Cleaning gas tank cap with metal rescue

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kevbo82

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So i've used metal rescue a few times now (including cleaning surface rust from the inside of my oil tank) and considering you can keep reusing it, i would say $20 well spent. It got me thinking, why drill out and disassemble my gas tank cap to clean the vent, this stuff claims to harm nothing but rust.
Cleaning gas tank cap with metal rescue


Here's what it looked like before
Cleaning gas tank cap with metal rescue


after a two hour soak
Cleaning gas tank cap with metal rescue


Finally after four hours, and a rinse with water
Cleaning gas tank cap with metal rescue


I would think good for this job because it can get into the vent holes and clean things out. Claims to be safe on rubbers, plastics, paints, and non toxic so you can just dump it down your drain. Cheapest place i found it online was summit, because everyone else wanted to charge me $20+ for hazmat shipping
 
I've got the same problem. That looks like it worked well. Did you immerse the whole cap, or just brush it on the rusty part?
Jaydee
 
I got something similar from Tractor Supply called Evapo-Rust. It was about $20/Gal. I used it on some things on the tractor, I guess it worked, but the stuff I had was heavily rusted, the rust turned black and I think I brushed it off with a steel brush and painted it. I never tried it on lightly rusted items like your cap, so I can't say.

Dave
69S
 
Your rubber gasket on the cap is hurtin'. It has been a while since I purchased one but they are out there. It can be worked in between the plates without replacing the rivet as I remember. There is also a rubber sleeve on the shaft which can be replaced if you drill out the rivet. It is easy to retap the hole for a small machine screw. Will check my supplies and see if I have another gasket.
 
batrider said:
Your rubber gasket on the cap is hurtin'. It has been a while since I purchased one but they are out there. It can be worked in between the plates without replacing the rivet as I remember. There is also a rubber sleeve on the shaft which can be replaced if you drill out the rivet. It is easy to retap the hole for a small machine screw. Will check my supplies and see if I have another gasket.
Click to expand...
yeah i just looked it up this morning on old britts and they have them for like $1 or so. next order. it wasn't working at all when i started because my dad used kreem on the tank, must have turned it upside down to coat the top half and had the whole cap covered. I would walk into the garage at night and hear the cap squeaking trying to vent
 
jaydee75 said:
I've got the same problem. That looks like it worked well. Did you immerse the whole cap, or just brush it on the rusty part?
Jaydee
Click to expand...
immersed the whole thing. it's in the bath in the 2nd photo.
 
I bought 2 gallons after watching and talking to the guys displaying it at Barber all weekend. Some tips I gathered are a big plastic tub with a lid so it doesn't evaporate. Temperature needs to be above 70F for it to work. Rotate parts every half hour or hour, leaving them stagnent slows the process and starts turning black on surface. Don't leave overnight or parts turn black. I filter it through an old T shirt at the end of the day as it removes a lot of rust. I've cleaned a heavily rusted tank that needs patch work and it made the job a whole lot easier.
 
edgefinder said:
I bought 2 gallons after watching and talking to the guys displaying it at Barber all weekend. Some tips I gathered are a big plastic tub with a lid so it doesn't evaporate. Temperature needs to be above 70F for it to work. Rotate parts every half hour or hour, leaving them stagnent slows the process and starts turning black on surface. Don't leave overnight or parts turn black. I filter it through an old T shirt at the end of the day as it removes a lot of rust. I've cleaned a heavily rusted tank that needs patch work and it made the job a whole lot easier.
Click to expand...
yeah i think the temp is the big thing. I saw a lot of reviews online saying it was "junk and didn't work" and they were doing it in a freezing garage. I put a space heater in a small room where i did it and got it up around 100F and kept checking every hour to make sure nothing was turning black. I had surface rust on the inside of my oil tank which is why i really bought it, and it did a fantastic job with that.
 
kevbo82 said:
edgefinder said:
I bought 2 gallons after watching and talking to the guys displaying it at Barber all weekend. Some tips I gathered are a big plastic tub with a lid so it doesn't evaporate. Temperature needs to be above 70F for it to work. Rotate parts every half hour or hour, leaving them stagnent slows the process and starts turning black on surface. Don't leave overnight or parts turn black. I filter it through an old T shirt at the end of the day as it removes a lot of rust. I've cleaned a heavily rusted tank that needs patch work and it made the job a whole lot easier.
Click to expand...
yeah i think the temp is the big thing. I saw a lot of reviews online saying it was "junk and didn't work" and they were doing it in a freezing garage. I put a space heater in a small room where i did it and got it up around 100F and kept checking every hour to make sure nothing was turning black. I had surface rust on the inside of my oil tank which is why i really bought it, and it did a fantastic job with that.
Click to expand...

We're glad to see our product has worked so well for you, if you have any other questions regarding Metal Rescue ™, rust removal, or rust prevention please do not hesitate to ask.
 
I put the smaller ferrous parts into a ziplock freezer bag along with enough liquid to cover and place that on a piece of black painted scrap aluminum sheet and leave the whole kaboodle exposed to the bright sun in the gravel driveway. I use a diluted phosphoric acid solution though, never the product you have tried.
This is partly a preparation for paint, not meant to be left uncoated. But the sloar heat part is what I meant to share.
All the best.
 
Regarding the temperature, our product should be kept warm when de-rusting; we have had some users who have microwaved our product before pouring into the container that they were submerging the part or parts in. As long as the product isn't brought to a boil it is fine to heat up, just keep in mind evaporation as it is a water based product.
 
I noticed that when using Evaporust in an ultrasonic cleaner that it really worked much better when the ultrasonic cleaner heated it up above 150 F.
One heated it did not need the ultrasonic cleaner on to remove rust.
 
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