't have a mill or a good drill press at home (and minimal skills). Plus I always worry about UPS and FedEx losing or damaging something.
 
I just sent my cases and cam to Leo for new cam bushings. I insured them for $1500. If UPS screws up, I'll have enough for Steve Maney cases and a new cam. Total cost of shipping and insurance from Florida to Tennessee was $24.73. I believe the insurance portion was $10.50.
 
JimC said:
I just sent my cases and cam to Leo for new cam bushings. I insured them for $1500. If UPS screws up, I'll have enough for Steve Maney cases and a new cam. Total cost of shipping and insurance from Florida to Tennessee was $24.73. I believe the insurance portion was $10.50.
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I always insure for MINIMUM full replacemetn value, based on the latest comparable I can find. You can insure things for any value you want, but they'll only pay up with extensive documentation; they don't replace the stuff and add a pile of cash.
 
The cam I sent is new. Old Britt's lists the price of crankcases at $1,029.00. By the time you add bushings and fasteners I doubt you'd have enough left over to buy lunch.
 
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