Commando Buying tips?

He everyone at AccessNorton!

Brief Introduction: My name is Evan and I am a mechanical engineering student at CSU Chico. I'm into traction kite sports, competitive road cycling, saxophone, bodybuilding, classic cars and doing anything outdoors! Ive wanted a Norton Commando for years now. However, since I have been at college the time was never quite 'right' and I always put it on the back burner. The Commando has been calling me recently, and I am determined to finally pick one up!

The Guts of the Post: I figure, I'm looking for a decent runner, something I can ride and enjoy while I tinker and do minor fixes. Cosmetics are not so much of an issue, but I would like it to be mechanically sound. Then, perhaps in a few years, I can do a full restore. Are there any tips or things to lookout for when shopping for a Commando? Maybe something you wished you knew when you bought your first Commando?

Thanks in advance guys, and hopefully soon I will be able to join your ranks as a Commando Owner!

I think the first thing you would want to do is decide which model you want. Pre-Commando, Original 750 Commando (pre-Fastback), S type, R type, Roadster, Fastback (the second model), SS, High-Rider, Combat, 850, many variations. You need to know the differences and their issues, it may take a bit of study. Typically the 750's are lighter and more maneuverable (with more stress on your body), and the 850's are heavier highway machines.

Welcome, you'll have lots of fun, there's so much to learn and I haven't even touched most of it.

Dave
69S

Howdy, from Texas.

You should be able to snag a bargain out there on the Left coast.

Your head is already in the right place; you want a decent runner in fair shape. Best if you can take a test ride of 20 - 30 miles including a highway run of 5 or 10 minutes, then stop in the shade and take a while looking it over for obvious oil leaks. Stay away from early (68/69) models and "Combat" models unless they have documented history (early frames can crack severely, and Combats can have several maladies that need care). Also fiberglass gas tanks are typically trouble waiting to happen; VERY FEW RE-SEAL JOBS ACTUALLY WORK RELIABLY, unless done by a known reputable pro.

Beyond that-

Fastback = boat-tail seat and "lips" on front of seat that fit against recesses in the gas tank

Roadster = "plain" bike with standard seating & handlebars, medium sized gas tank, low pipes

Interstate = big gas tank, mid-rise handlebars

High Rider = tiny gas tank, tall handlebars, tall seat back, sissy bar

Production Racer (replica) = Typically yellow bodywork, clip-on handlebars & rearset pegs, bullet fairing & windscreen, bum-stop racing seat

S & SS = roadster spec bike with upswept pipes (one each side or both on left)

Post pix and info on potential purchases and we can probably help with additional info & insight...

there is some basic info at http://www.sump-publishing.co.uk/norton commando.htm

and be patient, I'm also in N. California and picked up the bike in my avatar photo for $4000 a year ago....some sellers are still trying to get the economic boom prices like $10K or so but solid Commandos can be found for much less these days. As others have said get the best bike you can and it will be cheaper in the long run, bought a fixer '69 750 long ago that was a mechanical disaster but my current '73 850 has been reliable (by Norton standards at least :wink: )

1) No matter what you get, buy the best one that you can afford. I have a reliable but otherwise so-so '70 Roadster and probably have spent over $10,000 on it in 25 years excluding the purchase price ($300). It has been great fun and I have learned a lot, but there have been some rough patches too.
2) Be a little patient. Once you ride one you will be hooked. That bike might not be the best one for you.


Greg

Hey you guys are quick!

I'm familiar with the models and the subtle changes made between different years. I'm certain I want to get a roadster, maybe an interstate, and I don't mind whether its an early 750 or a later 850. I'm going to stay away from a short-stroke/ combat because Ive read and heard they can be ticking time bombs..I plan on riding mostly in town, to campus, work etc.. I will hardly ride the freeway or highways. I love the cafe set-up Commando - Drop bars, Corbin Gunfighter, red paint = sexy. However, I'm pretty conservative when it classic vehicles, and I will probably like to keep it mostly unmodified.

Questions:
1. Is there a HUGE difference between the pre-72' drum brakes and the later front disc upgrade? I am more interested in safety rather than performance.

2. Ive seen some people exchange the twin Amals for a single Mikuni. Is the single easier to jet, maintain and clean compared with the Amals?

3. Approximately how much mileage can an original unrestored engine undergo before it needs a full rebuild? I know its depends many variables, but from your experiences..

