Clutch slipping at high RPM...

Hey I noticed after some fast blasts yesterday the clutch started slipping at 5000rpm+.
Also the adjustment knob on the clutch pull handle somehow loosened itself up and had to be tightened to take up the slack.

I ordered these:
and the clutch tool. I also noticed a little drip from the gearbox after those hard runs- Could oil be making it's way onto the clutch and making it slip?

Any good write-ups on clutch changing?
Last Q is, I ordered a new rear chain, do I just take the wheel off and slip the chain off the sprockets, or do I have to break the links?

Thanks guys!

nidyanazo said:

I ordered a new rear chain, do I just take the wheel off and slip the chain off the sprockets, or do I have to break the links?

Click to expand...

That will depend on whether your old and new chains both have a connecting link/split link with a spring clip, or not? Some types of chain also come with a "rivet link" or "press fit" link.

If they do, then you will only need to move the wheel forward in the swingarm slots, remove the spring clip from the connecting link, (or grind the heads off the rivet link or use a chain tool to separate the link?) then remove one end of the old chain from the connecting link, and then connect one end of the new chain to the old chain connecting link, and then use the old chain to pull the new chain around the output sprocket. A spring link can then be fitted or a rivet



If the new chain is an "endless" type, then you would probably have to remove the primary drive, gearbox mainshaft and wheel to fit it, unless you cut it and use a connecting link?

Hello!

My clutch was slipping like yours. I bought the barnettpack, and installed it.
Combined with a cleanup in the basket and the steelplates, I experienced instant improvment. I was a happy rider for some years,then the barnetts started to slip.
I decided to slightly sandblast the steelplates to brake the glazed surface. This gave me a ON/OFF clutch = BAD !!.
The solution was to revert to the bronzeplates.This gave me a somewhat grabby clutch, but no slipping!The grabbines faded away over time.

I split the finaldrivechain, and use it to pull the new one in place.
First time I decide how much will come off the new chain, and second time I fit it with chainlock!

Benton

If you have the bronze clutch plates (you did not say which plates you have) they are likely still good, but have oil on them. You may not need a new clutch. This is a dry clutch and they need to be cleaned. Thoroughly clean all the plates, steel and bronze, in solvent or gasoline. Reinstall the clutch dry--do not put any oil on the plates.

You may be leaking gear oil into the primary which would come down the clutch pushrod and cause the slipping you are experiencing. You can cure this with a $20 part made by Dyno Dave. It cured my clutch slipping and there are a lot of these seals in service. They work. See this link and scroll down to "Commando clutch rod seal" :

http://atlanticgreen.com/store.htm

Here is a helpful link with lots of technical articles including one on your clutch. Do check the flatness and thickness of the plates:

http://www.oldbritts.com/ob_tech.html

Also, make sure your clutch is properly adjusted per the manual, especially at the clutch push rod.

Good luck!

Thanks alot everyone,
I will see how it goes- the clutch should be arriving soon.