Clutch Drum Sorting

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Whilst sorting drum alignment with primary drive i found within the gearbox input shaft (below pic) a bit... I prysed it out of the recess in the shaft and took pic.. I cant find its identification on my Ol'brit schematics, so im lost ATM.... It was virtually flush with the OD of the shaft and almost invisable.. Only when trying to home a spacer did i see it... It feel like spring steel as a circlip, but was thinking it was of those circlips that is round as per an oring. (poor description i know)
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Clutch Drum Sorting


I am using the spacer on the left to space (0.172 thick) out the clutch drum with that recess toward the gearbox..... Is that correct?????? On initially alignment between 2 drive sprockets there was about 2mm or so miss alignment requiring the drum to be pushed out.. I seem to be missing the 2 shim/spacer called for and that is being taken into account.... (final assembly)

The second washer/spacer with the rounded shoulder fits perfectly on the gearbox shaft but i cannot yet find a suitable home for it in that area.. It is 0.124 thick and that would align the sprockets very closely if fitted behind clutch drum!!!! But why the rounded shoulder????



Clutch Drum Sorting
 
The spacer on the left is the correct par. The one on the right is a camshaft thrust washer part number 06-1084. There are shims behind the clutch drum as required in thicknesses .036" and .048" used to align the drum to the front engine sprocket.
 
DBowden said:
Group 10 #53 06 0752

Ok so circlip #53 hold the cupped washer #54 in place........... which means 54 it does not "bare down"" onto the gearbox shaft housing.. Is that correct ???
 
illf8ed said:
The spacer on the left is the correct par. The one on the right is a camshaft thrust washer part number 06-1084. There are shims behind the clutch drum as required in thicknesses .036" and .048" used to align the drum to the front engine sprocket.

Cam spacer !!!! thats scarey... Just as well its in the plan to strip the motor..
 
Time Warp said:
Are you doing the reassembly by braille ?
Manuals are cheap and they are online for download (PDF)

This guy has great quality reproductions if you were in the market for one.

http://stores.ebay.com.au/e-ClassicBike ... d=28787106

:D :D :D :D Yeeeah i know, im asking the same question that have been asked a hundred times before, but i promise that i will only ask them once.. Oh and the manual is "in the post". Yes i have a PDF but forget to use it...
 
All the clutch nut clamping only bares down on the wimpy locator circlip you found by accident. There's a slighty heavier duty circlip version but I don't have a part number. Clutch shims, if needed go on face of the relieved spacer to line up drive pulleys. If clutch too tight, going by listed torque it can overwhelm circlip, if too loose comes off away from home. Generally just shim so basket don't rub inner case gets it close enough for chain life but two carpenter squares butted on the pulley faces can guide the best.
 
I'd recommend using a bellville washer instead of the tab washer #58 on the clutch hub. I think I even used one on the rotor.
Clutch Drum Sorting
 
olChris said:
Time Warp said:
Are you doing the reassembly by braille ?
Manuals are cheap and they are online for download (PDF)

This guy has great quality reproductions if you were in the market for one.

http://stores.ebay.com.au/e-ClassicBike ... d=28787106

:D :D :D :D Yeeeah i know, im asking the same question that have been asked a hundred times before, but i promise that i will only ask them once.. Oh and the manual is "in the post". Yes i have a PDF but forget to use it...

Its all good,don't forget to ask about the actual torque setting for the clutch nut. :wink:

clutch-basket-movement-t5973.html
 
Seem like a good place to put 2 locking nuts (not nyloc) to ensure the basket does not put to much pressure on the "whimpy" circlip and can stay true to primary drive cog..
 
Snorton74 said:
I'd recommend using a bellville washer instead of the tab washer #58 on the clutch hub. I think I even used one on the rotor.


A "bellville" washer,, you might have to translate that from merican to colonial for me .. thats a new one.....
 
olChris said:
Snorton74 said:
I'd recommend using a bellville washer instead of the tab washer #58 on the clutch hub. I think I even used one on the rotor.


A "bellville" washer,, you might have to translate that from merican to colonial for me .. thats a new one.....

A Belleville washer is a cupped washer normally from some form of spring steel that flattens on compression.

Clutch Drum Sorting
 
hobot said:
All the clutch nut clamping only bares down on the wimpy locator circlip you found by accident. There's a slighty heavier duty circlip version but I don't have a part number. Clutch shims, if needed go on face of the relieved spacer to line up drive pulleys. If clutch too tight, going by listed torque it can overwhelm circlip, if too loose comes off away from home. Generally just shim so basket don't rub inner case gets it close enough for chain life but two carpenter squares butted on the pulley faces can guide the best.

I've only found a problem with the circlip if it's re-used. New one on assembly, loctite and 70lbft torque. Before I had a suitable torque wrench the nut would come loose at sustained high speed. Increasing the torque from 50lbft to 70lbft cured this. To align sprockets, as per Mick Hemmings. Straight edge across clutch drum circumference and measure distance to teeth. With straight edge projecting across engine sprocket measure to teeth - difference is adjusted with shims behind clutch hub.
 
Snorton74 said:
I'd recommend using a bellville washer instead of the tab washer #58 on the clutch hub.
Clutch Drum Sorting

Although, it should be noted that the thick "washer" used '68 - '72 (shown in the diagram, part [58]) is type E6266/040374, intended for use with the unhardened "4-fibre plate clutch" centres.

http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/Norton% ... &Plate=008

The "tab" washer is intended for use with the hardened "5-bronze plate" 063979 clutch centre (fitted from eng. 212278, late '72-on) and is part 063459.

The "tab washer" arrangement also uses additional washer 063447.
http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/Norton% ... &Plate=010

clutch-center-bewilderment-t14400.html
 
clutch-center-bewilderment-t14400.html +1 .. It just get more interesting as i go along.

Those gap in the spline that ive pointed to, is that normal cos i can rotate each way and would be at least 2mm slop... Having read the enclosed thread in reference to hard and soft steel centre's, i wonder if this centre is soft and is "flogged out" and need replacing,, ?????

Clutch Drum Sorting

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With new hub and mainshaft splines in good condition there should be zero play. Need to replace one or both items.
 
I would say that clutch center is about toasted. The center should ride tight on the mainshaft with NO movement or space between the splines.

I feel that more than 3/4 of the job of replacing the mainshaft is dis-assembly of the primary side. You are already there. Something to think about. Mainshafts are reasonable priced at RGM and sleeve bushes are not very expensive either. If you do not want to mess with the sleeve gear, that is you option, for the mainshaft will slide right out without having to pull the inner primary off or removing the sprocket. I hope you're not getting a headache now.

My center is fairly new but I still had some appreciable wobble. I change the mainshaft and it rides solid. This is also due to the bush and shaft wear under the sleeve gear.

This shaft shows some wear but is a little hard to make out and the fit of the center on the new one is like night and day difference.
Clutch Drum Sorting
 
I have the replacement clips and beleville washers available.
The clip is a bit fiddly to get installed, but offers a positive engagement of the entire shaft.
I also have belevile washers for the alternator.

$5 each shipped.

Clutch Drum Sorting

Clutch Drum Sorting

Clutch Drum Sorting
 
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