cNw and 961

Hi

I'm actually enjoying mine after 3500 km I did the dielectric grease on the sensor at the top of the air box today so hopefully I don't get stuck in the rain again so something that eliminates the need for that would be good also top priority a quite clutch basket I would spend the money in a heart beat to shut that racket up, I am getting use to the fact that it's part of it but quite would be great.
I bought a lot of parts and consulted Cnw when rebuilding my 750 commando and now have a great reliable bike I'd look at anything you put up Matt thanks for being interested .
 
I've just been using a tail bag for for carrying a little gear. It works quite well, but I wrap the straps with a micro fiber rage (which doesn't look great until I come up with another idea) becaise the straps scuff the paint.
 
dimitri said:
One more thing:

Oil dipstick! Don't know if Norton updated it already, but i would love one that is removable by hand (original one is just to tight with hot engine. My dealer even made a tool to unscrew it)

And it is too short below low level mark.

Nice would be if the distance from bottom of dipstick to low level mark would be a round amount of fluid, to make it easy to estimate the amount of oil needed to fill up to proper level instead of trying 3 times.
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TonyA was working on this dipstick problem. Any updates Tony?
 
I thought that Idea died out. Essentially , I got the impression that the dip stick conversion was silly based on OTHERS comments. Also , In my test I found NO reduction in oil discharge to the air box at any oil level I tested . As you know I have used the long bolt in place of my dipstick to give me more reach in to the oil tank. This was not so I could run the oil lower all the time but to be able to monitor it for a longer period of time during a long trip. This longer dip stick may encourage owners to run the oil too low and that was not my intent. I am still running that long bolt stick in my bike. So yes John I have all the numbers and the photos and I can repost them. But if I read Dimitri's post it seems he wants the oil level lines on the stick to correspond to an even number of oil . Lets say 2.5 L comes to the low oil line etc.. This to me is not essential to the issue we were investigating...
If you look back you will find that on MY bike during an oil / filter change 2.5 L of oil was still below the bottom Norton oil dip stick . So putting the oil to the middle of the lines or the top line is 3 + L of oil . Because the frames are all slightly different (hand made) the capacity could be slightly different between bikes . I would love to have a dip stick that is a little longer . BUT do not change the location of the factory High and Low line marks !
 
I agree that the whole dipstick oil level issue is done.

I have for some time allowed my oil level to stay just below the low mark on dipstick. It seemed to prevent the breather from blowing oil into the airbox. The oil level remained stable for quite some time. I leave the airbox plug out, and noticed no new oil stains on my X-Pipe. I felt that was that, problem solved! However, after a few days of thrashing my 961 after my recent remap, I once again noticed new oil on the X-Pipe and under the bike. I’m beginning to think that (1), the valve cover breather is likely going to blow significant amounts of oil saturated vapor into the airbox regardless of the oil level. (2) I think continually running a low oil level could be harmful to the engine eventually. When starting a cold motor with a low oil level, the oil pump has to force thick, cold oil through the filter. The cold oil moves through filter more slowly than when hot. There is a danger that the oil pump could be starved for oil initially while waiting for oil to pass through the filter. With a full oil supply, the pump would have more of a reserve before the oil from the filter begins flowing to the pump.

I think Richard-7 was the one that indicated that the solution is to reroute the breather to the oil tank somehow. I’m beginning to believe this as well now. If you look to the old 750/850 Norton, the breathers were routed to the oil tank, and a separate ‘fume’ line was routed from the oil tank to the airbox. Maybe that is the right way to go.
 
BritTwit said:
I agree that the whole dipstick oil level issue is done.

I have for some time allowed my oil level to stay just below the low mark on dipstick. It seemed to prevent the breather from blowing oil into the airbox. The oil level remained stable for quite some time. I leave the airbox plug out, and noticed no new oil stains on my X-Pipe. I felt that was that, problem solved! However, after a few days of thrashing my 961 after my recent remap, I once again noticed new oil on the X-Pipe and under the bike. I’m beginning to think that (1), the valve cover breather is likely going to blow significant amounts of oil saturated vapor into the airbox regardless of the oil level. (2) I think continually running a low oil level could be harmful to the engine eventually. When starting a cold motor with a low oil level, the oil pump has to force thick, cold oil through the filter. The cold oil moves through filter more slowly than when hot. There is a danger that the oil pump could be starved for oil initially while waiting for oil to pass through the filter. With a full oil supply, the pump would have more of a reserve before the oil from the filter begins flowing to the pump.

I think Richard-7 was the one that indicated that the solution is to reroute the breather to the oil tank somehow. I’m beginning to believe this as well now. If you look to the old 750/850 Norton, the breathers were routed to the oil tank, and a separate ‘fume’ line was routed from the oil tank to the airbox. Maybe that is the right way to go.
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Wasn't me who said that. :mrgreen:
I know how to solve it but it is very involved and I'm reluctant to share until I can prove it out. I have someone who has and It is working so far. Also, I have someone else who has designed a bolt on replacement part that so far is working well. It is still in testing. Plus I know of another group who are making great progress. Just hang tight for now. A solution in near.

PS - Do not run your oil low or leave the plug out of the drain. Just drain after each ride and monitor oil levels --- For now...
 
I would like to see an improved dipstick. The current one has several problems. It is difficult to unscrew by hand unless you have pre-loosened it with a tool. However, there is no tool that fits the "cross" on the head. A flat or "paddle" shape on the top of the dipstick, so it could be unscrewed without a tool, would be very helpful. As well a blade-style dipstick makes it much easier to read the level when your oil is new. I recently changed my oil and because it is so clean, I cannot tell its precise location on the dipstick because of that. On another bike I have, the wide blade-style dipstick makes it much easier to read when the oils is new and clear.

