clutch plates
- Thread starter adrian
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Friction plates of unlike material will inherently cause one (the poor lonely unprotected fiber plate) to wear prematurely. I strongly suggest a clutch of like materials. At the very least, find another bronze plate to match your system.
That being said, I am a strong proponent of "It's my bike, I do what I want" way of thinking.
That being said, I am a strong proponent of "It's my bike, I do what I want" way of thinking.
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IF I had a couple of decent used friction plates lying around I knew I would likely never use, I would PM you for your address and ask you to hit my Paypal account a couple bucks to cover the postage.
again, just my 2 cents. I agree that you shouldn't mix different materials with the plates. Thanx to this forum and Jim Comstock, I have found that the MOST IMPORTANT thing in the clutch basket is the overall stack height(not even mentioned in the work shop manuals). As rude as the Norton clutch is, it actually works pretty well for normal street riding. I have tried different lubes, and am currently using H.D. transmission/primary oil. It works great when it heats up, but cold it turns the clutch into an exercise in wrist/forearm body building. Thanx y'all for the info on wheel building. Don
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donmeek said:
So what is the stack height? As mentioned, it is not covered in the manual. Diaphragm spring rests on raised section of pressure plate. The pressure plate O.D teeth are 2mm below those on the clutch basket.
BWOLFIE: I'd like to take you up on that. Could you fire me an email with coordinates. Payment through Paypal okay?
BC
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Gosh am I always the backwards one here i don't measure running timing till dialed in by feel to start then I mark for degrees, and on clutch I mix and match plates till spring just slips in its groove no force at all yet nil slack either. Sweat clutch action every time, then go look up what is should measure in numbers. Having 3 different thicknesses of pressure plates on hand helps a hick like me get away so sloppily.
With the clutch pack in place along with the pressure plate and the diaphram, measure the distance from the top of the pack to the bottom edge of the snap ring groove. A good target is .030 to .050. If you get around .120 and beyond, the clutch will be hard to pull.
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Measuring 0.08 from the top OD edge of the diaphragm to the lower edge circlip groove. Looks like a real dogs breakfast of clutch parts: an early back plate (with the 2 rivets), 3 bronze plates, one fibre, late pressure plate (0.227").
Looks like my best option at this point is to assemble it, try it out and see if it works.
Looks like my best option at this point is to assemble it, try it out and see if it works.
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