Clutch rod seal install question

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Coco

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I've got the Comeau clutch rod seal and have a question before installing.

There is not enough threads on the end of the counter shaft to install the seal. Can I ditch the round washer under the clutch nut to expose more threads? I'd obviously keep the tab washer to lock the nut in place. How tight should that nut be? Should I really lay into it or is really snug enough?
 
I have pasted a link to Norvils fitting instructions.

http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/techtalk11.htm

With regards to the clutch mainshaft nut, some people recommend not tightening more than 40ft/lb (whereas the manual says 70 ft/lb), as all of the strain is taken by the circlip on the mainshaft that locates the clutch and has apparently been known to fail...........but not by me.
 
Coco said:
Can I ditch the round washer under the clutch nut to expose more threads? I'd obviously keep the tab washer to lock the nut in place.
Click to expand...

Yes, I did that.



Coco said:
How tight should that nut be? Should I really lay into it or is really snug enough?
Click to expand...

As Reggie has pointed out, the published torque figure of "70 lb./ft." for the nut is too high!
 
Thanks Reggie for the link and thanks L.A.B. for the extra opinion confirming my hunch.

I'll play it safe and go 40 - 45 lbs on the nut. I'll ditch the round washer and see what happens.

I don't want to fiddle with removing shims as my clutch basket alignment is dead nuts on.

This is my first clutch install so I figured I'd better ask here before I go bashing around in there so thanks guys, I appreciate the help.
 
Without the clutch nut washer and using just the tab washer, there is not quite enough room to fit the seal properly as the seal butts up or jams against the nut and it's not supposed to do that.

I really don't want to take things apart and mess with the shims as everything is lined up perfectly. I'm starting to think that skimming down the nut is the answer. How much material can I safely skim off that nut and not worry about it?

Opinions?
 
I think your answer is in the fitting instructions:

3. You may reduce the depth of the clutch seal down to 0.120” by grinding or filing.

4. Last you can grind down the thickness of the clutch centre nut 040373, which is 0.383” thick.
 
Coco,

Mine did about the same thing. I had good thread engagement but it did not make-up far enough to secure the O-ring. I backed it off and put a 1/4-inch "AN" thin flat washer (small OD, thin) between the CRS and the shaft to shim it up. Worked out perfect and required no machining (or disassembly). Ended up with a light O-ring squeeze on the clutch rod. Backed it all off, scrubbed with carb cleaner, re-assembled with loctite....good to go.

Its hard to build a new component (CRS) that works perfectly every time when the tolerances for the mating parts were loose.

Z
 
trinorman said:
I think your answer is in the fitting instructions:

3. You may reduce the depth of the clutch seal down to 0.120” by grinding or filing.

4. Last you can grind down the thickness of the clutch centre nut 040373, which is 0.383” thick.
Click to expand...

I'm going to get my boss to mill down the clutch nut for me as I don't want to mess with skimming the seal just yet. I'll try that and see how it works.
 
zackybilly1 said:
Coco,

Mine did about the same thing. I had good thread engagement but it did not make-up far enough to secure the O-ring. I backed it off and put a 1/4-inch "AN" thin flat washer (small OD, thin) between the CRS and the shaft to shim it up. Worked out perfect and required no machining (or disassembly). Ended up with a light O-ring squeeze on the clutch rod. Backed it all off, scrubbed with carb cleaner, re-assembled with loctite....good to go.

Its hard to build a new component (CRS) that works perfectly every time when the tolerances for the mating parts were loose.

Z
Click to expand...

Hey thanks. I'll give that a whirl before I go skimming the nut down. I'm a bit dopey when it comes to some fastener terms so I don't know what "AN" is but I assume it's a thin flat washer, which I should have plenty of at home.
 
Coco,

AN = Areonatical spec.

I used the "L" series which are the thinner of the AN washers. They are a 1/32 (.031 +/-.003) thick, 1/2" OD, .265" ID. I order them online ($6/100 for 18-8 stainless) but a local fastner vendor may have them. The standard AN washer is 1/16" thick.

On the other hand, if you have access to machining, just have you boss make you a shim. Easier than thinning up the nut. Drill the ID, turn the OD and then, just part off a few of various thicknesses. Save the drilled drop in case you need something different. You just need a light O-ring squeeze on the clutch rod or O-ring won't last as long.


Z
 
I just have access to a mill so skimming the nut would be easiest. I'm gonna take .100 off the nut or at the very least .080 and see if that works.
 
I trimmed the nut down and the seal fits now, without utilizing the stock, round clutch nut washer and using only the tab washer.

Part of me wants to trim the nut down a bit more so I can use both washers. Maybe I'm being paranoid.

I'm sure everything will be fine using the tab washer only but figured I'd ease my mind and check here first.

So please reassure me everything will be fine just using the tab washer under the clutch nut.
 
Coco said:
So please reassure me everything will be fine just using the tab washer under the clutch nut.
Click to expand...

I can't remember how many years mine has been like that, but it's never caused any problems. Loctite the clutch nut, as well as the seal nut threads if you like,-just to be 110% sure?
 
L.A.B. said:
Coco said:
So please reassure me everything will be fine just using the tab washer under the clutch nut.
Click to expand...

I can't remember how many years mine has been like that, but it's never caused any problems. Loctite the clutch nut, as well as the seal nut threads if you like,-just to be 110% sure?
Click to expand...

Good times. Thanks L.A.B. Sometimes I worry about the most minor things.

It will go on tonight and it will be done. I'm just stalling so I don't have to start making my wiring harness.
 
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