Clear wiring schematics

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Old Bloke

Old Bloke

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Feb 14, 2013
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Sigh, too cold for the garage. Thought I'd try something constructive and sketch out the plan for my rebuild, might be useful for anyone with similar ideas :) I'm a simple beast, and the Norton wiring diagrams never did it for me. It's work in progress so if you see any mistakes speak up pls!

Negative Earth.
Single phase alternator
Boyer Powerbox with charging light control.
Boyer ignition unit (old Norton type mk3).
RGM dual o/p coil.
Twin relays in headlamp shell for hi/lo beam.
No indicators.
I'll be running a return wire through the loom instead of using the frame for the earths.

Clear wiring schematics


Hope it's of interest, better than sat in a cold damp garage anyway!

Peter
 
That looks like a lot of work you seem to be familiar with that stuff.When I rewired my project I followed the basic plans provided in Brit Cycle catalog... Have you seen those drawings?
Craig
 
Hi, Not sure I've seen the drawings you mentioned, are they online somewhere?

I suppose I'm fairly familiar with the wiring on my own bike. When it's apart this time, I'm adding the Boyer power box and dual o/p coil, and the headlamp relays, so it's much a case of building on what was there before stripdown. :)
 
A couple of observations...

I notice you have 'Parking lights' as a switch position? As drawn, if you intend to use Ign./Sw. T4 for the lighting feed [Y] instead of T3 then you will have no parking light/s.

No pilot/parking light bulb?
No horn relay?
 
L.A.B. said:
A couple of observations...

I notice you have 'Parking lights' as a switch position? As drawn, if you intend to use Ign./Sw. T4 for the lighting feed [Y] instead of T3 then you will have no parking light/s.

No pilot/parking light bulb?
No horn relay?
Click to expand...

Good points sir.

You are right, I've never used parking lights, so I've no wiring/bulbs for that. I'd marked it as a position on the switch for completeness. I take your point though, and I can see the lack of park lights may be a safety issue if caught out at night. Maybe I should rectify that.

No horn relay, as it's always seemed to be pretty good without. The Headlamp relays are hopefully a worthwhile upgrade.
 
Thanks Old Bloke that diagram is one I can actually understand :D . When I pull my finger out and finally crack on with my MK3 rebuild I will either buy a loom or rewire it myself probably using your instructions.
I see you are using 12v neons for the instrument lights, are they the same as an led? I have machined up new lenses to accept multi-colour led's before finding out if they actually work on neg earth!! so my question is - do led's work with neg earth? does it matter? (my electrical knowledge is basic)

Cheers
CB
 
Cheshire bloke said:
I see you are using 12v neons for the instrument lights, are they the same as an led? I have machined up new lenses to accept multi-colour led's before finding out if they actually work on neg earth!! so my question is - do led's work with neg earth? does it matter? (my electrical knowledge is basic)
Click to expand...


http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyleds.htm
 
Cheers LAB very interesting link, those self contained led warning lights look just the job, I might have to remachine my lenses to suit though.



CB
 
Hi OldBloke.....If you download British Cycle Supply catalog you will see on page 23 or 24 simplified diagram for electronic ign. and power controller. So yes you can look at these on internet
Craig
 
Cheshire bloke said:
I see you are using 12v neons for the instrument lights, are they the same as an led? I have machined up new lenses to accept multi-colour led's before finding out if they actually work on neg earth!! so my question is - do led's work with neg earth? does it matter? (my electrical knowledge is basic)

Cheers
CB
Click to expand...

