Commando Specialties SS front Axle

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With my exhaust order I placed I ended up throwing in a SS axle into the order too. It was pretty looking so since I just did my wheels I thought it was a great addition to the whole deal...

I can sit the axle on the workbench and it looks awesome. When I lok at the nut though I notice its 10mm deeper. Raised my eyebrow a bit. The axle is exact length of my stock one.

When I installed it I noticed the nut doesnt clear the threads and it looks funky. Does anyone else have this part? I emailed Cpmm,andoSpecialties and they simply said thats the only size and if I dont like it to just return it. I want to know if anyone else bought this and if so did they get a differnet nut?

I'm thinking of looking for a machine shop that can lop the extra off this nut so it's right... It's definitely asthetics I am dealing with but man I think buying a ss axle and nut is all about asthetics heh...

Commando Specialties SS front Axle


Commando Specialties SS front Axle
 
don't know what it is with the stainless front axles. I got one a while back from RGM and it was a tad too big. In order to install it I would have had to drive it home with a 3 lb. sledge and a block of wood. Decided to stay with stock item, slipped right in.
 
Yes the stainless steel nut I bought from RGM is the same, however when fitted, the end of the spindle is flush with the nut.

Can I see a washer under the nut in your photo as a washer wouldn't normally be fitted under the nut?
 
Snakepit said:
the nut with the bigger shoulder is for the rear wheel axle

The one my Commando's rear spindle is even longer (longer hexagon).
 
interesting replies. I dont have a washer on there. it looks like it but I guess after 40 years of P.O.'s re torquing it looks like it.


I was told by CommandoSpecialties that this is the only part they have. I will purchase one thats right if I can get it. The axle went on smoothly (I put some grease on it) and everything but Now I am using the old nut with the new SS axle. Its just too pretty to remove heh....



Ben

Yes, we only sell one size nut, feel free to return it if you wish.

Regards,

Duane
Commando Specialties
123 Industrial Park Rd
Plymouth Ma 02360
 
I have found it's best to buy stainless parts from the maker. I mostly buy from stainlessmiddleton.co.uk he makes a lot of Norton stuff & is in England so he knows whitworth and a lot of what the eBay sellers have may come from people who don't know Nortons.
 
gtsun said:
I have found it's best to buy stainless parts from the maker. I mostly buy from stainlessmiddleton.co.uk he makes a lot of Norton stuff & is in England so he knows whitworth and a lot of what the eBay sellers have may come from people who don't know Nortons.
Yes, I agree. I got the two nuts, front and rear from them
 
hello Forum
just come across this item of stainless nuts and axles.
can someone please tell me what grade of stainless these items are made from.
i thought stainless was not a good material for a high tensile requirement.
Are they any stories of these items failing.

i am just curious about whether these axles and nuts are 303, 304, 316 or something else.

i saw swing arm pins offered in stainless and doubt whether they have the surface hardness to last, unless they have gone to the trouble of heat treating the correct hardenable grade. The expense would be more than a standard pin.. Depends on what they are made from I suppose. High grade stainless is not cheap here.

I make some swing arm pin replacements out of nitrided 4150 and they seem to last a long time.
looking forward to some advice
Kind regards to all
Bradley
 
hello swooshdave
My point exactly mate. I am very curious to know a bit more.
Have you heard any tales of failure, or good performance for that matter.
My self, I would baulk at an axle made of stainless unless the grade was known.
There must be lots of stories about this out there.
Bradley
 
B.Rad said:
hello swooshdave
My point exactly mate. I am very curious to know a bit more.
Have you heard any tales of failure, or good performance for that matter.
My self, I would baulk at an axle made of stainless unless the grade was known.
There must be lots of stories about this out there.
Bradley

Front axle is probably ok, but as the stock rear axles break you can imagine what a SS rear axle would do.
 
swooshdave said:
B.Rad said:
hello swooshdave
My point exactly mate. I am very curious to know a bit more.
Have you heard any tales of failure, or good performance for that matter.
My self, I would baulk at an axle made of stainless unless the grade was known.
There must be lots of stories about this out there.
Bradley

Front axle is probably ok, but as the stock rear axles break you can imagine what a SS rear axle would do.


+1 on the rear axle
CNN
 
I think if you contact Middleton he will tell you what type/grade stainless he usess. What grade would be best & if hardened what type then???
 
You can ask hobot about rear axle failure. I haven't heard of a front one, but it could happen.

Dave
69S
 
gtsun said:
I think if you contact Middleton he will tell you what type/grade stainless he usess. What grade would be best & if hardened what type then???

Hello All.
here is my information regarding the use of stainless for critical applications.
swing arm pin, not appropriate, no point
Cylinder barrel and head studs (external fasteners only) Gr 431 ( fine) 0r GR 630 ( better)
Axles Gr 630
The following data is based on short (US 2,000lb tons)
Steel Gr 5 bolt min yield 92,000PSI Steel GR 8 130,000 Psi
Gr 431 S/S min yield 92,098 PSI Gr 630 123,000 PSI with good elongation indicating no dangerous brittleness. Both are very tough steels.
As these are minium yield and 630 can be taken higher if desired I would be of the opinion that either grade would be OK for external engine fasteners(head bolts and cyl base nuts) used for cosmetic purposes and GR 630 would be more than adequate for a rear axle.

Regarding standard steels for rear axles, I reckon 4340 or EN25 would far exceed the material used by the factory. These steels would be suitable for hard riding/racing use. I reckon to break one of these you would have to try real hard.

Any that's my 2 cents worth.
Any differing opinions welcomed
Bradley
 
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