Bike for sale:
This is a bike in San Diego. I will be there next weekend checking out UC San Diego as a candidate for Graduate School and I was gunna drop by and check it out.
http://www.trophymotorcycles.com/site/b ... -commando/

That one at Trophy Motorcycles looks complete and well kept (S/S brake line, new fuel lines, etc. - somebody's taken care of the little things), and I think the price, while not a screaming bargain, is fair. I know nothing about Trophy but if they have a good reputation and the bike starts and runs well on a test ride, you may have found a very good one.

Best of luck.

Yeah, the Trophy bike has steel tank, disc brake with up graded resivoir, rearsets, they must mean stainless spokes and not stainless forks, all good. There is what looks like an oil leak out of the right rocker cover, need to check that during a test ride.

BrianK said:

That one at Trophy Motorcycles looks complete and well kept (S/S brake line, new fuel lines, etc. - somebody's taken care of the little things), and I think the price, while not a screaming bargain, is fair. I know nothing about Trophy but if they have a good reputation and the bike starts and runs well on a test ride, you may have found a very good one.

Best of luck.

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If you can afford it that's not a bad price, the front brake has been upgraded to a drill disk brake. But it looks clean if it runs well… your search got a lot shorter.

1. Is there a HUGE difference between the pre-72' drum brakes and the later front disc upgrade? I am more interested in safety rather than performance.

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The stock Commando disc brake is a poor performer. The master cylinder bore size is way too large for the piston size of the caliper. Sleeve the master cylinder bore to 12mm and you'll improve braking performance to adequate. Replacing the caliper with a two piston caliper and a properly matched master cylinder will give you outstanding results for a single disc brake. If you stick with Vintage Brake recommendations you'll be very happy.

Hi and welcome. You are very lucky & smart to have found this site & do some learning before buying one. I don't know anything about that place or the bike in San Diego but judging by the modifications and it's overall looks I would think that's a good fair price if it runns well & seems healthy. It has had a nice master cylinder upgrade to the stock disc one & I don't think any came with disc brakes in 1970 did they.? Looks nice to me.

I noticed that tidbit of oil, and wasn't sure how problematic it would be. It was my understanding that British bikes just leaked a bit of oil.. Kind of added to the character of the bike I guess! :lol: I think its nice that the front brake has been upgraded to the disc.

Are the oil leak issues common with Commandos? Is it something you just have to live with, or are they not that bad to fix?

By the way, the bike is for sale at $5300 not $5800, according to their Craigslist ad.

Great advise from all those above. Resist at all costs buying a basket case or poor condition bike. I see many people carting home 1500 to 2000 dollar dogs thinking they got a deal. Not so. One can find a nice unmolested Norton for under 5k. Stay with as stock a one as you can find. There is nothing wrong with a stock set up. All these modifications owners go through are to me a waste of time and money. If you want a period bike, keep it period, and ride and enjoy it. Engines that are cared for will go an easy 50k miles and more. Rebuilds at 10k are not called for unless mechanical failures occur. For me, the ideal is a stock , unmolested example at a reasonable price. I have a 71 exactly like the one you are looking at but in all stock trim. She has about 35k miles on her and still puts a big grin on my face. Get a Norton, you will love it.

Magork said:

I noticed that tidbit of oil, and wasn't sure how problematic it would be. It was my understanding that British bikes just leaked a bit of oil.. Kind of added to the character of the bike I guess! :lol: I think its nice that the front brake has been upgraded to the disc.

Are the oil leak issues common with Commandos? Is it something you just have to live with, or are they not that bad to fix?

By the way, the bike is for sale at $5300 not $5800, according to their Craigslist ad.

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Depends on where it's leaking oil from. It's either a minor annoyance or a minor annoyance. :mrgreen:

Sort of surprised at all the positive comments about the bike at Trophy. Looks like a pig with lipstick (fresh paint). $5,300 seems high for that bike...should be able to pick up something like that for $3k with just a little bit of patience.

Are you reasonably capable with tools, have a decent collection of them, know how to read a maintenance manual, will have a decent place to work on the bike (living room will do) and have a certain amount of patience? All make owning a Norton a lot easier.
If you can have a car as well as Norton would be good idea.

With almost 37,000 miles on the clock of this bike it would be good to know how many are on the current set of rings.

