clicking noise when compressing the front forks...what up?

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Commando74

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Jan 4, 2007
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howdy gents....
picture this.....sitting on the bike with the front brake held, when I rock back and forth on the forks, compressing and decomp'ing there a clicking noise that seems to be coming from the one of the lower forks...I could be wrong about the location, but it definitely has a clicking coming from somewhere up front. any ideas?
thanks,
Eric
 
Welcome Commando 74,

Does it click on the rock forward or rock back, it could be bottoming or topping out, Norbsa makes a conversion kit that apparently works a treat, there is more info on earlier posts.

Mike.
 
On my '71 with TLS this would be the boss on the side of the brake hub clicking against the slot on the inside of the fork. ( i.e. the bits that take the braking torque)
TPO fitted a bit of shim to take the slack, but I've left that out.
 
Commando74,

Have your forks been fitted with the 'Covenant' damper conversion kit?
 
Had a similar problem with one of mine. I have a Grimeca TLS fitted as a conversion to stock commando drum front and after a while had same prob. Turned out to be dry clevis pin on brake arm. If your running drum front might be worth checking. Regards Hursty.
 
If your bike is a 74 and fitted with a disc brake, it could be as simple as the brake pads rattling. After extensive use, the slot for the pad tabs can become enlarged. Is it a click or a clunk ?
 
My forks have the Covenant damper kit in them and the floating damper sleeves do make a light clicking noise.
 
the sound appears to be coming from...........

the top of the left side upper fork tube. I had my guy do an upgrade that slightly lengthened the travel to keep the topping and bottoming out from happening....the upgrade increased the length of travel about an inch...but the sound seems to be a clicking at the top like the spring under compression gives somewhere. it occurs as mentioned when the brakes are held (i am running standard front disk) and then pushing down on the forks....at the top or beginning of the push it clicks....does not happen on the right side. any thoughts?
Eric
 
When you do a kit that gives travel you must provide a spring for that new travel and you must have hardened washers in between the old springs and the new.
 
norbsa48503 said:
When you do a kit that gives travel you must provide a spring for that new travel and you must have hardened washers in between the old springs and the new.
Click to expand...

maybe I am being dense here, but as I have seen it, the lengthening is added to the top of the spring, above the upper nut and below (inside the upper fork tube) the big nut holding the tube onto the upper yoke. unless, i am missing something, i am not aware of any other piece added.
Eric
 
Covenant damper kit

What is a Covenant damper kit?
Where do you buy them?

Regards,

Jerry
 
Commando 74, This is what's happening to make the sliders move more than 4 1/2 inches you have to extend or make new longer rods. You also can't be running a Covennet kit because the alum bushing stops having more travel. If you have more travel than stock you have to make up the preload on the springs with a spacer or a new spring. If you do it with a spacer you could end up coil binding the springs not good.
I do not sell or think much of the Covennant kit it doesn't work for me.
 
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