clutch removal, 73 750

I tried to remove my clutch last night (bought the tool, read both Clymer and Haynes manuals) and the center seems to be pulling away from the diaphragm when tightened. The Haynes manual states"...turn the nut in a clockwise direction until the diaphragm spring is flat and free to rotate." The diaphragm becomes markedly convex when tension is applied and the retaining circlip seems to have quite a bit of tension on it when the tool is bottomed out. I haven't tried to remove the circlip, and thought that some good advice is probably what is needed, before force.

Thanks

Russ

Whatever you do, do not attempt to remove the circlip until the spring feels loose in the housing (spring rotates easily under the circlip).

To use the tool,

First remove the clutch adjuster screw with its adjuster nut from the spring centre.

Screw the clutch tool's bolt into the adjuster hole by about six turns.

Then tighten the nut, (which should be positioned on the bolt between the bolt head and the tool) down against the tool, while you hold the bolt head to stop the assembly rotating, about three or four turns of the nut should do it, the spring should then flatten and become loose? If there is a second nut on the bolt (on the other side of the tool) make sure it can't come into contact with the tool as you tighten the first nut down?


Once the spring is free to rotate you can safely remove the circlip.

Someone said "A good workman doesn't blame his tools.", however, perhaps the bolt in my puller is not of sufficient length (approx 2.5 inches, with threads 3/4 of the total length). When looking at the Clymer manual, the tool pictured has a significantly longer bolt...when postitioning my puller (nut on the bolt between the head and tool body), it cannot make contact with the diaphragm center. Perhaps I need a different bolt?

rusty said:

perhaps the bolt in my puller is not of sufficient length (approx 2.5 inches, with threads 3/4 of the total length).

Perhaps I need a different bolt?

Click to expand...

I think you are right!

The 2.5 inch bolt length would be OK IF the bolt was fully threaded (I measured the bolt on mine and it is 2.5"), but 3/4 threaded length doesn't seem long enough.

Looking at your picture, it makes more sense now. The bolt gets threaded in and holds the tool, while the nut on the outside (closest to the nut head), presses the tool body against the diaphragm. caveat emptor...where tools are concerned.

Thanks again

Russ