Clurch Plates Frozen

Status
Not open for further replies.
MarshalNorton

MarshalNorton

Joined
Jan 30, 2009
Messages
591
Country flag
Hello Forum,
I got my 1972 Norton Commando running today. It's been sitting for about 5 years.
It has the original clutch I believe as the bike only has 11,000 miles.
I can not for the life of me get the clutch plates to separate when I pull the clutch lever in.
I tried to rock it in 1st and then all other gears. This had worked successfully in the past when I rode it more frequently. It will not budge! I started the bike and reeved it up and tried to drop it in gear but the bike stalled.
I'm afraid of breaking something trying this too often. It is such a hard shock to the drive train.
I drained the primary as I found it over filled with gear oil which had seeped into the primary.
I am out of ideas.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Marshal
 
You need to pull the clutch basket apart and clean the plates, its what happens when GB oil gets into your clutch, GB oil and clutch plates don't go hand in hand, your plates all need a good clean and all maintenance needs to be done on everything if the bike has been sitting for a long time, if GB oil got into your clutch could mean your GB is over filled, so you need to pull your clutch apart and should be done as part of any maintenance, I do my clutch yearly whether it needs it or not, its all part of maintenance, after 46 years I am still running the same clutch plates that came from the factory.
Its also a good time to inspect everything inside your primary from chain to ALT and rotor, your primary should have no more than 7fl ozs of oil inside, also run ATF-F for your primary oil.
But what ever you do you have to go inside to and clean everything in your clutch and primary case, its not a hard job but you will need a clutch compressor tool.
If you want a reliable Norton you got to do the maintenance when due and if sitting for a long time you need to go over the whole bike not just your clutch.

Ashley
 
Thank you, I was dreading tearing the primary cover off and pulling the clutch basket.
But I guess I got to do what I gotta do.
Thanks,
Marshal
 
Welcome back Adam! Taking it apart would be the preferred method. I once had this happen to my G80CS and I cheated by filling the chaincase halfway with kerosene. It worked. Then I drained and refilled with fresh oil a couple times. If you want to take it apart I have all the tools and can give you a hand.
Russ
 
MarshalNorton said:
Thank you, I was dreading tearing the primary cover off and pulling the clutch basket.
But I guess I got to do what I gotta do.
Thanks,
Marshal
Click to expand...
Its not a hard job, might take some time the first time around but once you have gone inside it gets easier every time and as I say its good to check everything inside your primary, check the condition of your chain and clutch centre, its easy to make a clutch compressor tool, and its also a good way to learn all about your Norton and how it all works and when you put the primary cover back on don't over tighten the cover nut, also be a good time to replace the rubber seal for the cover.
I was like you the first time I had to go inside my primary, but really after I did I thought, that was so easy.

Ashley
 
Ashley is correct on it being a simple job. Mine sat 38 years and was an unholy sight when I cleaned it out upon resurrection. Now it's annual cleaning and fresh oil.
 
I was told this by an old hand...

Drain the primary oil and re-fill with Diesel engine oil.

Run it for a while and due to the high detergents in diesel engine oil, it’ll clean the clutch plates.

It’ll also probably make the clutch slip up under hard power, which also helps to clean them, but shows it’s not good to leave in there.

Drain and refill with your chosen stuff.
 
Its always a good idea to open the primary case up every maintenance time to check if everything inside is all good, even if you run a belt drive.
 
This morning I ordered a clutch spring compressor tool, new primary O-ring gasket and a set of Barnett combo friction and steel plates. This is a full set. 4/3 for a 750cc.
I was reading on the Old Britt's site where Fred changed his clutch pack out at 12k. I have 11k now so since I'll be taking them out I might as well do it right. I don't know how bad the originals are a they have never been stuck like this before and I have owned this bike since 2004.
They may be rusted together for all I know and I do not want to make a mountain out of a mole hill for this repair. The time spent on cleaning and playing with the old set, I could have the new one's installed and be back at it. Thank you everyone for your knowledgeable responses.
Marshal
 
MarshalNorton said:
This morning I ordered a clutch spring compressor tool, new primary O-ring gasket and a set of Barnett combo friction and steel plates. This is a full set. 4/3 for a 750cc.
I was reading on the Old Britt's site where Fred changed his clutch pack out at 12k. I have 11k now so since I'll be taking them out I might as well do it right. I don't know how bad the originals are a they have never been stuck like this before and I have owned this bike since 2004.
They may be rusted together for all I know and I do not want to make a mountain out of a mole hill for this repair. The time spent on cleaning and playing with the old set, I could have the new one's installed and be back at it. Thank you everyone for your knowledgeable responses.
Marshal
Click to expand...
All in one go. Good plan.
 
MarshalNorton said:
This morning I ordered a clutch spring compressor tool, new primary O-ring gasket and a set of Barnett combo friction and steel plates. This is a full set. 4/3 for a 750cc.
I was reading on the Old Britt's site where Fred changed his clutch pack out at 12k. I have 11k now so since I'll be taking them out I might as well do it right. I don't know how bad the originals are a they have never been stuck like this before and I have owned this bike since 2004.
They may be rusted together for all I know and I do not want to make a mountain out of a mole hill for this repair. The time spent on cleaning and playing with the old set, I could have the new one's installed and be back at it. Thank you everyone for your knowledgeable responses.
Marshal
Click to expand...
Don't throw out those old fiber plates (if they are still in there), they are the easiest plates on your clutch hub. Mine are nearly 50 years old and still working fine with the original clutch hub to boot.

Buy a Dyno Dave clutch push rod seal - keep as much tranny oil out of the clutch as possible.

Not well known, but in the vein of keeping as much primary oil out of the clutch as possible, I replace the clutch basket bearing with a fully sealed one (6008-2RS).

Dry assemble your clutch and check the height of the diaphragm spring when fully installed. Easy clutch pull occurs when the spring is about 0.030-0.060" over-center (convex) (difference in diaphragm spring height measured at the edge by the retaining clip and the central hub that holds the adjusting screw, center should sit higher than periphery) . Adjust your clutch stack accordingly to achieve this (extra steel plate, swap a Barnet for a fiber plate, etc.)

Use a good quality clutch cable and lube it regularly.

I use a smear of Permatex MotoSeal in addition to the stock seal on the primary cover - never leaks a drop.

Use about 140-150 cc of your lube of choice in the primary. I prefer ATF.

And finally, be prepared to pull and wash your clutch plates 1-2 times per riding season, depending on how much you ride your bike.

Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
Can I learn about the Dyno Dave seal please.
I remember talk about it years ago but as you can see by my previous postings, I have been away from it for awhile.
TIA,
Marshal
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top