Cleaning cables & soldering nipples

I need to shorten an inner throtle cable & not having much success. The solder won't take when I reposition the nipple.

The cable is new but appears to have an oily deposits on it. What should I use to clean this off without leaving a residue from the cleaner?

What type of solder should I use, electronic / plumbers / other etc?

Thanks

There was a thread on this quite a while ago. Search is your friend. As I remember there are special rosins and solder to use on different kinds of cables, some are steel and some are stainless, but there's plenty of oil in the cables and they need to be clean. Then you probably really need a solder pot. I was tempted to get it together, but so far my cables are working fine, but given all the troubles people have with cable lengths, it would be real handy to make your own. I know Walridge sells all kinds of ends. I brazed an end on once, but it hardened the cable strands and it didn't last long.

Dave
69S

DogT is right about some cables being stainless, in which case ordinary solder will not take. Check it with a magnet. If it isn't magnetic, it's stainless. If it is magnetic, degrease thoroughly with a solvent like Brake Clean, dip the cable end in a flux paste and get a roll of cored solder a few millimetres thick. I found that those big bars of plumbers solder are not that good. If the solder won't take first time, wipe with a clean rag, dip in solvent, wipe again, dip in flux and try again. Eventually, it should bond with the steel. Enough heat is important to melt the solder sufficiently to let it flow but don't overheat the cable.

For sure don't get the cable strands red hot. Do a google search on making cables and you'll find lots of info. Like I say a solder pot will really help, they're not expensive and it's best if you can flare the end strands so they hold in the fitting better.

Dave
69S

http://www.flanderscables.com/index.html


Good luck, Pouchy750

Plumbers . theres soft 50 / 50 & hard 60 / 40 .

All the ends of the strands should be turned back , so THEY locate in the cavity . The solder just positions them .

A first class side cutters a bit of use , bend em 1/2 in down , reverse flat against the core , THEN trim to a even 5 / 32 or as regd .
Should be just a dome of solder clear over the top / end , when finished .

Sounds like a bit of practise beforehand wouldnt be amiss . A Plumbers ( Grunty ) soldering iron , or a wee propane torch .
Practise on bits of bean can or the like , TINNING ( pre plateing before joining ) Acid line is limit of adhesion , so dont overdo the flux , dimensionally .

IF you dont get the solder ' creeping back ' up the core , ( gravity ) Hards best .Buttle kink it if wrong .

Steel ferrules for alum levers , brass for steel levers . preferably the ones that slip on the nipples .

Bakeing Soda / solution to neutralise acid . Bakers fluid / Duzzall Flux .Phospheric acid based ??

AND set THE THROTTLE so that theres just freeplay ( 4 microns ) W F O .
A half inch to go when the slides hit top and youll do a Mert Lawill & break the cable at the teth lap when way out in front . :lol: :shock:

You need an acid flux for stainless cable. Degrease before fluxing and neutralize after soldering. Splay the strands before you solder. It's the splayed strands, held apart by the solder, wedged in the ferrell that bears the load. If the cable is just soldered to the ferrell it will pull right through.
Stainless cable used for brakes on older pushbkes is perfect for throttles and chokes. It comes with a big barrel shaped ferrell on one end that is the right size for the twistgrip and the little buttons at the carb end or junction box can be cannibalized from the old cable. Motorcycle shops have them too. The cables have the flexibility of string compared to the stock cable and it's plenty strong, after all it's used for brakes. $7

http://usaknifemaker.com/stay-clean-soldering-flux.html

Overheating is an issue, If the solder sneaks up inside the cable, then the cable becomes stiff where it has to be flexible and will break at that point.

I found this video useful:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... xGTa0SvXjE

I have used a solder pot and some of the cables I made failed because the solder and fitting didn't get hot enough. The BBQ method shown in the video works well. I use a copper plate on an outdoor propane burner. It takes a bit of practice to get the cable hot enough to melt the solder and get good adhesion but not hot enough to weaken the cable. A propane torch is too much heat for cable soldering. You need to use solid solder that is 50/50 lead/tin. This stuff melts at 421F. Don't use the rosin-cored solder. You will also need to clean the cable thoroughly in acetone or using a carb or brake cleaner and then apply a flux paste before applying the solder. As someone else suggested, practice first on an old cable to get your technique down before attempting the final product.

Bit rough , but

lots of good info here and it enabled me to shorten and repair a broken clutch cable, so far so good. Was able to use non lead solid core solder and plumbers flux and it worked OK, and inspired by a youtube video used a 1/2" black iron pipe cap as a makeshift solder pot, heated it with a propane torch and was able to melt the solder that way...worked well and the cap is a good size for the job, was even able to do the fix with the cable on the bike this way (the cap/solderpot was held by visegrips which in turn were held by a jawhorse) FWIW used Park (they make bicycle tools) cable cutters and was able to cut the cable cleanly w/ no fraying
Long ago before I knew better used a torch directly on a BSA clutch cable and got the same result as many, the junction held but the cable quickly failed from being overheated, but the $2 solder pot seems to have done the trick

if all else fails with your soldering iron or soldering gun , try it it with your heat gun.(if you have one) What ever you do try not using a raw flame like propane directly on the cable, perhaps ok for the ferrlue, use the propane to heat something else to use as an iron.
Heat the ferrules or ferrule with the heat gun and 'tin ' both parts before putting together. try and keep excessive direct heat off the cable except for the quick flick to 'tin'
Heat guns are the best for doing very large fellules on battery cables if you ever get really stuck.
Regards Mike

After years of doing what Bluto suggests with the mini solder pot, I stumbled on to these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KLT-350-Solder- ... 4d017d4300

Cheap, easy to use, all that stuff. Local shop has a solder pot that I'm more that welcome to use when I want. Basically an old hot plate. About an eight mile ride, so having one of these is a big help for a quick cable job. Heats up in about five minutes.