Cleaning clutch plates

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danfr

danfr

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Hey all,

I've read a lot of threads about cleaning the clutch plates, but I can't find this answer: When cleaning the clutch plates, am I cleaning the fibre and the steel plates or just the steel plates? My bike hasn't run in years and the clutch didn't want to disengage the engine. I pulled apart the clutch and have deglazed and cleaned the steel plates, but am unsure of the fibre ones.

Cheers
Dan
 
Steel wash wit kerosene gas or brake cleaner Do not sand blast to deglaze, use 400 grit jitterbug sander.
fiber plates use brake or carb cleaner spray or dip in liquid, air blow off. Then put a clutch rod seal if contaminated with gear oil @ walridge or BCS
 
I'd use standard de-greaser gunky liquid on any gummed up stuck plates. I like the citrus based one because it smells lemony . I'd do the wash outdoors , with plastic gloves .
That said I've never had stuck plates.
I've had the clutch center develop notches from plates digging in on the release . This can freeze up a clutch if serious slots develop. So since you are in there , check that.
The 850 sintered bronze plates seem to be the worst for that biting in , but how you drive and release the clutch lever is important too.
I've just fitted a CNW hardened center and am anxious to try it when the ice melts. Barnett fibre plates seem to work best for me.
Regular oil changes in the primary helps stop dirt and gum build ups.
Have fun washing.
 
Not a Norton expert; however, last year, I used Acetone and a rag to clean *all* of the clutch plates in my 850 which really improved shifting. YMMV.

Anecdotal, 2nd hand info here. My good friend had a Barnett clutch installed in his 750 Commando. It locked up after sitting for a period of time and would not disengage. He zip-tied the clutch lever to the bar and left it for a few days during which it finally freed up.

Edit: I also installed the clutch rod seal mentioned above. Superb!
 
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998cc said:
Not a Norton expert; however, last year, I used Acetone and a rag to clean *all* of the clutch plates in my 850 which really improved shifting. YMMV.

Anecdotal, 2nd hand info here. My good friend had a Barnett clutch installed in his 750 Commando. It locked up after sitting for a period of time and would not disengage.
Click to expand...

Barnett plates are intended to run in oil. They will lock up when left idle. With oil, a few kicks will free them up. When assembled dry ..... good luck!

On the plus side, Barnett plates will transmit the torque of my Atlas with one turn less on the clamp force nuts. This, plus a Venhill Teflon clutch cable, and ATF in the primary, turns the Atlas bear of a clutch into a manageable bear.

Slick
 
Right or wrong, I’ve always used petrol (gasoline) to clean the fibre plates. Worth checking their thickness. Should be .145 inch. If much thinner than this just replace them in my opinion. The thinner the plates the heavier the clutch. If You haven’t already done so change one of the .080 metal plates with .120 for a much lighter clutch. See Dynodaves site for the science.
 
texasSlick said:
Barnett plates are intended to run in oil. They will lock up when left idle. With oil, a few kicks will free them up. When assembled dry ..... good luck!

On the plus side, Barnett plates will transmit the torque of my Atlas with one turn less on the clamp force nuts. This, plus a Venhill Teflon clutch cable, and ATF in the primary, turns the Atlas bear of a clutch into a manageable bear.

Slick
Click to expand...
See Steve C post for guidance on Atlas clutch !!!
 
dynodave said:
Steel wash wit kerosene gas or brake cleaner Do not sand blast to deglaze, use 400 grit jitterbug sander.
fiber plates use brake or carb cleaner spray or dip in liquid, air blow off. Then put a clutch rod seal if contaminated with gear oil @ walridge or BCS
Click to expand...
I have heard this before about not sand blasting the plates, why is this?
 
WAY to aggressive. turns your steel plates into "sandpaper"
fine 400 grit jitterbug just gets rid of spot glaze and helps to observe if warped
 
Leonc said:
I have heard this before about not sand blasting the plates, why is this?
Click to expand...
Why do people still use the term "Sand Blasting " in this day and age ? Fine for old buildings.
I went to an auto jumble swap 40 years or so back and found an 850 head , sandblasted hard and not worth a cent.
A shame. Nobody used Soda or Vapour blasting back then or walnut shell or any of the modern processes.
 
Torontonian said:
Why do people still use the term "Sand Blasting " in this day and age ?
Click to expand...
Same people probably say "sandpaper" instead of "glasspaper"
If any of us asked for sandpaper in our woodwork lessons at school we'd get a slap with a rule.
However, I reckon the whole of humanity still refer to it as sandpaper.
 
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Was doing this job at an acquaintance's place. He had several Nortons and BSA's in the garage. I was instructed to use oven cleaner on my sticking 850 plates. The Sodium Hydroxide in oven cleaner and drain cleaners basically converts oils, grease, fats to soap. Seemed to work quite well! But he didn't offer me any gloves so my fingernails were brown for weeks.
 
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