Probably an unknown so I'd look for a compression test to look for eveness between cylinders and a look at plugs for oilyness (shiney black) of flat black for running rich which is usually just a carb adjustment fix.
If prepped for sale probably has fresh plugs so any sign of either can be instructive.

Should start within three kicks if primed and choked correctly. Shop guy should show how it's done.
Until you are comfortable with its weight I suggest you start it while on it's center stand so you can concentrate on the kick.
I have best luck starting the kick at about 9:30.
Give it a good follow through push.

After riding for a while to warm up let idle for a couple of minutes then run up to 3,000 and watch for smoke, which would be worn intake guides or bad intake valve seals. Steady smoke more likely rings. Any smoke is at least a head job. Full head jobs including guides, springs and valves start around $700 depending on the shop.
Rings may also mean a bore job plus new pistons. Haven't needed to do mine but I'll guess at least $500 if using Emgo pistons/rings.
These prices are with you pulling the head and barrel and handing them to shop and you reinstalling them.
Assuming first time I'd figure a day for removal and a day to put back together.

Clutch pull should not be too hard. Two finger on a well set up clutch.
Recent thread on this site on how to set up clutch for best pull.
Shifting through the gears up and down, easy getting into neutral, easy getting into first.
No grab when putting into first, no slip under hard excelleration in upper gears.

Although the exhaust rocker cover leak may just indicate a need to tighten it's hard to understand why PO or shop didn't deal with it.
Stripped stud not allowing snugging down maybe.

Nortons don't have to leak. Mine doesn't except drip from kickstart I will solve with lipped seal this winter.
Reed valve in breather releaves crankcase pressure and produces slight vacuum that usually prevents leaks.
Lots of threads on this site that discuss the pros and cons of various kinds. I've put a Mike's one on mine and easy.

I see it has stock Amals and they are known to wear so may be hard to judge their condition.
Conversion to Mikuni VM 34 very popular for ease of starting and tuning. Kits including manifold and pre jetted carb available. Check out Sudco.
Stock carbs may indicate stock ignition. You will want to confirm.
Purists leave the points but many including myself put electronic ignition in for ease of starting and set and forget.
Boyer is the most common but there are a number of others. I have a Pazon I'm happy with.
If you want to add to bike about $150 if bought directly from manuf in new Zealand.

Most parts are available from a number of good sources. OldBritts my personal favorite because great site and lots of helpful articles and fast accurate service.

Bike looks pretty good but condition of pipes and cases lacking real polish indicates it may not have been as pampered as some on this site.
I'd look at back sprocket to see if teeth have worn to fishooks.

If you get it get back in touch with us and tell us all about it.
We always like pictures.

Good luck and welcome to the club
Bob

builder said:

Sort of surprised at all the positive comments about the bike at Trophy. Looks like a pig with lipstick (fresh paint). $5,300 seems high for that bike...should be able to pick up something like that for $3k with just a little bit of patience.

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Depends on where you are.

Sort of surprised at all the positive comments about the bike at Trophy. Looks like a pig with lipstick (fresh paint). $5,300 seems high for that bike...should be able to pick up something like that for $3k with just a little bit of patience.

Click to expand...

Where? I don't see any around. The 3k to 4k bikes I have seen are little more than a basket case, just bolted back together.

Diablouph said:

Sort of surprised at all the positive comments about the bike at Trophy. Looks like a pig with lipstick (fresh paint). $5,300 seems high for that bike...should be able to pick up something like that for $3k with just a little bit of patience.

Click to expand...

Where? I don't see any around. The 3k to 4k bikes I have seen are little more than a basket case, just bolted back together.

Click to expand...

If you're looking on eBay, craigslist, and at local dealers that sell vintage bikes; you won't find them that way. Cali is going to be tougher, as the value is inflated there, but still can be done. You're not going to find them talking to other Commando owners...or advertised.

It takes effort...searching on the internet or reading the local want ads is not going to cut it.

Thanks for the advice guys! It will just take a little patience and a bit of hunting to find the right bike for me.

The bike at Trophy is a little out of my budget, but I would still like to check it out. My budget is closer to $4k.

builder said:

If you're looking on eBay, craigslist, and at local dealers that sell vintage bikes; you won't find them that way. Cali is going to be tougher, as the value is inflated there, but still can be done. You're not going to find them talking to other Commando owners...or advertised.

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Builder, what other avenues do you suggest? I can't go snooping around in people's garages or backyards looking for a Commando.. Well, shouldn't anyway... :lol: