Con rod bolts/nuts

1973x75

1973x75

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Nov 15, 2015
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I followed procedure in the manual using existing bolts and new nuts, with 25 lbs./ft. of torque. Now I read comments of using loctite and peening the nuts, which I didn’t do. I really don’t want to disassemble and start over…comments, advice?
 
No need to peen, but I've been raked over the coals for using Loctite...
 
Do what you are comfortable doing...you don't need either but if it makes you happy, peen and loctite them. ;)
 
grandpaul said:
No need to peen, but I've been raked over the coals for using Loctite...
Click to expand...

There should be no need for Loctite even though there are some pics online where a nut has not remained in place. (Maybe that was someone with a calibrated elbows work, who knows)
It also could be due to the bolts head not seating at the corner fillet radius in the connecting rod counterbore (from the factory) then losing clamping friction over time if it was to slowly settle. (A common check with stock diameter head bolts)

Would it hurt to use a little wicking 290 Loctite after torqueing of the nut ?
It would do no harm and have no effect on the torque value being afterward.

The same could be said for crankshaft fasteners, I did use Loctite but with the Loctite recommended torque % reduction.
Or you could use 290 afterward.

Is the nut going to fall off if torqued to spec, probably not.
Of course if a new nut was used on an original bolt you would want the thread class to be correct.

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None of these are like the other.
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Unless the threads on the bolts and nuts are chemically clean will the Loctite actually work?
What is the temp range for green wicking Loctite?
 
marinatlas said:
andover-norton.co.uk

PiratePartDetails

andover-norton.co.uk

Make your choice ....................??
Click to expand...

Could the Norvil bolts be sourced off RGM.
The pic I posted was when I bought 8 bolts and 8 nuts (16 each total) off both RGM and AN then compared to a OEM bolt.

I will say (as in the past) what was AN thinking using what looks to be a generic blank that has a loose fit in the rod counterbore, a reduced head OD and greater offset so less seating on the off side compared to the OEM bolt.
I had asked this before but got only tumbleweeds.

A moot point as long as those shiny connecting rods ( no power polishing and AN hardware) go up and down and stay inside the engine cases.
 
Onder said:
Unless the threads on the bolts and nuts are chemically clean will the Loctite actually work?
What is the temp range for green wicking Loctite?
Click to expand...
It will not wick, NOR stick with the threads having been assembled oiled. (Either intentionally, or residual packing preservative) Unless the fasteners were washed with solvent, don't bother.
 
If you done it as the manual said then leave it alone I have built a few Norton motors just using new conrod nut and torqued and have never had any problems with my motor or my friends motors, been over 10 years now with my motor since I done the crank and replaced the CR bearings, have never used loctite on CR bolts just new nuts and torqued to specs.
 
FWIW, If someone wants to use loctite and factor in the change in torque specs caused by the lube, It won't hurt (or help) anything. I built engines, including competition/high performance engines professionally for many years. Never used loctite on con rod fasteners; never heard of anyone in the business who did. Never seen a properly torqued con rod fastener unscrew itself.
 
1973x75 said:
I followed procedure in the manual using existing bolts and new nuts, with 25 lbs./ft. of torque. Now I read comments of using loctite and peening the nuts, which I didn’t do. I really don’t want to disassemble and start over…comments, advice?
Click to expand...
IMHO you're done.

No need to peen - assuming you used the proper nuts - they are locking nuts. Locktite acts as a lubricant until it sets and that changes the torque so with it you would be getting them tighter than is called or - not good - again, IMHO.
 
While using Loctite and peening the nuts is a common practice for added security, it's not the end of the world if you didn't do it initially. If you're not experiencing any issues or vibrations, you should be fine. However, if you're concerned, it wouldn't hurt to keep an eye on those rod bolts and consider applying some Loctite during your next maintenance cycle. By the way, if you ever need quality screws and fasteners, I recommend checking out online stores. They've got a wide range of options that might come in handy for your future projects. For instance, you can find some at https://www.scrooz.com.au
 
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