clutch sticking OR stuck - ??? - another noobie question

lazyeye6 · Jan 18, 2020

At the risk of turning this into an oil thread...............the OEM bronze and steel clutch plates have a tendency to slip at WOT due to
too much oil misting onto them. Only way to correct this is to clean them often. It is said that using Automatic Transmission Fluid Type
F as a substitute for the Norton specified oil reduces this tendency. It is also said that reducing the quantity of fluid from 7 oz to 5 oz
is helpful in reducing the migration of fluid onto the clutch plates.
That said, it sounds as though your clutch plates are stuck together from years of sitting compressed together with a film of oil-turned-to-glue. Clean them. Get a Dyno Dave clutch rod seal. As this motorcycle has sat for years, it has wet sumped and it is likely that crankcase oil
migrated through the lower inner chain case mounting bolt. You probably won't be able to determine if the crank oil seal leaks until
after you get it running, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it now anyway.

Richard Tool · Jan 18, 2020

When cleaning clutch plates use gasoline (petrol) - NEVER kerosene (paraffin)

Torontonian · Jan 18, 2020

Richard Tool said:
When cleaning clutch plates use gasoline (petrol) - NEVER kerosene (paraffin)

And wear chemical resistant mechanic's gloves. And do it all outdoors. Gasoline is an amazing cleaner yet nowadays there are other cleaning solvents available that are safer. Maybe others can recommend one or 2 . I use Gunk brand.

Tornado · Jan 18, 2020

My 850 had this sticking plate issue. Was caused by flooded primary due to blown crankseal due to wet sumping. I already had the proper clutch compressor tool bought from a fellow member here. My Haynes manual suggests to make this tool from an ABS drainpipe end cap, 3" diameter I believe, and the correct threaded rod or bolt, couple of nuts and washers. Pretty simple really.
When I cleaned the plates, recommendation was to use oven cleaner and follow with brake cleaner spray to remove residue. Worked well.
Oh, another good tip was to use a magnet to help pull the plates out of the basket. My original brass plates are now working well, done 4k miles on them since getting bike 2 yrs ago.

maylar · Jan 18, 2020

I use carb cleaner spray and a scuff pad.

MexicoMike · Jan 18, 2020

I have never had sticking or slipping clutch plates or any problem with the Norton clutch that required disassembly/cleaning to repair it. I have always used ATF in my 850's chain case. Same clutch metals/friction discs have been in the bike since I bought it in '06. Whether ATF makes a difference or not, I can't say but I don't recall having any problems with my original '71 Commando running engine oil in the chain case. I like ATF because it's easy to identify if leaking and, we all know that it works great with clutch packs since car automatic transmissions have clutch packs that look just like motorcycle clutch packs!

Obviously, sitting unused for years can cause a clutch to seize. Car clutches will do the same thing over years. I have a car that sits for 5-6 months and I almost always have to break the clutch loose on it's first drive - Car in gear, brake pedal held FIRMLY on, clutch pedal fully down (disengaged), engage starter.

Richard Tool · Jan 18, 2020

Years ago the company I worked for bought a brand new Kubota tractor- in the literature kit was a funky wooden wedge . What the h_ ll ?? ... Yep , you guessed it - it fit between the clutch pedal arm and floor plate slot to keep the clutch disengaged if parked for a while .

maylar · Jan 18, 2020

MexicoMike said:
I have never had sticking or slipping clutch plates or any problem with the Norton clutch that required disassembly/cleaning to repair it.

Consider yourself blessed. Clutch cleaning is a regular ritual for many of us. Bronze plates tend to slip, Barnett plates tend to stick and make finding neutral difficult as well as the clunk going into first. ATF helps, as does an adjusted clutch stack and Dave's shaft seal.

Ain't gonna plague me any more, with a belt drive and dry primary

joe czech · Jan 18, 2020

.

maylar said:
So, does this mean you don't actually have a problem?

no - still think I have a problem. trying to figure out what I need to do. reading over the service manuals, and maybe surf a few youtube videos. disassembling and cleaning for starters. probably address any seal issues. not sure - all new territory to me. need to proceed slowly and with caution - don't want to cause myself more problems.

