Commando clutch discs

As I continue deeper and deeper into my 69 rebuild, I removed the clutch pack last week in an effort to remedy the hard clutch pull. I found that the discs all stuck togeather and after an overnight soak in solvent it still took some firm screwdriver work to semprate them. After cleaning them up, I find they're in two flavors, plain steel and aluminum with thin fibre (?) sections bonded on. Never having been inside a Commando clutch before, I assumed that's what is supposed to be there however, someone else who has a 69 told me that his fibre discs were steel. I'm wondering if these were added by the P/O or there was some factory evolution in friction discs over time. They don't appear to be too worn so I planned to re-use them unless there's a good reason not to. Any thoughts?

Cheers,

sidreilley said:

aluminum with thin fibre (?)

Click to expand...

They could be 'Barnett' plates? http://www.coloradonortonworks.com/catalog/drive.asp #702

http://www.oldbritts.com/ob_clutch_info.html

Type 'Barnett clutch' into the search box, you will find plenty of Barnett clutch information.

TVMI, will do!

Once you get those clutch plates cleaned up, the best single thing you can do to ease clutch pull is replace the cable with a teflon lined cable. It will make for a very easy pull.

I was just checking the Venhill site and noticed these feather lite pull models, looked to be worth a try. I suspected before disassembling the clutch, that the stiff pull was from the clutch cable which seemed to be too long to adjust properly. The bars are aftermarket, similar to but not actual Norton home market style. The levers are replacements to but I can't tell from where. Ah, the challenge of sorting thru the aftermarket improvements without just giving in and buying a whole bikes worth of new parts!
I think I'll adjust the stack height by adding another plain plate, get a shorter clutch cable, and see how it works.

If you last remedy does not work, throw the clutch pack away and buy a Barrnett clutch pack for your Norton. Best thing I ever did on the bike after struggling for years. Now shifting is a breeze, no jerking and stalling and no sticking even on cold start up. Worked great right out of the box. Good Luck.

sidreilley said:

I was just checking the Venhill site and noticed these feather lite pull models, looked to be worth a try. I suspected before disassembling the clutch, that the stiff pull was from the clutch cable which seemed to be too long to adjust properly. The bars are aftermarket, similar to but not actual Norton home market style. The levers are replacements to but I can't tell from where. Ah, the challenge of sorting thru the aftermarket improvements without just giving in and buying a whole bikes worth of new parts!
I think I'll adjust the stack height by adding another plain plate, get a shorter clutch cable, and see how it works.

Click to expand...

I added an Old Britts 0.060" shim plate and installed the Venhill Teflon lined feather lite clutch cable and I've got a very nice two finger pull. Previously it was a real handfull.

I suspect as the old friction plates wear down it creates the need for shimming or their replacement.

However if the shimming is too much it would cause the clutch to lose some torque holding capacity and cause slipping under load.

Bob

If the plates were stuck together so strongly there was likely too much oil getting on them. This is caused by:
overfilling the primary,................................................ Remedy - be more careful when filling chaincase
Oil leaking from the crankcase seal into the primary... Remedy - 1st. - PCV valve installed to prevent excess crankcase pressure, 2nd. - new primary side seal
Oil leaking in from the transmission............................ Remedy - Dave Comeau clutch rod seal
By using ATF fluid in the chaincase to lub the triplex chain which is red you can see if engine or transmission oil is getting in there.