Other aftermarket upgrades:

spring-loaded food pegs (mentioned by many previous posters,)

a louder horn

and hmmmmm still thinking!!!! :D
 
Britfan60 said:
I've just been using a tail bag for for carrying a little gear. It works quite well, but I wrap the straps with a micro fiber rage (which doesn't look great until I come up with another idea) becaise the straps scuff the paint.
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Why not a tank bag?
 
swooshdave said:
Britfan60 said:
I've just been using a tail bag for for carrying a little gear. It works quite well, but I wrap the straps with a micro fiber rage (which doesn't look great until I come up with another idea) becaise the straps scuff the paint.
Click to expand...

Why not a tank bag?
Click to expand...

Yes a tank bag would be good!
 
TonyA said:
But if I read Dimitri's post it seems he wants the oil level lines on the stick to correspond to an even number of oil . Lets say 2.5 L comes to the low oil line etc.. This to me is not essential to the issue we were investigating...
Click to expand...

That was not exactly what i meant. I don't argue on the low level and high level marks. But if there is a way to estimate how much oil is needed from the current level to the correct level without a high guessing-rate. That would be nice.
Most cars indicate some info on the dipstick. For example: 0,5l between low and high level mark.

The impossibility for unscrewing the stick is more important to me. That prevents me from checking on a regular base.
 
When I highly-tighten the oil fill cap It is very difficult to remove later. When I Lightly tighten the cap I CAN remove it . The trick here is make it just barely tight , It works . If the cap is made with a larger better handle , owners will just tighten it MORE !
 
TonyA said:
When I highly-tighten the oil fill cap It is very difficult to remove later. When I Lightly tighten the cap I CAN remove it . The trick here is make it just barely tight , It works . If the cap is made with a larger better handle , owners will just tighten it MORE !
Click to expand...

The problem is if you snug the cap up, it is difficult to remove without a tool. If you don't snug the cap tight, oil can leak out the top. A rubber washer on the dipstick would help but would throw the reading off a bit.
 
Mine has an 0-ring under the cap. Never had an issue. Maybe older ones do not have o-rings?????? Mine is 2014 I never checked if my dads had an o-ring. I'll find out.
 
My bike (delivered May 2012) has an O-ring under the dipstick cap, too. I have recently seen a longer dipstick, as far as I know it was provided by Norton UK. The high level mark was in the middle of low and high of the original dipstick and the low level mark accordingly halfway lower than the original.
For what concerns the amount of oil in airbox, it is in my opinion more a question of outside temperature than the oil level. We had this year for Swiss circumstances quite a hot summer and I noticed more oil in the airbox as usual: higher temperature->less cooling->more vaporization of oil... (?)
Raphael, Switzerland
 
Hey guys,

Bumping this thread as I am getting ready to introduce some parts and tools for the 961 on my site.

Richard-7 and I have had some good talks and have decided to start working together. So initially it will be his well thought out parts and tools ( one07 ) that will be available. I will also have a section on my site where his manuals can be down loaded from. These manuals will still be available for free as before

It's our intention to have all of his parts list available and we will be the only ones offering these items. In other words, he wont be selling them directly anymore. Of course, there will be a bit of a transition period as we prep and update the website and get the parts inventory to the cNw shop.

http://coloradonortonworks.com/catalog/

Shop dog Ivey is pictured on the 961 section since she pretty much rules the shop and everything that goes on here

I expect this to be completely in place by new years....maybe earlier

Looking forward to working with Richard and hope to keep adding to this section on my site

Thanks

Matt / Colorado Norton Works

http://www.coloradonortonworks.com
 
Matt,
Great news.
I like the organization of the CNW website too.
Man, lately there has been plenty of good news for Norton owners from CNW, the factory and the US distributor.
I need to stick a pin in myself to see if I’m dreaming. :lol:
Regards.
 
cNw said:
Of course, there will be a bit of a transition period as we prep and update the website and get the parts inventory to the cNw shop.
Click to expand...

Don't I know it. I made the first transitional purchase two days ago. In any event, I am very happy to see this!
 
Thank you for everyone's support. Would have happened earlier but with the NC bike accident things got delayed. All back up and running now. we have a lot more to offer than available now but need to fully prove out prototype items before putting into production. And a SPECIAL THANKS TO JOHN (G81 CAN CYCLE) for introducing us and helping me when I was by myself at the rally after the accident. He did not hesitate to take time out of his vacation to drive me to the hospital a few times and to get the U-HAUL. I felt like I was annoying him but he still talks to me so thanks John for everything.
 
Glastonbury Biker said:
Getting away from carb & EFI issues and back the the original point, perhaps one of the best after-market parts would be a redesigned side stand that holds the bike at a safe angle without the worry that it might roll off, and also has a kick down bar that is easy to reach, with boots, without knocking the bike back into gear.
I also agree with the point about the headlamp shell. I had occasion to remove the headlight recently and the poorly designed retaining screw mount broke. A dollop of arodite fixed it.......for now at least.
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Hi All,

Just like to mention that the headlights were changed to metal body ones approx 1 year ago and are available to buy if anyone would like to upgrade (order P/N 6700060 x 1 and 6700061 x 2)

Also, as mentioned in other posts, the side stand length was changed approx 1 year ago. The current side stand (P/N 6070047) measures 209mm from the centre of the pivot to the centre of the foot plate. Anyone who feels like there side stand is too long, please check and measure it. The new side stand is available to purchase if required, please contact your local dealer.
 
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