Torontonian · Jan 18, 2020

The clutch center can get notches in it too preventing clutch plates freeing up when needed. Ain't life grand ?

ELLIS · Jan 18, 2020

If you have a MK3 Commando it is recommended to use 20/50 engine oil with no additives or friction modifiers. This is because the primary chain adjusters need this to properly keep the adjusters working correctly. ATF is too thin for this operation. Do not overfill the chaincase oil as this will cause the clutch to slip. Recommended oil capacity is 200cc. I put in 180cc as it only needs enough to wet the chain now and then. Also 180cc is also enough to lube the chain adjusters.

ELLIS

maylar · Jan 19, 2020

joe czech said:
.

no - still think I have a problem. trying to figure out what I need to do. reading over the service manuals, and maybe surf a few youtube videos. disassembling and cleaning for starters. probably address any seal issues. not sure - all new territory to me. need to proceed slowly and with caution - don't want to cause myself more problems.

One more tool that you absolutely need is the drive sprocket removal tool. http://www.oldbritts.com/19_064297.html
Some universal automotive steering wheel pullers will work for that too.

Tornado · Jan 19, 2020

maylar said:
One more tool that you absolutely need is the drive sprocket removal tool. http://www.oldbritts.com/19_064297.html
Some universal automotive steering wheel pullers will work for that too.

Yes, I just use a standard one I picked up locally from automotive store. Something like $15 bucks and works perfectly.

Craig · Jan 19, 2020

Yup , bet most have a universal puller of some type ... mine is short length of mower blade , lots of room for holes ....

Guido · Jan 19, 2020

Torontonian said:
The clutch center can get notches in it too preventing clutch plates freeing up when needed. Ain't life grand ?

I was wondering when someone was going to mention that. I put new Barnett clutches in when mine was sticking only to realize the clutch center was notched causing it to not be able to find neutral. Got a new hardened center, added a .80" steel plate for the stack height and a new cable.
For the past 7 years it has been such an easy pull and it finds neutral effortlessly. Do those 3 things and you will be surprised how nice it is to ride.

joe czech · Jan 19, 2020

Guido said:
I was wondering when someone was going to mention that. I put new Barnett clutches in when mine was sticking only to realize the clutch center was notched causing it to not be able to find neutral. Got a new hardened center, added a .80" steel plate for the stack height and a new cable.
For the past 7 years it has been such an easy pull and it finds neutral effortlessly. Do those 3 things and you will be surprised how nice it is to ride.

not familiar with some of the terminology - "notched clutch center not being able to find neutral," and adding a .080" steel plate. may get back to you and pick your brain on this one. think I need to educate myself on the how's and why's before attempting anything -

Niagara850 · Jan 19, 2020

The bronze clutch plates wear the clutch centre over time notching it, causing it to drag. Difficulty finding neutral, pulling while stopped at lights, stalling etc. Something to check when you pull it apart to inspect and clean. Setting the stack height properly significantly lightens the clutch lever pull. Often means just adding a plate. Have a look.

http://www.oldbritts.com/ob_clutch_info.html

MexicoMike · Jan 19, 2020

Yep, a properly set up Norton clutch is an easy two-finger pull. A badly set up clutch will have your hand cramping in 15 minutes of stop/go traffic.

998cc · Jan 19, 2020

maylar said:
One more tool that you absolutely need is the drive sprocket removal tool. http://www.oldbritts.com/19_064297.html
Some universal automotive steering wheel pullers will work for that too.

Agreed! While removing my engine sprocket last year, it become obvious that a very stout puller is necessary. Here is a link to the discussion:

https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/another-tight-engine-sprocket.27477/#post-414742

May the force be with you!

Regards,
~998cc

rvich · Jan 20, 2020

A sprocket removal tool might be a good idea, but you don't need one to check the clutch. But you do need to have a tool for compressing the diaphragm. You should also get a workshop manual or download a digital one if the process of using the compression tool doesn't make sense.

clutch sticking OR stuck - ??? - another noobie question

Similar threads