You picked up on my mistake CB, Calling the bulbs "neons" is wrong :oops:

LABS link http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyleds.htm has some nice looking LEDS packaged in standard bulb housings, very useful. With respect to using LEDS in place of bulbs, they can be used in most circumstances on the Norton, with maybe a couple of exceptions. I believe if you use them for Indicators, you'd need a new flasher unit designed for LEDS, and if using the original Warning light assimilator unit, I suspect a LED would not work here.
Generally, LEDS are polarity sensitive and have to be connected accordingly, but they will work on +ve and -ve earth systems. Having said that, as they work with an series resistor to limit current, connecting them wrongly does not harm them, and they just need the wires swapped around to get them working. fyi, for the speedo/tacho lighting I will be using a couple of these, which are cheap, (and you can pick your colour of backlighting you want). 12v white 5mm ones are about £2.50 for 5 already wired with 30mm approx flying leads.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pre-wired...mponents_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item92b2039b04
P
 
Craig said:
Hi OldBloke.....If you download British Cycle Supply catalog you will see on page 23 or 24 simplified diagram for electronic ign. and power controller. So yes you can look at these on internet
Craig
Click to expand...

Got them now thanks Craig :D
 
What year is this for ? My 72 Commando Combat Interstate is Pos. earth not Neg. could be a small problem
 
dlp750 said:
What year is this for ? My 72 Commando Combat Interstate is Pos. earth not Neg. could be a small problem
Click to expand...

All Commandos were positive earth originally, however many owners prefer a negative earth electrical system. Converting to negative earth is a reasonably popular modification nowadays.
 
Yes was positive earth as standard commando. Here's how my 73 roadster used to be wired.
Clear wiring schematics
 
I like Old Bloke's use of relays for lights.

My own wiring harness is in an ongoing evolutionary process. But, I also have a Kawasaki, and there is a Mikuni carb guru called WiredGeorge who advocates the use of a relay in the ignition circuit. The objective is to get full power to the coils and not have losses through old switches, etc. I have installed that mod on my Commando as well as my KZ. I can't objectively prove its value, but my Commando with Boyer Mk 3 starts first kick pretty much every time.

If you're building a new wiring harness from scratch it is something to consider doing. Below (I hope) is the schematic and a link to WG's article about it, which is geared towards Kawasaki KZs but just as relevant to any old bike. You just have to modify slightly (i.e. no starter relay, so come straight from the battery terminal, swap your earth polarity as appropriate for your bike, etc.)

Clear wiring schematics


http://www.wgcarbs.com//index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=Itemid=89

:idea:
 
Corona850 said:
I like Old Bloke's use of relays for lights.

My own wiring harness is in an ongoing evolutionary process. But, I also have a Kawasaki, and there is a Mikuni carb guru called WiredGeorge who advocates the use of a relay in the ignition circuit. The objective is to get full power to the coils and not have losses through old switches, etc. I have installed that mod on my Commando as well as my KZ. I can't objectively prove its value, but my Commando with Boyer Mk 3 starts first kick pretty much every time.

If you're building a new wiring harness from scratch it is something to consider doing. Below (I hope) is the schematic and a link to WG's article about it, which is geared towards Kawasaki KZs but just as relevant to any old bike. You just have to modify slightly (i.e. no starter relay, so come straight from the battery terminal, swap your earth polarity as appropriate for your bike, etc.)

Clear wiring schematics


http://www.wgcarbs.com//index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=Itemid=89

:idea:
Click to expand...
I did consider the use of a relay for the ignition circuit, but dismissed it. As you say the reason would be to mitigate losses in the crap original Norton ignition switch. In my case, I have fitted a modern replacement 3 position switch, which I think is rated at 10amps per contact, and will provide ample current for the Boyer ignition unit. If you look at my schematic, the ignition circuit (W-white wire) does not supply much more than the Boyer. Other current draw would be when the brake light was on, or horn pressed. It's only my opinion, but the extra wiring/components were not worth the effort. If you have an old ignition switch, dodgy old wire, then it's a different matter.
Can't claim the Headlamp relays to be my idea of course, it's a common mod. works well because you can stick the relays in the headlamp shell
and contain the extra wiring there.
 
Ignition current is too low to bother to relay but for electronics might consider putting in a 5 amp rated stereo power filter to keep the sonic [ ~100 to 20000 hz alternator beats] freq out of its brain box better than megaHz radio Frq coil suppression by HT lead R factor. There are 1/2 size 20 & 30 amp relays that make life less crowed under light shell or other places.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_003S10A/Am ... S-10A.html
 
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