Commando Disc Front Wheel Sitting Off Centre

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PM999S

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This is a question for those with some wheel building knowledge: I've bought a nice pair of Akront 18-inch alloy rimmed wheels for my road going '72 Combat but the front wheel does not sit centrally. When cpomparing with the old 19-incher, I see that the new wheel has been laced up differently. The old wheel's spokes are almost vertically threaded in on the disc side while angled in on the other side of the hub, whereas the new wheel has been set in with equal angles to the spokes on both sides so pushing the wheel out of alignment when sat on the axle.
My question is: does the wheel have to be completely rebuilt or can it be adjusted to allow the disc side spokes be set vertical so the wheel sits properly?
 
I guess it is a disc break front wheel and yes there is a design flaw. To get the correct alignment for the disc the wheel is off center and one side ,the spokes are almost straight. Different lacing could mean incorrect rim. I recently bought a set from Central wheel and they were very helpful. You might want to ck with them about correct part number. Good luck
 
My question is: does the wheel have to be completely rebuilt or can it be adjusted to allow the disc side spokes be set vertical so the wheel sits properly?

Depends on the spoke lengths (if the non-disc side spokes are long enough and the disc-side spokes have sufficient length of thread) also if the spoke head angles and lengths are correct for the rim offset so approximately far does the rim need to be moved?
 
I build a lot of wheels. With a WM2 19" rim, there should be an offset between the disk mounting surface on the hub and the edge of the rim between 1/2" and 5/8". I prefer to favour something closer to the 1/2" offset, but that is not always possible.

Without seeing a picture of the wheel, it is hard to say whether it is reworkable.

FWIW - There are 2 different gauges of spokes, and 4 different style spokes in a Commando disk wheel, it is pretty hard to get them mixed up and still successfully build the wheel.
 
My question is: does the wheel have to be completely rebuilt or can it be adjusted to allow the disc side spokes be set vertical so the wheel sits properly?
Depends, if the rim is drilled correctly for a Commando front disc hub then yes you theoretically can untension one side and tension the other side to bring it over. However this wheel has one sides spokes virtually vertical, so I would loosen off all the spokes and start again getting the vertical spokes too far over first and then tension the other side to bring it back to position. The non vertical spokes will always be under the correct tension, if you do tension them correctly then the vertical spokes will not be vertical, which may be your issue.

If the rim is not drilled correctly then you need to stat again with the correct rim.
 
Thanks for the responses and answering some of the queries, the misalignment is about by half an inch and looking at the spokes, I can't see that there would be enough thread on the disc side spokes (which look much more heavy gauge than te standard wheel) to tightening into a vertical angle. It is strange that it has been laced up this way because the hub is only for a single disc and not like the twi disc hub on my racer which sits perfectly true. Sounds like I'll have to find a decent old-school wheel builder here in Germany.
 
The nipple has a short section unthreaded at the spoke end hidden inside, plus 1/2"difference between side gap to fork leg out needs 1/4" movement to centralise. So don't just think it can't be done. Pictures would be better for us to comment on.
 
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As komando says it's only 1/4" you need to move it
I'd be surprised if the spokes you have won't allow that
Cheers
 
The Vintage bike write up uses a Central Wheel rim, the dimple pattern is not that used by Norton. One of the reasons I avoid their rims.
 
I may be wrong but I think the Norton disc front rim is a 3:1 dimple pattern. Talk to Devon Wheels, they do whatever is the correct dimple pattern.
 
I may be wrong but I think the Norton disc front rim is a 3:1 dimple pattern.

That is wrong. Unfortunately, CWC thinks it's correct.


"Devon / Dunlop Part Code = MC288-CH.
06-1951.
Bike Fitments = Commando Dominator & more if fitted with this same hub.
Please make sure your Hub matches the one we show in this listing. Suitable for Later Disc Hubs.
Rim Size = WM2 (1.85") X 19'' X 40 Hole.
Dimple Pattern = 1x1 .300 Cross Through Nipple Holes"

('72-early '75 front disc rim was MC275, also 1x1)
 
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Here are three snaps of the wheel fitted and the last one showing how much off centre it is...


 
I can only see the first picture.
The second and third = "Google Drive You need access".
 
Ok, pictures are now there in both posts.
It's an 850 Mk3 (circlip bearing retainer) hub. Nothing wrong with that as the circlip hub can be fitted either way around.
It also has the reversed Mk3 spoke pattern (as the wheel would be reversed with the disc on the LH side on the Mk3) again, not a problem.

The head of the spindle/axle looks to be too far into the slider so could have the wrong dust cover/spacer?
 
Ok, pictures are now there in both posts.
It's an 850 Mk3 (circlip bearing retainer) hub. Nothing wrong with that as the circlip hub can be fitted either way around.
It also has the reversed Mk3 spoke pattern (as the wheel would be reversed with the disc on the LH side on the Mk3) again, not a problem.

The head of the spindle/axle looks to be too far into the slider so could have the wrong dust cover/spacer?
I used the dust cover from the original 750 wheel is that too big then?
 
That extreme offset is absurd and not necessary.
There is plenty of clearance between the ( std) caliper and the spokes.
It is physically impossible to have equal tension on the LH and RH spokes.
I can't help but think ( not prove..) that under hard braking, the increased tension on 10 LH spokes makes the rim ( not the hub) shift to the left.
I made a custom hub to get rid of the offset, but you don't have to go that far:
A disk with less offset will allow the hub to move to the right ( keep the disk centered in the caliper).
The STD disk is over 6 mm thick. It is perfectly safe to remove 2 mm, and maybe another 2 mm on the mating face of the hub.
( not an amateur job..)
4 mm will make a world of difference in lacing up the wheel.
 
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